StevenMcTowelie
Banned
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2014
- Posts
- 10
- Reaction score
- 0
I'm new here, figured I'd make my first thread a useful one. (also who do I talk to about changing my username?) copied from my post on another website.
anyway
You just installed longtubes, but your tuner didn't turn off your oxygen sensors and you're getting an annoying CEL? You don't have cats and having trouble passing emissions? If so I have the solution for you! I had this dilemma, and I thought about mil eliminators, but people always say:
Well you guys are right. Sorta. See now, the ones they sell on AM, and the homemade the pre-05 ones don't work on our cars. Our cars are smarter than the average horse, so we have to work a little bit harder to trick them. See the signals from the rear oxygen sensors have to be somewhat aligned with the signals from the front sensors, or the computer gets wise to our tactics and throws a code, and all of a sudden you fail your emissions inspection.
So here's what we're gonna do, were gonna get smart and fool the computer. Get your keys, because we're going on a field trip to Radio Shack boys! What you're gonna need is:
A pair of old oxygen sensors. (The heater circuits have to work, but nothing else)
2 1.0μF Tantalum Capacitors (p/n 272-1434)
1 pack of 1Mohm 1/2w Resistors (p/n 271-1134)
at least 10ft of 22 guage wire. I just bought a 100 ft roll
a pack of various sized lengths of heatshrink.
and finally, some wire taps.
So, lets get started shall we? First thing you gotta do is peel back the protective sleeve over the wires on the SENSOR end. Now cut and strip back only the black and grey wires that go to the connector end. You'll have this so far:
Now what you want to do, is take one of the resistors, and one of the capacitors, and connect them to the black wire. Connect them securely, I recommend soldering them, then cover it up with heatshrink.
Next thing up, take that capacitor, and connect it to the grey wire. Same thing as before, connect them securely, then heatshrink.
Now, heatshrink those wires and secure them up nice. Next thing you want to do is cut a 3 or 4 foot length of wire, and connect it to the other end of that resistor that's still hanging out. This is the end that will end up connecting to your front oxygen sensor.
Connect that up securely, heatshrink and I taped it up for good measure, just to protect it from water and all the other crap that the underside of your car experiences on a daily basis.
And this is what they looked like when I was done.
Now forgive me, I don't have any pictures of the last steps. Next think you are gonna have to do is PROPERLY lift your car. (jack stands! I can't stress this enough!) Ok now with your front sensors, you're gonna peel back that protective sleeve again, and use your wire taps to tap into the black wire from your front sensor. This will go to that wire you have coming off the rear oxygen sensor. Now connect the rear sensor to the rear plug, and now tuck away the extra wiring in a spot that doesn't get hot, and with the sensor itself, make sure that the tip isn't touching anything. This puppy gets up to around 600 degrees if I remember right and you don't want that thing melting anything. From what I've seen, the trans mount is a good place to put them.
When you're connecting these up, make sure you don't cross wire them. Passenger side sensors are paired and same with the drivers side. It's not rocket science people.
Now load up a tune that has your rear sensors turned on, and do a drive cycle. If you did everything correctly you should have no CEL and should be able to pass the OBDII portion of an emissions test!
All credit goes to king Ahmet, I just took his article and made it a little easier to read with more pictures. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...o-cats-passed-emissions-boom.html#post5490878
NOTE: If you used an old pair of FRONT oxygen sensors like I did, then you need to modify the connector slightly. Theres these 2 little pegs that are used to keep the front and rear sensors from being mixed up during installation. You need to remove those pegs.
Before:
After:
anyway
You just installed longtubes, but your tuner didn't turn off your oxygen sensors and you're getting an annoying CEL? You don't have cats and having trouble passing emissions? If so I have the solution for you! I had this dilemma, and I thought about mil eliminators, but people always say:
Well you guys are right. Sorta. See now, the ones they sell on AM, and the homemade the pre-05 ones don't work on our cars. Our cars are smarter than the average horse, so we have to work a little bit harder to trick them. See the signals from the rear oxygen sensors have to be somewhat aligned with the signals from the front sensors, or the computer gets wise to our tactics and throws a code, and all of a sudden you fail your emissions inspection.
So here's what we're gonna do, were gonna get smart and fool the computer. Get your keys, because we're going on a field trip to Radio Shack boys! What you're gonna need is:
A pair of old oxygen sensors. (The heater circuits have to work, but nothing else)
2 1.0μF Tantalum Capacitors (p/n 272-1434)
1 pack of 1Mohm 1/2w Resistors (p/n 271-1134)
at least 10ft of 22 guage wire. I just bought a 100 ft roll
a pack of various sized lengths of heatshrink.
and finally, some wire taps.
So, lets get started shall we? First thing you gotta do is peel back the protective sleeve over the wires on the SENSOR end. Now cut and strip back only the black and grey wires that go to the connector end. You'll have this so far:
Now what you want to do, is take one of the resistors, and one of the capacitors, and connect them to the black wire. Connect them securely, I recommend soldering them, then cover it up with heatshrink.
Next thing up, take that capacitor, and connect it to the grey wire. Same thing as before, connect them securely, then heatshrink.
Now, heatshrink those wires and secure them up nice. Next thing you want to do is cut a 3 or 4 foot length of wire, and connect it to the other end of that resistor that's still hanging out. This is the end that will end up connecting to your front oxygen sensor.
Connect that up securely, heatshrink and I taped it up for good measure, just to protect it from water and all the other crap that the underside of your car experiences on a daily basis.
And this is what they looked like when I was done.
Now forgive me, I don't have any pictures of the last steps. Next think you are gonna have to do is PROPERLY lift your car. (jack stands! I can't stress this enough!) Ok now with your front sensors, you're gonna peel back that protective sleeve again, and use your wire taps to tap into the black wire from your front sensor. This will go to that wire you have coming off the rear oxygen sensor. Now connect the rear sensor to the rear plug, and now tuck away the extra wiring in a spot that doesn't get hot, and with the sensor itself, make sure that the tip isn't touching anything. This puppy gets up to around 600 degrees if I remember right and you don't want that thing melting anything. From what I've seen, the trans mount is a good place to put them.
When you're connecting these up, make sure you don't cross wire them. Passenger side sensors are paired and same with the drivers side. It's not rocket science people.
Now load up a tune that has your rear sensors turned on, and do a drive cycle. If you did everything correctly you should have no CEL and should be able to pass the OBDII portion of an emissions test!
All credit goes to king Ahmet, I just took his article and made it a little easier to read with more pictures. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...o-cats-passed-emissions-boom.html#post5490878
NOTE: If you used an old pair of FRONT oxygen sensors like I did, then you need to modify the connector slightly. Theres these 2 little pegs that are used to keep the front and rear sensors from being mixed up during installation. You need to remove those pegs.
Before:
After:
