Installation and Q&A for S&H Stealth Twin kit 05-10

[JeremyH]

This thread will serve as the installation guide for 05-10 twin kit.
It will also be an open forum for guys to ask questions about the install and we will answer those questions here for others to see and reference. Figured this would be the easiest and most beneficial way to gather that info all in one place.

The kit can be installed on jack stands or on a lift, using hand tools. Recommend two people for the install and it can be done in 5-6 hours.

Right now our current reccommended tuners are Pro-Dyno, MAP and Lito.

Below is a list of tools etc that we recommend for the install.

Anti seize
Copper RTV sealant
Blue locktite
locktite 567 thread sealant
An wrenches or adjustable wrenches
(If running the rear o2 sensors the you will need o2 extensions)
Drain pan
Jack stands or lift
Jack
Assorted hand tools
Razor blade
Vacuum line
Zip ties


And here is an overall list of the install process we will go into more detail in the thread.

Disassembly

1- take off mid pipe. Keep header bolts and exhuast clamps for reuse.

2- support radiator (jack or jackstand). Take off stock radiator and sway bar support brace. Keep rubber bushings to be used later for new brace.

3- take off intake tube and air box if it is on the car still.

4- notch passenger side a-arm mount cover to give you room for the turbo and piping if needed.

5- drain radiator and set to the side for reuse later.



Assembly

1- disconnect battery before doing anything

2- bolt the turbos and the waste gates to the short pipes that connect to the manifolds. (Be sure to put on the 3/8 to-6an fittings,turbo gaskets, turbo blankets, and what ever wastegate spring you want to run at this time. Also use anti-seize on turbo flange studs.) Passenger side will have the o2 bung in it. Screw on passenger side o2 sensor.

3- slide in the down pipes before putting on the pipes with the turbos on them. Leave them hanging freely from the hangers on the trans mount.

4- bolt up the pipes with the turbos and connect the down pipe with the supplied 2-3" v-band clamps and tighten it up. (This may take two people to do.) adjust down pipe to correct location and tighten up the stock clamps on the over axel pipes.

5- put mass air meeter into the flange (use a little silicone to seal up the flange. Dont use too much). slide intercooler into place in front of the radiator and support it. Take radiator support supplied in the kit and place stock rubber bushings in the holes and bolt it to the car and the intercooler. Also if needed bolt on power steering line extension brackets.

6- on the driver side of the intercooler place a 3.5" 90deg coupling and tee bolt clamp on the intercooler and on the passenger side of the intercooler place a 3" 90deg coupling and tee bolt clamp on as well. The pipe with the blow off valve flange will go on next. Be sure to put on the blow off valve before installation. On the driver side of the intercooler put the 3.5" 90deg pipe on (this can only go on and fit one way). Next put the 4.5" to 3.5" 90 deg coupling with tee bolt clamps on the throttle body but do not tighten them. Take the 3.5" long pipe and connect it to the lower pipe and the throttle body. The next pipe is the 3" pipe with the y on it. Connect it using supplied couplings and clamps to the pipe going to the intercooler that has the blow off valve on it. Plug in the supplied mass air meter extension wire to the meeter and the stock wiring harness. The other pipes without the bead roll or welded tits are the intake pipes that the filters hook to. The shortest pipe is the passenger side filter adapter. The other two pipes are the passenger side pipes. The s bend pipe goes to the turbo and the 90deg pipe angles back towards the center of the car and the filter connects to it.

7- take the supplied radiator adapters and put on the supplied 3/8 to -6an fitting. cut the upper radiator hose where ever you would like and slid in the supplied radiator adapter and tighten clamps. On the driver side of the block there is a plug. Take out the plug and put the 3/8 to 6an fitting and screw it into the block. Plum your water lines to the supplied -6an y fittings. One y fitting for the upper and one for the lower radiator hose. Then plum the lines from the upper radiator y fitting to one side of the passenger turbo and one to the driver side turbo. (Side doesnt matter, there inst a supply or return side on the turbo) do the same for the lower radiator hose. The pluming is complete.

8- plum in you vacuum line for the waste gates and the blow off valve. If you are going to be using a wideband install it at this time.

