DiMora's Steeda Tri-Ax Install for T56 Magnum XL tranny

DiMora

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I picked up a Steeda Tri-Ax for the T56 Magnum XL.

Install was a pain only because the bolts are very hard to get to. A combo of various 1/4 and 3/8 drive ratchets and extensions as well as a 3/8 drive 13MM swivel socket and a 13MM open-end wrench got the job done.

If you are in the driver's seat, the top-left bolt is the worst. The bottom left is a close second.

I like the shifter that came with the T56 Magnum XL...it is quiet, but it is a little bit sloppy. Neutral flops around just a bit. With that said, I haven't missed any shifts, but I did miss the positive click-click action my Roush shifter had on my 3650.

Anyway, on with it. I unbolted the Tremec:

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Comparison:

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Here is the Tri-Ax with some gasket maker ready to install:

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Here it is installed, with what I kept of the dust-boot. You can see I cut the top off entirely, and enlarged the bottom. I also added some gasket maker to make sure dust stays out. In this image, the lip of the boot isn't seated yet, but I fixed that:

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Ready for leather boot, ball, and a test-drive:

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All done. Totally hidden mod:

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Results:

It is much more stiff. There is no slop at all now. On the stock Tremec shifter, I could find neutral by jiggling it a bit...not with this thing. If I want neutral, now I just go into third and pull back one click - that is neutral. The centering springs neutralize it laterally between 4-N-3. To get it into 1 or on the 1-2 shift, you must pull it firmly to the left. The same is true of going into 5 and the 5-6 shift.

Over-riding the reverse lockout manually is VERY difficult now, which makes me happy for safety's sake (I did wire up the solenoid and I have a push-button lockout release).

Throw is shorter. I called Steeda and they said 25% shorter.

The over-extension stops are neat; I can literally THRASH the shifter now and it just goes CLICK-CLICK right into place.

I like it, but the additional spring tension may be total overkill. It takes a LOT of effort as you downshift coming to a stop to get it into first, and the extra effort holding it left on the 1-2 shift is significant. I think it might be perfect if the springs they used were not quite so stiff. I may take it apart and mod them to my liking, but first I'll give it a couple weeks of driving to let it break-in. It may well loosen up a bit; time will tell.

In summary, this mod is un-necessary, as the stock Tremec is just fine (and better than most remote shifters) but I did miss the click-click precision of an aftermarket short shifter, and this Tri-Ax gives me that back.
 

weather man

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You get used to it. I noticed the same thing with a steeda shifter on my tr-6060. I love how it snicks into gear.
 

88_50

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I'm thinking to buy the Tri-Ax as well. Is the tension lightening up a little now that you've drove it awhile?

I bought a used unit that I had Liberty go thru. Its missing the shifter handle/nut/ball combo as well as the crossmember. Finally found a place to buy the crossmember (and yes they are raping me on cost because Tremec has them on National backorder). So now only thing I need to complete the install is to buy a Tri-Ax, or convince one of you guys to sell me your old XL handle, ball, and jam nut ;)
 
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JeremyH

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As a previous triax owner from the old 2v days I must warn you about those stop bolts they put on the shifter. Cool idea indeed, I thought so too when I bought one for my gt back in 2002. Either remove them or locktite them real good as they will vibrate and move over time and can stop you from physically getting all the way into gear and tear up the teeth on the synchro rings in no time. Many many issues back then on the t5 and 3650's with this. They are redundant on the t56 anyway as it has internal limits on the linkage through the tailshaft housing. Just a word of caution for ya.
 
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