Installation and Q&A for S&H Stealth Single kit 05-10

[JeremyH]

This thread will serve as the installation guide for 05-10 Single turbo kit. It will also be an open thread for guys to ask questions about the install and we will answer those questions here for others to see and reference. Figured this would be the easiest and most beneficial way to gather that info all in one place.

The kit can be installed on jack stands or on a lift, using hand tools. Recommend two people for the install and it can be done in 5-6 hours.

Recommended tuners are Pro-Dyno, Mid Atlantic Performance and "Lito" MDS www.tudyno.com

Below is a list of tools and materials that we recommend for the install.

Anti seize
Copper RTV sealant
Blue locktite
Locktite 567 thread sealant (liquid Teflon)
An wrenches or adjustable smooth jaw wrenches
(If running the rear o2 sensors the you will need o2 extensions)
Drain pan
Jack stands or lift
Assorted hand tools wrenches and sockets
Razor blade
Zip ties



Single kit parts list.

-CT4X T4/3"vband gen2 oil-less turbo
-Passenger header J pipe with flex coupler
-Driver side feed pipe with merge, T4 flange and wastegate mount
-Down pipe with 3" cutout/cap and Y split
-S&H Performance 50mm blow off valve kit
-Tial MVS 38mm vband wastegate kit
-Intercooler with mounting bolts
-Radiator/intercooler/swaybar support brace
-3.5" aluminum pipes from intercooler to throttle body x 2
-3" aluminum pipe from turbo to intercooler x 3
-4.5" to 3.5" 90deg silicone coupler to throttle body
-3.5" 90deg silicone coupler
-3.5" straight coupler
-3" 90deg silicone coupler
-3" straight silicone coupler x 2
-2.5" straight silicone coupler
-4" to 3" straight coupler
-3" v-band clamp
-2.5" v-band clamp
-2.5" t-bolt clamp x 2
-3" t-bolt clamp x 7
-3.5" t-bolt clamp x 5
-4.5" t-bolt clamp
-4" t-bolt clamp
-1.5" t-bolt clamp x 2
-PMAS HPX-E mass air meter and wire extension (plug and play)
-Radiator hose adaptor for water return (05/06) or Upper Radiator pipe for (07-10)
-Air filter
-4" to 3" aluminum pipe (filter to turbo compressor cover)
-Roll of black fiberglass heat wrap 50ft
-6mm black silicone boost/vac tubing 12ft
-T4 turbo blanket
-Water line kit (6an hose, hose ends and fittings)

General installation Notes:

Many of the steps can be done in any order.

Before you start:
As always ensure the car is properly supported on a lift or jackstands and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the factory mid-pipe, you will reuse the studs and nuts and clamps. Remove the intake and airbox.
Drain the coolant into a drain pan or bucket, ensure the container is clean if you plan to reuse the coolant at the end.
Your ready to begin!

Heat Wrap:
We recommend wrapping all pre turbo hot side piping. Some may use stainless steel metal zipties to attach it which you can get at your local home depot or Lowe's but they can be a pain, we have found worm gear clamp to work a little better.
We also recommend wrapping the first cold side pipe that goes from the turbo outlet towards the passenger side of the car and up over the k member since this pipe is closest to exhaust piping. Make sure you leave enough room for the silicone coupler to slip over the pipe on each end if you do.

Turbo blanket:
The turbine blanket will help keep heat in the turbine and promote spool, it is not mandatory to be used and some may choose to leave it off. Leaving it off will not affect anything or cause excess heat under the car. We include a blanket for your convenience.

V-band and T-bolt clamps:
These clamps don't need gorilla torqued down to get a good seal, do not use power tools or you can break them. For the v-bands a good layer of copper rtv on the flanges and get the clamp on and nut started and snug tight with a wrench and you will have a good seal. For the T-bolts, you want to place them on the silicone coupler and pipe even with and close to the rolled bead but not on top of it. And again snug tight by hand with a wrench do not over torque or you will strip the threads and break the clamp.

 

[JeremyH]

BOV installation.

Locate the intercooler pipe with the 2" v-band flange mount. The S&H bov comes with an 11psi spring installed for stock vac 20-22. Kit also includes a 9psi spring for less vacuum setups 16-19 vac.

Install the air fitting on the banjo bolt, putting a flat washer on each side of the fitting and install hand tight on the top port of the bov.