9- double check that all v-band clamps, tee bolt clamps, hose clamps, and any other bolts and nuts are tight. Put the coolant back in the car that us saved earlier. Check for leeks. If all is tight and no leeks then you are complete. Take the car to your tuner to get a tune



2005-2010 mustang gt S&H Performance twin turbo kit

Parts list

1-driver side turbo pipe
2- passenger side turbo
3- driver side down pipe
4- passenger side down pipe
5- 2 comp oiless turbos
6- 1 S&H Performance blow off valve kit
7- 2 38mm Tial waste gate kits
8- intercooler with bolts
9- radiator/intercooler support brace
10- hpx mass air meter and extension
11- 1 radiator hose adapters
12- 4.5" to 3.5" 90deg coupling- 1
13- 3.5" 90deg coupling- 1
14- 3.5" strait coupling- 1
15- 3" 90deg coupling- 1
16- 3" strait coupling- 4
17- 2.25" to 2" coupling- 2
18- 4.5" clamp- 1
19- 3.5" clamp- 5
20- 3"- clamp- 10
21- 2.25"clamp- 4
22- fiberglass wrap 25'
23- T3 turbo blanket- 2
24- 6an water line
25- 6an 3/8 fittings- 2
26- 6an y fittings- 2
27- 6an hose fittings- 12
28- t3 turbo gaskets- 2
29- 3.5" intercooler pipe from throttle body
30- 3.5" intercooler pipe to intercooler
31- 3" intercooler pipe with blow off valve flange
32- 3" intercooler pipe with y on it
33- Spectra filters- 2
34- short bend intake tube
35- s bend intake tube
36- 90 deg bend intake tube
37- 6an to 1/2" fitting- 4

 

[JeremyH]

Blow off valve installation

Locate the intercooler pipe with the 2" v-band flange mount. The S&H bov comes with an 11psi spring installed for stock vac 20-22. Kit also includes a 9psi spring for less vacuum setups 16-19 vac.

Install the air fitting on the banjo bolt, putting a flat washer on each side of the fitting and install hand tight on the top port of the bov.

Make sure you use the oring on the mounting flange prior to attaching the bov for a leak proof seal. Best way is to lay the oring on the mount on the intercooler pipe and then set the bov on top.

Attach the bov using the supplied v-band clamp, ensure the v grooves encompass both the mounting flange on the bov and on the intercooler pipe all the way around. Hand tighten the nut on the v-band flange and spin the bov to the orientation you desire. You can leave it loose for final fitting on the car or tighten it now. You can also move the air fitting on the top later to point in the direction you want for best vac hose routing.

The bov needs a boost/vac source on the engine side of the throttle body. You must route a vaccum hose from the top port air fitting to this source. Common areas to T in are the vac hose going to the frps on the driver side fuel rail or at the brake booster vac line back by the firewall. Ensure vacuum fittings are tight, we like to install a ziptie over the hose and barb especialy for higher boost applications. You can also use a tap on an intake manifold or boost/vac block for this source.

How to verify proper bov operation on your car. With the kit fully installed and the car running at warm idle. The bov can be slightly open or shut. It should be easy to reach over and push the valve open with your hand, if it is shut tight and hard to open check your vac line for leaks or you need a softer spring. While watching the bov, rev the engine the valve should snap fully shut and open and the return to its initial position.

 

[Bobby]

This install is one of the easiest turbo installs i have ever done.

 

[JeremyH]

Wastgate Setup

The kit comes with two Tial MVS 38mm valve vband flange wastgates. They are very compact and versatile. The gate has two top ports and three side ports to choose from to fit your application. It also has water ports for road racing applications.

I will walkthrough how to setup your gates for your car.

First your going to want to select the spring(s) size you want based on desired minimum boost level.

Remove the 6 screws holding the top chamber cover. Be careful as the top will be under pressure if there are springs installed.

Here is the spring chart for reference.

So my desired minimum boost level is 10psi, so I installed the red and green spring to get 10.15psi. This rating will very from setup to setup.
Set the spring in the correct size groove in the valve.

I reccommend using blue locktite on the top chamber screws when you reinstall them.

Carefully seat the top chamber on the springs in the correct groove, center it and while pushing down get two ooposite side screws started, then evenly tighten down all screws using a star pattern. Threads are aluminum so be careful not to overtighten. Snug them tight.

 

[JeremyH]

Wastegate Setup Continued

Next you can setup the air fittings and wastegate ports. I used 567 thread sealant on these connections for a good leak proof seal.

The air fitting barb should be assembled onto the banjo bolt with one washer on each side.

