H&R coilovers?

[ArizonaGT]

Apparently you haven't heard of a 'lower center of gravity'

Is this a joke?

 

[ArizonaGT]

Well, one advantage of coilovers will be once you realize how screwed up handling is after you slam it, you can adjust it back up without having to buy new parts and swap everything out..

THIS.

LMFAO

I can let go the possible misled word choices, but it was WHO you said it to that made it an instant classic.

Congratulations! You have just joined the "Random Asshole seal of approval." Join the club. We meet every Friday night at the local tavern and -block our friends for the sheer comedic value.
I've got a knack for coming off the wrong way, myself. So much that I should try to find a career in it, cause I'd make millions.

No hard feelins, we all make mistakes. lol. Just remember this is a big boy forum.

There are too many rediculous things said in this thread. Too many for me to even justify spending time picking it apart. So I'll pick one. RACE CARS ARE SPECIFICALLY BUILT TO BE THAT LOW AND THEY WOULDN'T FARE WELL ON THE STREETS. Take a look at the Cadillac CTS-V race cars. There is no way you can drop a street caddy that low without cutting the rocker panels down. (among other things listed by sgDave)

If you want mad drop, but don't wanna destroy your ride quality and enjoyment of your car...has anyone suggested AIR SUSPENSION! I've dropped my car with a eibach-pro kit and shorter tires and I scrape ALL THE TIME. So much that I almost hate driving it in the city. In order to get over those 4 foot long speed bumps, I have to ride the clutch and the brake to got at a controlled .2mph. (and still barely scrape the mid muffler clamps)
I can't even get the car up in the air without running over a phone book first. Keep in mind this is only like a 1.3 inch drop (plus maybe .3-4in with the tires?)

How fast can you adjust a coil over suspension? Are you going to get out in the rain and adjust your ride height just trying to get into a parking garage? Lookup air-ride technologies or something.

I'm gonna have a couple beers and forget this thread existed. Useless.

I think I clicked on this one too late, nothing more to be said here.

 

[05SonicGT]

I ran this exact kit for road course use all this year - Very happy with it . You will find its an entirely different ride when lowered .- Tight , responsive & predictable .
Dont be afraid to drop it as low as you want - you can always go back up if unhappy.
My car is 99% road corse use & i wouldnt have it any other way .
If yours is a daily driver you will probably want to compromise .

 

[Sam Strano]

I love the internet...

Let's all take a breath for a second.

I sell H&R Coil-overs, among a lot of other things. My biggest issue with H&R Coil-over is they lack damping adjustment. Also you don't say which kit you are thinking about, there is more than one and they have vastly different spring rates--all the way to ballistic. For all the crowing, nobody has mentioned that.

Coil-overs don't make for handling perfection because they are "coil-overs". Realistically, they are just dampers and springs--that happen to give you adjustable ride height. And yes, you can go too low!!!!! Most of the difference folks feel isn't the fact the car is lower, it's the roll and pitch being cut, and slowed down by the spring and damper change.

Look if you want coil-overs, fine. I have H&R, KW, Steeda, and AST. Also if you want to get super high-end... Moton. I also have adjustable dampers like Koni Sports and Tokico D-specs--and we can put them together with a good set of lowering springs and save you some money if you can forgo the adjustable height. Or, the final option is to buy a coil-over conversion kit (I don't sell those, but can point you to those that can) and put them on a set of adjustable dampers like the Koni or Tokico and you'd come out money ahead of any coil-over that comes with adjustable dampers.

 

[Cookiemonster]

also, coil-overs have a better spring selection.

 

[Sam Strano]

Well that is true. However c/o kits come with specific springs usually quite stiff in fact most of the softer ones are stiffer than what I plan to use as a baseline for competition next year. And a new set of 4 springs will set you back around $250.

And this is important...... I developed a set of lowering springs for f-bodies based of work/testing of coil-overs. In the end I have springs that mimic the rates and heights I found to work best. Just because springs are just springs doesn't mean they don't work........

Comes down to if you truly want or NEED the height adjustment of rate change options. Frankly I thinkadjustable dampers and bars are more helpful to dialing in the car and can pull some high g nubmbers on lowering springs. Can pull 1.2 on Hoosiers on narrower rims and narrower tires than what some others use to pull similar numbers with $5k in parts installed....

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Comes down to if you truly want or NEED the height adjustment of rate change options. Frankly I thinkadjustable dampers and bars are more helpful to dialing in the car and can pull some high g nubmbers on lowering springs. Can pull 1.2 on Hoosiers on narrower rims and narrower tires than what some others use to pull similar numbers with $5k in parts installed....

Sam speaks the truth! "Coil-over" is merely a description of where the springs are located, and in fact, a McStrut IS a "coil-over," in that respect. First, a disclaimer: I have AST coilovers on my car. IF you are considering doing coilovers, you need to seriously assess whether you need the tuning flexibility or not... Adjustable dampers and higher-rate/shorter springs will give you EXACTLY the same gross effect that a coilover setup will, for a heck of a lot less money, however, the coilover setup can take you FAR beyond what the "standard" parts can do. First, the coilover springs are considerably cheaper than the application-specific pieces, and available in 25lb/in increments. Ask yourself if you need the flexibility of the wide assortment of rates, and most importantly, CAN YOU DO THE TESTING to refine the specific car/driver needs for the different given tracks you'll be visiting? If so, then proceed to the next point... To me, the most important thing about coilovers is the simple, easy ability to corner-weight the car. ASSUMING you have access to a set of scales, this is a simple, and fairly dramatic optimization for the track, but again, unless you're changing out spring rates and ride heights fairly frequently, the same effect can be had with simple shims for a whole lot less money.

