DIY the Ultimate 3V Oil Pump

Scott

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Take one Triangle Speed Shop (TSS) 3V/GT500 Oil Pump Assembly with Billet Gears and add a Billet Backing Plate from a 2013 SVT Oil Pump and you have the ultimate 3V pump.

Firstly, I credit Paul, “One Eyed Willy” for the pioneer research on the SVT Oil Pump. Thanks Paul!

Originally 3V oil pump failures were attributed to the gears, as a solution many builds have gone with TSS or MMR billet replacement gears. I purchased a Triangle Speed Shop (TSS) pump with Billet Gears for my build. However, for the 2013 5.8L SVT motors Ford came out with an Oil Pump # DR3Z-6600-A that has a Billet Backing Plate. The Billet Backing Plate weighs in at just less than 12 oz. while the OEM cast plate is a little over 3 oz. (Paul thanks for the measurements!) Obviously the billet backing plate will flex significantly less than a light weight cast plate. Was flex in the OEM cast backing plate the reason the gears grenade? Maybe, but going with both billet gears and a billet backing plate in a built motor is relatively cheap insurance.

This DYI takes you through the simple process of replacing the cast backing plate with a billet backing plate.

Parts:

1. TSS 3V/GT500 Oil Pump Assembly with Billet Gears
2. 2013 Shelby SVT Oil Pump, part number DR3Z-6600-A

Tools and Supplies:

1. T30 Bit
2. 3/8” Ratchet
3. 3/8” Torque Wrench (that measures in in-lbs)
4. High Strength Red Thread Locker
5. Refreshments of you choice

Build:

1. Oil pumps before modification, 2013 SVT Pump on the top and TSS Pump on the bottom – from the back with covers on:



2. Using a T30 Bit and 3/8” Ratchet remove the 8 screws securing the backing plate on both pumps. Billet backing plate from SVT pump on the left and cast backing plate from TSS pump on the right – covers off:



3. TSS Billet Gears exposed. Carefully remove any residue of Thread Locker from the threads and the cap screws:



4. Apply High Strength Thread Locker to the 8 cap screws, place the billet backing plate on the TSS pump, install the screws and tighten to 89 in-lbs with a T30 Bit in a crisscross pattern from the center out.



5. Viola you now have the ultimate 3V oil pump for you build:

 

BadPiggy

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I'm curious.....
What are the differences in oil pumps when it comes to size/fit?

That 2013 SVT pump looks pretty much identical to the other.

Instead of buying 2 pumps...can you not buy the SVT pump and install the billet gear set?

The gear sets are available alone (without buying a complete pump) whereas the SVT backplate is not. Seems like buying a SVT pump and a TSS gear set would be cheaper...but I'm not sure how the SVT pump would work on a 4.6 3V block.

Anyone have input?
 

JeremyH

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I'm curious.....
What are the differences in oil pumps when it comes to size/fit?

That 2013 SVT pump looks pretty much identical to the other.

Instead of buying 2 pumps...can you not buy the SVT pump and install the billet gear set?

The gear sets are available alone (without buying a complete pump) whereas the SVT backplate is not. Seems like buying a SVT pump and a TSS gear set would be cheaper...but I'm not sure how the SVT pump would work on a 4.6 3V block.

Anyone have input?



I agree that's what I would do if I had to build another motor.
 

fdjizm

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I thought I knew how an oil pump worked.
Then I see that weird ass gear that doesn't mesh with all the teeth and no holes in the outer gear for the oil to go through? well fuck me. :roflmao:
 

fdjizm

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I see and kind of understand that it's compressing it in a way but since the outer gear is solid (as far as I can see) how does the input get to the output?
 

fdjizm

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Saw that, are there holes in the outer gear? I don't see any on the part up top.
Looks like the outer ring just blocks the output and input.
 

JeremyH

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No holes in the gears, there are cavities in the pump housing from suction side to discharge side.
 
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JeremyH

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Here's a picture. Showing the cavities.

<IMG aria-label="Gerotor pump" id=yui_3_5_1_3_1392416183472_1675 style="HEIGHT: 476px; WIDTH: 500px" alt="" src="http://www.ret-monitor.com/articles/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/gerotorpump.jpg">
 

fdjizm

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Ahh I got it now that makes sense, that was the missing link!!! didn't know there was some cavities down there.
 

JeremyH

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The cavity going across the bottom recircs the oil to the suction side once max pressure it reached. In that pic the spring valve in on the bottom left and the cavity is going across the bottom.

Here is an actual picture of the internals of the pump.

<IMG aria-label="Gerotor Oil Pump Inside Apart" id=yui_3_5_1_3_1392416183472_2392 style="HEIGHT: 360px; WIDTH: 480px" alt="" src="http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jZTI6Pi3UaM/0.jpg">
 

BadPiggy

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After reading those threads, it seems like the biggest issue with them working in a 4.6 3V would be with oil fed turbo builds. From what I read, it's because of the spring pressure.

Since I'm running a blower, I see nothing wrong with going the route I previously mentioned. Worst case scenario, I'd have to pull my spring from my OEM oil pump and install in the new pump.


 

BadPiggy

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OK
I have my 2013 Oil Pump and my TSS Gearset.
My Gearset is labeled differently.

Yours reads:

TSS-3V/GT500
3B-20 (on both rings)

Mine reads:

TSS-3V/GT500
3F-35 (on both rings)

What is the difference...or is there?


3. TSS Billet Gears exposed. Carefully remove any residue of Thread Locker from the threads and the cap screws:

IMG_3134_zpsc204c24b.jpg
 
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