The Tial MVS has 3 side ports. Only one side port is used for pressure reference for gate control the other two ports must be plugged. These side ports are the three larger lower ports spaced around the body of the valve.

There are two top ports, one on the center top of the chamber and one on the side top. These are normaly vented to atmosphere for a basic setup using no controller or a simple boost controller. I reccommend plugging one and installing the air fitting barb in the other and orient it to prevent dirt and debris from falling into the gate. On the driver side I would plug the center top port and install the air fitting on the "side" top port. I am pointing to these two top ports below.

And here is a shot of the gate with plugs and fittings installed. Note, the kit comes with water fittings which I did not install but can be installed wether running water to them or not.

For best wastgate control you will want a pressure only source, common sources are the turbo compressor housing which can be tapped and then install a barb or piping post intercooler or in an intercooler end tank can be done. Some also use a pressure/vac source from the manifold.

 

[JeremyH]

Installing wastegates and turbine housings on the turbo feed pipes

So next up it mounting the wastegates and turbine housings to the feed pipes. I will show doing the driver side feed pipe (no 02 bung) first. The easiest way is to remove the turbine housing from the center section of the turbo. To do so remove the 6 14mm bolts and clips from the back of the turbine housing and then slide it off. This makes it easy to mount the turbine to the feed pipe and tighten all the brass nuts.

Shot of the backing plates.

On the driver side feed pipe the wastegate is installed upside down with the exit facing back and the 3"vband outlet on the turbine housing faces back as well. The turbine will only go on this way anyway as the wastgate would be in the way if you mounted it backwards. Install the turbine housing with gasket and fully tighten all the brass nuts. The gaskets will crush and seal so make sure the bolts are torqued down evenly, you can also use some copper rtv sealant to make sure you have a good seal here, I did not use any since there is a gasket, but it wouldn't hurt.

Next remove the orange tape from the bottom port holding the fire ring in place. Mount the bottom vband port with fire ring to the vband flange for the wastegate on the feed pipe. Slip on the low profile clamp and arrange it so the nut for tightening is facing down/back so it can be fully tighten easily once on the car. Just leave it snug enough so you can still rotate the gate on the flange for best positioning. The nut will be fully tightened later as mentioned.

 

[JeremyH]

Wastegate/turbine housing mounting continued

The passenger side pipe has the 02 bung for the front 02 sensor. Using a dab of antiseize on the front 02 sensor threads install and tighten it into the bung on the feed pipe. Then install the turbine housing and wastgate the same way you did on the drivers side pipe. On this pipe the outlet vband on the gate and the turbine housing faces away from the header toward the back of the car. Again position the nut for the wastegate flange down and back so it can be fully tigtened later on the car easily.

NOTE! The turbine wheels are machined for their turbine housings, it is critical that you install the center section back into its turbine housing and that you dont mix them up! So make sure you mark which is which when you take them apart!

 

[JeremyH]

Next install the water line fittings into the center sections of each turbo, you will want to use teflon tape or 567 thread sealant on the npt side of these fittings that installs into the center section of the turbos.

Next loosen the 6 bolts on the back of the compressor cover and then reinstall the 2 clips and 6 bolts loosely onto the turbine cover, ensure the wheels still spin freely. Rotate the center section of the turbo so the water fittings are pointing side to side parallel to the t3 flange (will be parallel to the ground when installed on the car) At this time you can tighten down the turbine housing bolts, do not over tighten wrench tight is fine. Leave the compressor cover bolts loose and clock the compressor cover so that it faces as shown below. Finally adjsutment and tightening of these bolts will be done later on the car.

With the turbine housing 6 bolts all tightened go ahead and install the blanket.

 

[JeremyH]

Passenger side turbo feed pipe

Next we will set up the passenger side. Follow the same procedure you did above. Here are some pics of how you want the passenger side clocked. Also install the 02 sensor first.

 

[JeremyH]

Downpipes

Next we set up the downpipes. There is an 02 bung in each pipe. They can be used for a wideband or widebands, you can put plugs in them or put your factory rear 02's in them to plug them. They will need to be turned off in the tune anyway.

For my setup I plugged one and installed my wideband in the other. Whatever you go with, do it now while its off the car and easy to do.

Note, for these pics, the way they are layed out is swapped from how they are on the car. The driver side pipe has the more bends to it and the passenger side downpipe is mostly straight.