Make sure you use the oring on the mounting flange prior to attaching the bov for a leak proof seal. Best way is to lay the oring on the mount on the intercooler pipe and then set the bov on top.

Attach the bov using the supplied v-band clamp, ensure the v grooves encompass both the mounting flange on the bov and on the intercooler pipe all the way around. Hand tighten the nut on the v-band flange and spin the bov to the orientation you desire. You can leave it loose for final fitting on the car or tighten it now. You can also move the air fitting on the top later to point in the direction you want for best vac hose routing.

The bov needs a boost/vac source on the engine side of the throttle body. You must route a vaccum hose from the top port air fitting to this source. Common areas to T in are the vac hose going to the frps on the driver side fuel rail or at the brake booster vac line back by the firewall. Ensure vacuum fittings are tight, we like to install a ziptie over the hose and barb especialy for higher boost applications. You can also use a tap on an intake manifold or boost/vac block for this source.

How to verify proper bov operation on your car. With the kit fully installed and the car running at warm idle. The bov can be slightly open or shut. It should be easy to reach over and push the valve open with your hand, if it is shut tight and hard to open check your vac line for leaks or you need a softer spring. While watching the bov, rev the engine up high, the valve should snap fully shut till you let off the throttle and then fully open briefly and then return to its initial position. If it doesn't fully open during this test again, check your vac line for leaks or install the softer spring in the top chamber of the bov.

 

[JeremyH]

Wastegate Setup

The kit comes with a Tial MVS 38mm valve vband flange wastgate. It is very compact and versatile. The gate has two top ports and three side ports to choose from to fit your application. It also has water ports for road racing applications.

I will walkthrough how to setup your gate for your car.

First your going to want to select the spring(s) size you want based on desired minimum boost level.

Remove the 6 screws holding the top chamber cover. Be careful as the top will be under pressure if there are springs installed.

Here is the spring chart for reference.

So my desired minimum boost level is 10psi, so I installed the red and green spring to get 10.15psi. This rating will very from setup to setup.
Set the spring in the correct size groove in the valve. For a stock motor we recommend starting with the smallest 4psi spring.

I recommend using blue locktite on the top chamber screws when you reinstall them to ensure they stay snug.

Carefully seat the top chamber on the springs in the correct groove, center it and while pushing down get two opposing side screws started, then evenly tighten down all screws using a star pattern. Threads are aluminum so be careful not to over tighten or cross thread them. Snug them tight hand/wrench tight.

Next you can setup the air fittings and waste gate ports. I used 567 thread sealant on these connections for a good leak proof seal.

The air fitting barb should be assembled onto the banjo bolt with one washer on each side.

The Tial MVS has 3 side ports. Only one side port is used for pressure reference for gate control the other two ports must be plugged. These side ports are the three larger lower ports spaced around the body of the valve.

There are two top ports, one on the center top of the chamber and one on the side top. These are normally vented to atmosphere for a basic setup using no controller or a simple boost controller. I recommend plugging one and installing the air fitting barb in the other and orient it to prevent dirt and debris from falling into the gate.

And here is a shot of the gate with plugs and fittings installed. Note, the kit comes with water fittings which I did not install but can be installed regardless if running water to them or not.

Now you can install the gate onto the turbo feed pipe flange. Remove the orange tape from the bottom port holding the fire ring in place. Mount the bottom v-band port with fire ring to the v-band flange for the waste gate on the hotside feed pipe. Slip on the clamp and arrange it so the nut for tightening is facing down/back so it can be fully tighten easily once on the car. Just leave it snug enough so you can still rotate the gate on the flange for best positioning. The nut can be fully tightened later once you have the gate angle how you want it, it may take you a few tries to orient it how you want.


For best waste gate control you will want a pressure only source routed to the gates side port. (Do not route the pressure reference to the top port), common sources are the turbo compressor housing which can be tapped and then install a barb or from the piping post intercooler, I have also seen some put a barb on the intercooler end tank. Some guys like to use a pressure/vac source from the manifold like what the bov uses which will also work.

 

[JeremyH]

K member modifcation

Depending on your year, some stock k members have provisions for or have an oem rear k member/a-arm brace. This brace has to be removed and the driver side brace mount needs modified and clearanced for the hotside piping. Any aftermarket a-arm brace will need to be removed as well.

Here is a shot of the factory brace, if you have one, it will need to be removed.

Here is a non factory a-arm brace installed on the oem k member. Red line shows where it needs cut.

These pics show you where the K member will need to be clearance on each side you can use a cutting wheel or grinder to notch it.