 

[Vapour Trails]

Dave,

How can I give my kick drum more punch and get my toms more fat and wet?

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Dave,

How can I give my kick drum more punch and get my toms more fat and wet?

ANCIENT CHINESE SECRET!!!

1) Proper mic choice and mic placement; and yell at the drummer to tune it right. If you're looking for more definition on the kick, try putting the mic a little further in, and aimed directly at the beater. If you're looking for more "fat," in the sound, try pulling the mic back from the beater head, like to even with the hole in the resonant head, and angle it down a touch, midway between the beater (falam slam pad) and the edge of the shell. For the ultimate, though, double-mic the bitch. Shure SM91 for the top and bottom, and then your mic of choice (D112/B52/M88/RE20) for the meat range. You MAY need to reverse polarity on one to make the waveforms line up, but other than that, you can vary the blend between the two to get virtually any kick "picture" that you want.

2) "The number of gates in an engineer's rack is inversely proportional to the grey hairs on his head." For the toms, if you want FAT and WET, you'll need to gate. My weapon of choice is the Drawmer DS501, but any of the good ones from Drawmer, BSS or KT would do the trick nicely. FIRST, though, you need to start with toms that sound good! That's the drummer's job. There is no way to turn "blop" into "BOOM!" if you follow. for thicker tom sounds, I like dynamic mics, like the Sennheiser E904 or the EV PL408, and get them close to the head to gain the proximity effect. Once you have them sounding as good as you can with tuning, placement, and maybe a dash of strip EQ, then gate them, shooting for as loose a gate as you can while still maintaining separation. Low threshold, quick attack, no hold, moderately long release, fairly shallow gate depth (-12 or so) and spend some time with the key filters to get the threshold down even further, without false-triggering from adjacent toms. After that, spin up a good 'verb, and you're home free. I like the TC M3000 or Yammi SPX2000 for that. Find a nice, fat dark plate, and play with gating the verb a bit. That lets you run a longer RT60 time without it cluttering the mix.

3) Hey, you asked... ;-)

 

[Sam Strano]

Well this thread got drug off line. Dave--what's the deal with the clutch? Never heard from your guy for a new one, so is everything good with the current one?

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Well this thread got drug off line. Dave--what's the deal with the clutch? Never heard from your guy for a new one, so is everything good with the current one?

Well, as I sit here Moscow, there is as yet no verdict. We know something is off with the McLeod tob, and the trans should be out by now, but I have no hard verdict.

 

[Sam Strano]

Just curious if he heard or not, or if I somehow missed a message or something.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Okay, heard back, and it's a bad front cover o-ring on the TOB, clutch, p-plate and flywheel are in "mint" condition...

 

[Sam Strano]

That's good news for you!

 

[09schwarzecobra]

I don't know if this topic is still being discussed, I have KW variant 3 coil overs. they are pretty nice. you should check them out before you buy the H&R ones and if you have already bought them then i am sorry for posting so late.

 

[Sam Strano]

I agree with you 09schwarzcobra.. that was what I was saying, I think having adjustable dampers if possible is very wise.

 

[FlyByNight]

ANCIENT CHINESE SECRET!!!

1) Proper mic choice and mic placement; and yell at the drummer to tune it right. If you're looking for more definition on the kick, try putting the mic a little further in, and aimed directly at the beater. If you're looking for more "fat," in the sound, try pulling the mic back from the beater head, like to even with the hole in the resonant head, and angle it down a touch, midway between the beater (falam slam pad) and the edge of the shell. For the ultimate, though, double-mic the bitch. Shure SM91 for the top and bottom, and then your mic of choice (D112/B52/M88/RE20) for the meat range. You MAY need to reverse polarity on one to make the waveforms line up, but other than that, you can vary the blend between the two to get virtually any kick "picture" that you want.

2) "The number of gates in an engineer's rack is inversely proportional to the grey hairs on his head." For the toms, if you want FAT and WET, you'll need to gate. My weapon of choice is the Drawmer DS501, but any of the good ones from Drawmer, BSS or KT would do the trick nicely. FIRST, though, you need to start with toms that sound good! That's the drummer's job. There is no way to turn "blop" into "BOOM!" if you follow. for thicker tom sounds, I like dynamic mics, like the Sennheiser E904 or the EV PL408, and get them close to the head to gain the proximity effect. Once you have them sounding as good as you can with tuning, placement, and maybe a dash of strip EQ, then gate them, shooting for as loose a gate as you can while still maintaining separation. Low threshold, quick attack, no hold, moderately long release, fairly shallow gate depth (-12 or so) and spend some time with the key filters to get the threshold down even further, without false-triggering from adjacent toms. After that, spin up a good 'verb, and you're home free. I like the TC M3000 or Yammi SPX2000 for that. Find a nice, fat dark plate, and play with gating the verb a bit. That lets you run a longer RT60 time without it cluttering the mix.

3) Hey, you asked... ;-)

That was pretty damned impressive Dave! I don't have a clue how correct it is, but I'm willing to bet you're dead nuts on the money! Ya, I'm off topic but I couldn't resist. Besides, I think we lost the OP many moons ago.