You can go ahead and slide them into their hangers on the transmission mount under the car the cutouts go toward the outside of the car. Slide them into the hangers and let them sit.

Next we will mock up the feed pipes and turbos into the car, you will want a second set of hands for this.

 

[JeremyH]

Driver side turbo feed pipe

Two sets of hands make this a breeze. Feed the turbo and feed pipe up on the header collector and get the bolts started while your buddy lines up the turbine outlet to the down pipe and attaches the v-band loosely as well. You can now do the final clocking of the compressor cover the outlet should be about parallel to the ground/pointing up just slightly towards the passenger side of the car. (don't tighten just let as you may need final tweaking when you install the cold side pipe from the turbo outlets.)
Clock the waste gate in the direction you want down and away. I choose not to install the dump tube but if you use it go ahead and install it now. Tighten the clamp on the waste gate fully once you have it oriented the way you want.





Install the turbo pre filter and 45 degree pipe as shown.

 

[JeremyH]

Passenger side turbo feed pipe install

Follow the same process for passenger side installing the header bolts and vbands loosely, the header bolts are a bit harder to get to but can be down with a universal and some extensions. Plug in the front 02 and route out of the way. For the stock and my aftermarket k-member you have to grind/notch some of the k member where the a-arm mounts to get the turbo to line up. This pic gives you an idea of what I had to grind down.

Then install the pre filter and pipe for the passenger side turbo it routes up and out behind the strut and then 90's forward back toward the center of the car. its important to do this first before tightening down any exhaust bolts/clamps.

Do the final clocking of the compressor cover and test fit the coldside merge pipe using the couplers and t bolts to make sure you have them clocked correctly this intercooler pipe feeds forward on the passenger side over top of the k member towards the pipe with the bov installed. Once alignment is good remove this pipe for now and install the factory band clamps to the over axlepipes. Now do final alignment and begin tightening down the compressor cover bolts, header bolts down pipe vband and overaxle pipe band clamps evenly. You may choose to do this step after routing water lines to give you more room/play for them.

 

[JeremyH]

Intercooler and support brace

Now that the hotside is all mocked up we can get to the intercooler and coldside.

Support the radaitor with a jack and remove the 4 bolts holding the radaitor support brace in place on each side.
You will need to remove the 2 rubber grommets from the stock brace and install them on the new brace.
They install as shown below, I lubed them with a little motor oil and used a flattip screwdriver to slide them in place on the new brace.

Install the hpx-e maf into the maf flange on the intercooler, using a little silicone sealant or rtv sealant helps make for a nice leak proof seal. Tighten the 2 maf flange bolts, do not overtigten.

Next slide the intercooler up into the car behind the front bumper beam with the maf flange pointing towards the drivers side of the car and support it with the jack as well. I used a block of wood on the jack so it can hold the radiator and intercooler at the same time.

Slide the new brace back into the car with the long intercooler support legs facing foward, ensure the rubber gromments slide into the bottom mounting tabs on the radiator, it may make this step easier by removing the two top radiator mount brackets as shown and then bolt the brace in from below using the factory nuts. Again a second set of hands here really helps. Then reinstall the top radiator mounting brackets if you removed them earlier.

Next we will install the bottom mounting bolts for the intercooler to the support brace. You can go ahead and remove the jack now that the brace and radiator are supported, and guide the intercooler onto its moutning tabs. Locate the bag with bolts and washers for the intercooler mounting.

Slide the bolts through the bottom on each side using a lock washer and a flat washer, then install the remaining three washer on the top of the bolt before tightening it into the intercooler mounting tab. This keeps the bolt from bottoming out into the bottom of the intercooler and aligns the intercooler properly. Do not overtighten just wrench tight till the lock washer is compressed.

Locate the 3" 90 degree elbow and 3.5" 90 degree elbow silicone couplers. Go ahead and install the 3" elbow on the passenger side facing back, slip on two 3" t-bolt clamps one on each side and leave loose for now. Slip the 3.5" elbow onto the driverside where the maf is and face it toward the back of the car, slip on two 3.5" tbolts and leave loose for now as well.

 

[JeremyH]

Water lines

Before routing the rest of the coldside, now is the best time to route your water feed and return lines to the turbo's.

There is a hex head freeze plug on the block on the driver side towards the rear remove the plug and install the 3/8npt to 6an fitting. Route a 6an line with a T this will be the cold water feed to each turbo I did the feeds on the driver side of each turbo.