 

[JeremyH]

Turbo and Hotside installation

Install two 3/8npt to 6an male to male fittings into the water ports on the turbo using locktite 576. We don't recommend using Teflon tape but you can, just be careful to place it far enough back on the threads as to not get any into the turbo but still on the threads.

Turbo Clocking: Loosen all the bolts a turn on the back of the compressor cover and turbine housing this will allow you to rotate each end in relation to the center section. Once you have everything clocked tighten the back bolts back down. Bolt the turbo to the T4 flange you can use a gasket or copper rtv. Install the wastegate and fire ring on to the wastegate flange. You can also install the gate later once the turbo and hotside are on the car. Orient the gate so the discharge points down towards the ground. A thin later of copper rtv on the gate flange doesn't hurt either.



You can install the 4" to 3" coupler onto the inlet of the compressor cover before or after the next step.



Installing into the car:
It is' best to have a second set of hands for this step, but can be done on your own. Apply a thick layer of copper rtv to the inside lip of the sockets going to the headers and on one side of the 2.5" vband flange. Feed it up and slide the 2 bolt socket flanges into place and install the nuts on each side a couple turns leaving it loose and not seated. Orient the piping and turbo so the J pipe v-band flange matches up with the turbo feed 2.5 v-band flange. Install the 2.5" v-band clamp with the pipes in the correct orientation and just thread the nut a few threads to hold it and leave it loose. Apply a layer of copper rtv to the 3" vband flange on the downpipe, position the downpipe up to the turbine vband and the overaxle pipes. Slip the band clamps on at the over axle pipes and attach the 3" vband clamp and thread the nut a few turns so everything is in place. Make final adjustments now for best fitment and ground clearance. Again, a second set of hands is a big help here or use a jack etc to place everything up where you want it or best fitment. Now start to evenly tighten the header stud bolts as the sockets seat up on the headers, at the same time start to tighten the 2.5" vband on the crossover pipe and 3" vband on the down pipe. Once your sure every thing is where you want go back and fully wrench snug all the connections as well as the over axle band clamps.

Install the filter on the end of the 3" intake elbow pipe just slide it on. Slide the other end into the 4" to 3" coupler on the turbo inlet. Orient the pipe and filter so it routes forward and up, tighten the worm gear clamp on the air filter and tighten down the coupler t-bolts. Now that the hot side is on I would do the water lines and the move on to the coldside.

 

[JeremyH]

Intercooler/radiator/front sway bar support brace

Support the radiator with a jack and remove the 4 bolts holding the radiator support brace in place on each side. If you run a front sway bar disconnect the 2 sway bar mount bolts on each side from the factory radiator support. You will need to remove the 2 rubber grommets from the stock brace and install them on the new brace.
They install as shown below, I lubed them with a little motor oil and used a flat tip screwdriver to slide them in place on the new brace.

Install the hpx-e maf into the maf flange on the intercooler, using a little silicone sealant or rtv sealant helps make for a nice leak proof seal. Tighten the 2 maf flange bolts, do not overtigten. Flow is out away from the intercooler.

Next slide the intercooler up into the car behind the front bumper beam with the maf flange pointing towards the drivers side of the car and support it with the jack as well. I used a block of wood on the jack so it can hold the radiator and intercooler at the same time.

Slide the new brace back into the car with the long intercooler support legs facing foward, ensure the rubber grommets slide into the bottom mounting tabs on the radiator, it may make this step easier by removing the two top radiator mount brackets as shown and then bolt the brace in from below using the factory nuts. Again a second set of hands here really helps. Then reinstall the top radiator mounting brackets if you removed them earlier. And connect the front sway bar mounts to the new brace.

Next we will install the bottom mounting bolts for the intercooler to the support brace. You can go ahead and remove the jack now that the brace and radiator are supported, and guide the intercooler onto its mounting tabs. Locate the bag with bolts and washers for the intercooler mounting.

Slide the bolts through the bottom on each side using a lock washer and a flat washer, then install the remaining three washer on the top of the bolt before tightening it into the intercooler mounting tab. This keeps the bolt from bottoming out into the bottom of the intercooler and aligns the intercooler properly. Do not over tighten just wrench tight till the lock washer is compressed. You may need more or less washers depending on bolt length. Ensure the bolts to not bottom out in the intercooler as they can push though the aluminum and cause the intercooler to leak.

