Driveline vibration

wbt

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Nope.. It starts vibrating at around 68-70mph, and gets worse the faster I go. At 100mph, the mirrors are vibrating.. lol

Gotcha...definitely sounds driveshaft related.
 

Trav4011

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I think it is, too.. I've eliminated just about everything else that I can think of. I thought about having a custom 1 piece shaft made, and make sure they balance the shit out of it before sending it. I'd be willing to bet that the 2 piece driveshaft in these cars has something to do with it.
 

wbt

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I think it is, too.. I've eliminated just about everything else that I can think of. I thought about having a custom 1 piece shaft made, and make sure they balance the shit out of it before sending it. I'd be willing to bet that the 2 piece driveshaft in these cars has something to do with it.

Just sent my Shaftemasters back due to a vibration that start at 120 and gets worse to 160. Had some interesting discussions with them on pinion angle. Basically had to prove to them it is set properly....

We will see if they can get it resolved. If not, Dynotech will be on it's way.
 

Trav4011

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Is the Shaftmasters a 2pc one 1? I'm going with Dynotech when I have mine made. I'd be willing to bet that we're having the same problem.. just yours happens at a higher speed because it's slightly better balanced.
 

wbt

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Is the Shaftmasters a 2pc one 1? I'm going with Dynotech when I have mine made. I'd be willing to bet that we're having the same problem.. just yours happens at a higher speed because it's slightly better balanced.

Aluminum 3.5" 1pc.

Here is a link:
http://shaftmasters.com/3aldrfomu20v6.html

I chose it mainly because they use a slip yoke and a 1 piece pinion flange mount without the need for an adapter. I asked them to turn the D/S at 8,500RPM and check for run out and balance. I am running -2* pinion angle which is in-line with what CHE recommends with the suspension parts I am using.

The main difference between the Shaftmasters and Dynotech is the pinion flange adapter. Outside of that it is pretty much the same.

Will know something beginning next week. :thumb:
 

wbt

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I wonder if the problem is in the slip yoke?

Possible. Dynotech uses a slip yoke too and know several folks running it without a single issue up to 160MPH.

Jury is still out on the Shaftmasters. I noticed some vibration at the track as I approached 120 however putting the car back on the dyno in 5th is where it was overwhelmingly evident. Normal driving would never have cause the problem to surface.
 

wbt

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No go on the Shaftmasters. Will be purchasing a Dynotech later this week.
 

GeorgeInNePa

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Does anyone else have a lot of "slop" on the flange at the rear of the trans? Specifically this is for the Auto guys.

I noticed this when I was putting the drive-shaft back on after the converter swap. I can wiggle it around pretty good. I wonder if that is the source of some of the "clunking" that we get and maybe a little of the vibe.
 

Trav4011

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Does anyone else have a lot of "slop" on the flange at the rear of the trans? Specifically this is for the Auto guys.

I noticed this when I was putting the drive-shaft back on after the converter swap. I can wiggle it around pretty good. I wonder if that is the source of some of the "clunking" that we get and maybe a little of the vibe.

I have TONS of slop in the drive shaft, and a clunking noise. I think mine is more gear related, though.
 

NickSezz

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I've had this same issue on my 05 V6 since the day I got it...Now that I am looking in to a new 5.0 this news is grim...

Stock V6 one piece shaft vibrated bad on deceleration at speed 90mph+ (3.73 gear)

Installed shaftmasters 4" and got bad vibe at speeds of 100+ (3.73 gear)

Installed J&M double adjustable uca set angle to -1.5 got bad vibe at speeds of 110+ (8.8 rear with 3.55s)

The only option I have left is to set the pinion angle to the angle off of the trans rather than the angle at the end of the drive shaft and or get a different d/s. I pretty much gave up on it though because I want to get rid of the car and I am not making enough power up top to really go past 120mph efficiently.

I've seen vids on youtube of 5.0 going 160+ as smooth as glass though...? I am going to test drive the heck out of the car before I close the deal...lol
 

kdanner

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The only option I have left is to set the pinion angle to the angle off of the trans

This is how it is done. The angle of the pinion vs the shaft is irrelevant except in extreme applications like lifted 4WD vehicles. You want the angle at both ends to be the same under power, so this is approximated by pointing the pinion down relative to the trans output shaft in a static condition, which should make it parallel under power.
 

NickSezz

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This is how it is done. The angle of the pinion vs the shaft is irrelevant except in extreme applications like lifted 4WD vehicles. You want the angle at both ends to be the same under power, so this is approximated by pointing the pinion down relative to the trans output shaft in a static condition, which should make it parallel under power.

You try telling that to the guy that did the work for me...lol I know...
 

KJGT

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I put a steel PST driveshaft in today, my 70-75mph passenger seat shaking vibration is still there. But I did make a few 70-130mph pulls and no vibration I could feel, I dont plan on going faster than that often so I'm happy with 130.

FWIW the steel PST was 21.7 lbs, the stock DS was 36.9 on my scale. 15lbs is 15lbs :) It looks like something else other than the driveshaft is causing my 75mph vibration though..
 

KJGT

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Does anyone else have a lot of "slop" on the flange at the rear of the trans? Specifically this is for the Auto guys.

I noticed this when I was putting the drive-shaft back on after the converter swap. I can wiggle it around pretty good. I wonder if that is the source of some of the "clunking" that we get and maybe a little of the vibe.

Yea, the output shaft on the trans is pretty sloppy, just like a slip yoke bushing on any other trans.
 

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