On the remaining outlets cut hose to length and T together each turbo's hot outlet, route the return forward to the upper radiator hose adaptor and install the return.


For 05/06 cars, install another 3/8npt to 6an fitting into the aluminum adaptor, again use locktite 567.
The adaptor should be installed in the passenger side upper radiator hose. Once you have the position for where you want the adaptor, cut the hose, you may want to remove an inch or so of hose from where you cut it to fit the adaptor. Slide the adaptor into the hose and orient it in the direction you want. Use the two 1.5" t-bolt clamps to tighten it up.

For 07-10 cars, position the supplied replacement upper radiator hose pipe along the same orientation as your oem upper radiator hose. Mark the hose on each end of the pipe where you will need to cut it, leave an inch addition so you can slide the pipe in on each end and clamp it. Once its cut install the coolant pipe and tighten it down with the 1.5" t-bolt clamps.

There are many different ways to do this so route them and tuck them whichever way works best for you. I choose to use some zip ties to keep them flush and for a clean install.

An hose end assembly video.

 

[JeremyH]

Coldside piping

Install the 4.5" to 3.5" 90 degree coupler with t-bolts and leave loose. It will later need clocked at an angle towards the drivers side of the car.

There are 2 3.5" sections of intercooler piping, the 90 degree shorter pipe goes from the 90 at the outlet of the intercooler by the maf. Install it loose going back and toward the center of the car, the longer section will connect using a straight 3.5" coupler and 2 t-bolts. Route it up to the throttle body coupler. Now that all parts are installed play with for best fitment and angle, from the intercooler it should run parallel to the ground for best clearance and then at the throttle body you will rotate the tb coupler at an angle towards the outside drivers side of the car. the pipe and couplers should not be touching any framing or coolant hoses. Once in place tighten down all the t-bolts snug, do not over tighten.


Next install the bov pipe the bov goes up by the washer reservoir, now is a good time to hook up the vacuum line. the other end of this pipe angles up toward the ac clutch and will route up over the k member install a 3" straight coupler on the other end and leave loose. The pipe will hang down for now put will rock up and be parallel to the ground once the next pipe is hooked up.

Next install the y intercooler pipe from the back of the k-member up and over and connect it to the bov pipe coupler. Install the 2" to 2.5" couplers onto the turbo compressor outlets. At this time you will do final clocking of the compressor covers to match up to the legs on the y intercooler pipe when properly placed the pipe should not be touching the oil pan. Once the compressor covers are clocked to match up to this pipe go ahead and tighten down the 6 compressor cover backing bolts on each turbo, snug them tight with a wrench do not over tighten. Now that all the cold side is in, make finall adjustments for clearance to the piping and couplers and then tighten all t-bolts.



Next you install the turbo air cleaner filters and pipes.

The small 45 degree pipe attaches to the drivers side turbo compressor cover inlet and routes up. Install a 3" coupler to the turbo and then the 45 degree 3" pipe and then the air filter. Adjust for clearance and then tighten the t-bolts and worm gear on the filter.

There isn't room for the passenger side filter in the same spot due to the orientation of the turbo for this end you will use the last 2 sections of 3" piping to route the filter forward and up. The longer piece installs first and goes outboard and forward, then the 90 attaches there and goes up and inboard. Use the remaining 3" couplers and t-bolts to install and route. Arrange for clearance again the pipe will not touch anything when properly aligned, then tighten the t-bolts, install the air filter and tighten the worm gear clamp.

 

[JeremyH]

Final Checks and Misc.

Now go over everything. Check all silicone couplers and t-bolts, ensure the couplers are fully seated in the intercooler piping and the t-bolts are tight. Overall the kit fits very well and flush and nothing should hang down, sag or rub. You may need to slightly adjust small things like fog light wiring etc make sure nothing is resting on any piping that could rattle or rub. Ensure the downpipes are solid and in the hangers, that the vbands are snug and the over axle pipes are clamped on and tight. Check all the water lines again and ensure the an lines are snug and wrench tight. Refill fluids, check everything over again, happy tuning!

Now post up any questions, requests for clarification or pictures of anything you need help with.

 

[Dillon Dollar]

Sub

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[Bobby]

Here are some pics of how it is laid out.

 

[Bobby]

hpx maf transfer program

Reserved.

 

[Bobby]

here are some updated pics of the engine bay