Locate the 3" 90 degree elbow and 3.5" 90 degree elbow silicone couplers. Go ahead and install the 3" elbow on the passenger side facing back, slip on two 3" t-bolt clamps one on each side and leave loose for now. Slip the 3.5" elbow onto the driver side where the maf is and face it toward the back of the car, slip on two 3.5" t-bolts and leave loose for now as well. Locate the 3.5" 90 degree pipe and install it into this intercooler coupler. The longer leg of the pipe goes towards the intercooler. And then the last pipe attached to the 90 via the straight 3.5" silicone coupler and routes up to the throttle body coupler.

Here is a trick submitted by David for installing the swaybar mounting bolts into the new brace, this keeps the bolts from spinning when you tighten down the nuts.

 

[JeremyH]

Water lines for turbo cooling

There are many different ways to do this so route the lines and tuck them whichever way works best for you. I choose to use some zip ties to keep the water lines flush and out of the way for a clean install.

There is a recessed hex plug in the driver side of the block towards the back under the header. Remove the plug (there will likely be more coolant still in the block so have a bucket ready) and install a 3/8npt to 6an male to male fitting using some locktite 567 on the threads. This is the cold water feed to the turbo for cooling. You can use either side of the turbo center section for inlet and outlet so use which ever side is easier based on how you have it clocked. If one port is lower towards the ground than the other, then using the lower port for cold inlet is optimal. Route some an line from the block fitting to the turbo in the orientation you want that clears the hot piping, once you have the length cut the line from the roll and install the desired hose ends using an wrenches or smooth jaw adjustable pliers to tighten them on the ends. Route your line and tighten the hosed ends onto the fittings at the block and turbo. They should be wrench tight to seal they do not need torqued down so be careful not to over tighten.

The pic below shows the location of the hex plug.

The remaining outlet on the turbo center section is your hot water return to the top/warm side of your cooling system.

For 05/06 cars, install another 3/8npt to 6an fitting into the aluminum adaptor, again use locktite 567.
The adaptor should be installed in the passenger side upper radiator hose. Once you have the position for where you want the adaptor, cut the hose, you may want to remove an inch or so of hose from where you cut it to fit the adaptor. Slide the adaptor into the hose and orient it in the direction you want. Use the two 1.5" t-bolt clamps to tighten it up.

For 07-10 cars, position the supplied replacement upper radiator hose pipe along the same orientation as your oem upper radiator hose. Mark the hose on each end of the pipe where you will need to cut it, leave an inch addition so you can slide the pipe in on each end and clamp it. Once its cut install the coolant pipe and tighten it down with the 1.5" t-bolt clamps.

Using the roll of an line again install the desired hose end on end of the line and tighten on to the turbo fitting. Route the line out of the way up to your hot line return, cut the line to desired length (you will have leftover line) and install the desired hose end. Install and tighten the hose end onto the fitting for your hot water return out of the turbo.


An hose end assembly video.

 

[JeremyH]

Coldside installation

The two 3.5" coldside pipes go from intercooler to throttle body. Slip the 4.5" to 3.5" silicone coupler onto the throttle body and angle it towards the dirver side. The longer pipe feeds up and the shorter J pipe comes back and towards the inside of the car fom the intercooler. These two pipes attach together with the straight 3.5" silicone coupler. Adjust the pipes and couplers for best fit and clearance and then install and wrench tighten the corresponding t-bolts, do not over tighten.

Here is a mock up of the cold side showing where the pipes and silicone couplers go.

 

[JeremyH]

Final Checks and Misc.

Now go over everything one last time. Check all silicone couplers and t-bolts, ensure the couplers are fully seated on the intercooler piping and the t-bolts are tight. Overall the kit fits very well and flush and nothing should hang down, sag or rub. You may need to slightly adjust small things like fog light wiring etc make sure nothing is resting on any piping that could rattle or rub. Ensure the downpipes are solid and in the hangers, that the v-bands are snug and the over axle pipes are clamped on and tight. Check all the water lines again and ensure the an lines are snug and wrench tight. Refill fluids, reconnect battery and check everything over again.
Also check your vacuum lines for the bov and wastegate and make sure the lines are routed out of the way and connections are good, again we recommend a zip tie on the ends at the barbs.
We recommend a few full heat cycles and 100-200miles or a little high rpm (stay out boost) driving to make sure the turbo is ready for the dyno. Also after a few heat cycles check you header bolts and v-bland clamps again.

Happy tuning!