had an interesting conversation today

[BlackSnakeMoan]

So i went to a local shop today to have 3.73 installed and started talking about my car project to the shop owner (very experienced guy who dealt with justin at JPC. He knows his stuff). I told him that i wanted to start with:
tune, cai, udp, differentials, and cmcv (I have those mods)
and that my next step was to get a lca, uca, driveshaft, and k-member+ a-arms. He grinned, which gave the idea that he thinks im going the wrong direction. Told him whats funny and he replied:

What do you want the driveshaft a k-member at this stage? I said this is the direction stang owners are taking, and that i want to improve my suspension,reduce the cars weight and then put the exhaust system + supercharge. (SC was my last step)

He said spend your money on stuff that will give your power and not stuff the reduces weight. Dont get the kmember and driveshaft now. those are stuff that people should do after they reach the maximum hp. Then its time to put your car on a diet to improve your timings.

He conculded by saying that if one day you plan on getting a supercharge, dont waste your money on stuff that will be replaced when you get the SC like cai and pulley.

He didnt convice me yet but he got me thinking if what he says is better for me.

What do you guys think? Is he right? or are all those stang owners out there in all forums right?

 

[GIG4FUN]

I spent my money a little at a time buying the things little by little. I didn't waste any of it ($) even if it all comes off someday for a power adder BECAUSE i have been using it every day since I got it and the expensive things sometimes seem too far down the road for my liking.
Take a look at my sig.... haha, seems your kind of direction.

I'm looking at tire packages right now. I think I am as fast as I can be N/A.... so then, I guess I am wasting a bit more of the power adder fund.

The weight reduction helps when you are lined up with stuff (ugly chargers etc) you know... It's not ALL about the track everyday.

 

[psfracer]

If I remember correctly the k-member and a-arms only saves 40lbs and its like $1,000. I agree with him on that.

As the price for the drvieshafts have come down alot (since 2 years ago), and this could be used no matter what direction you take with the car in the future, I think this is a good mod---especially since your saving rotational weight.

 

[GIG4FUN]

but... the K-member gives so much room to work on stuff too. Working on mine vs. working on the wife's car. I see it a lot as a conveinience too. I can see not spending it though, but when I bought mine it was cheaper.

 

[stkjock]

IMO - what he says makes sense. the key would be how long are you going to wait before the S/C? if it's 2+ years then the CAI and tune now make sense as u'll get the enjoyment for a decent period. if the s/c is comiing in 6 months then no.

 

[US-1]

K-member....I can see his point. Driveshaft, however, is a mandatory item on these cars even with N/A and bolt on parts. Quick and easy power.

 

[MLC40]

I agree..

I agree with what he is saying and to a point that is what I have done. The mods went in this order....

Year 1
new shifter and DS
LT headers (mostly because I wanted to do something that year and could not afford the KB)

Year 2
KB 2.6
Nexus gauges

This year
Steeda LCA;s & UCA
BMR K-member & A-arms
Tru-trac with 4.10 gears

Next Year
Built SB and Trans

 

[thump_rrr]

I installed a set of longtube headers which required the poly engine mounts so that the steering shaft wouldn't rub when going around corners. Since the mounts were $200 and I got the K-Member for $400 I feel that I didn't waste any money and increased the room under the car, increased the rigidity and reduced the weight. All in all it was worth it to ME.
The driveshaft I did when I installed the S/C amd for me it was a safety issue more than anything else.
As for the CAI and tune I got 2/3 of my money back after 1 year so that was worth it to me also for the amount of fun it provided.

What is worth it for some may not be worth it for others. Do what you think is right for your situation.

PS I would suggest the BMR K member with lowered mounts if you are planning a S/C for the future.

 

[KIMMER]

I disagree with his statement about the k member brace and the driveshaft. The stock d/s is a pig and it's not the weight to the car, but the rotational mass (weight) that hurts performance. The d/s is one of the first things I would do and the k member brace isn't needed right away, but as soon as I supercharged my car, I couldn't get it into 3rd powershifting. I put on the K member and problem solved. Here's my list of items if I were to do it all over again.

1. driveshaft
2. UCA and LCA's
3. Built lower end
4. TR6060 trans and high hp clutch if you have a manual
5. supercharger or turbo setup
6. build factory rear or do bolt in 9" kit
7. lower car and new suspension

I love the hp of my car right now, but I constantly worry about blowing the motor or trashing the trans. I should have built the lowerend and the driveline before going with the supercharger. Live and learn.......

 

[F00Mustang]

I don't have the k-member yet so I can't comment on that. But the driveshaft is definately worth it. The car moves like it's 500lbs lighter. takes off easier, and drives better with less slop in the drivetrain. Definately worth it. If I did it all over again, I would do the CAI, Driveshaft, then suspension, and then start saving for FI. I would NOT have spent the money on the gears, the UDP's (not much gain there), or the headers.

I would only skip the gears and headers now because I plan on going turbo. At the time I bought them, I was planning on going with a whipple and gears and LT's were the right way to go.

 

[Mick]

It just worked out that way for me. Other then the gears, everything on my car is the way it came from the factory, except for of course under the hood. When I open the hood the look on there face is priceless.

 

[MikeVistaBlue06]

I disagree with his statement about the k member brace and the driveshaft. The stock d/s is a pig and it's not the weight to the car, but the rotational mass (weight) that hurts performance.

+ 100000000000000000000000000000000000000!!!

Stock drive shaft is a piece of shit and that is being very kind!!! Ditto on the physics quoted as well:

rotational inertia = 1/2 I w^2 where I is the moment of intertia and the moment of intertia is directly proportional to the mass of the object!

Mike

 

[F00Mustang]

rotational inertia = 1/2 I w^2 where I is the moment of intertia and the moment of intertia is directly proportional to the mass of the object!

Mike

To sum up:

This means that rotating something smaller/lighter takes exponentially less energy than something heavier/bigger. This rule formula takes into account not only weight, but the diameter of the cylinder, because both have a direct effect on the moment of inertia of an object.

This is also why 20" rims/tires - even though they may be the same overall diameter as 17" rims/tires - make a car so much slower. It's not just the weight, it's the fact that the weight is moved so much farther to the outside of the circle.

 

[Larry_H]

The smart builder will build from the bottom up. Replace the parts that are going to allow you to use that power when you get it. 600RWHP doesn't do you a bit of good if you are then going to snap your driveshaft, burn up your clutch, bust your diff, wheel hop your way to busted axles and generally tear up your car, break parts and add tow bills to your mod expenses....

 

[don_w]

The smart builder will build from the bottom up. Replace the parts that are going to allow you to use that power when you get it. 600RWHP doesn't do you a bit of good if you are then going to snap your driveshaft, burn up your clutch, bust your diff, wheel hop your way to busted axles and generally tear up your car, break parts and add tow bills to your mod expenses....

Zackly!

 

[F00Mustang]

The smart builder will build from the bottom up. Replace the parts that are going to allow you to use that power when you get it. 600RWHP doesn't do you a bit of good if you are then going to snap your driveshaft, burn up your clutch, bust your diff, wheel hop your way to busted axles and generally tear up your car, break parts and add tow bills to your mod expenses....

That's why I allready have everything else done. Then I'll be saying "Hey Larry, I need you to build me a ..."

 

[BlackSnakeMoan]

The smart builder will build from the bottom up. Replace the parts that are going to allow you to use that power when you get it. 600RWHP doesn't do you a bit of good if you are then going to snap your driveshaft, burn up your clutch, bust your diff, wheel hop your way to busted axles and generally tear up your car, break parts and add tow bills to your mod expenses....

and thats what im gonna do. Smart build it.
thanks

 

[Virgin_Mustang]

not to kidnap the theread but sinmce the driveshaft thingy is there.. whats better the bmr carbon fiber or the normal aluminium drive shaft ? whats the diffrence ?


Thanks/

 

[BlackSnakeMoan]

I really dont have that much of experiece but i would go for an aluminum driveshaft and i think spyder has the best one.