JPC Fuel System Issue

dsmith658

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So I shut off the car when I got home and the fuel pumps kept on running. I popped the trunk, unmounted the fuel pump relay assembly and took a look, and found this:

uploadfromtaptalk1459383417687.jpg

This looks to be 10 gauge wire provided by JPC so it's really confusing why it would be getting hot enough to melt the cover of the wires and let them short. Once I pulled them apart everything ran normally. The box is fed by 3 feet of 4 gauge directly from the battery.

The only other thing I'll mention is when I pulled the cover off the relay assembly one of the relays just fell out like it was hardly plugged in. Maybe this is the culprit (higher resistance on that circuit). There is not much holding these relays in besides a little tension.

Any ideas other ideas since I don't want to burn the car down?

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dsmith658

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I know there are better controllers out there but I am confused why I am having this problem since 10 gauge wire and 30 amp relays should handle the load.

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wbt

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Did you contact JPC? Seems that is the proper next step here.
 

dsmith658

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I'll be talking to them in the morning. Just trying to solve the problem tonight if someone had suggestions.

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jodadejss06gt

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The nature is fuel pumps draw lots of current and constantly. Things are bound to get hot. I've had the wires on my FC3 run hot too. They had been tinned what I thought to be properly too. Sometimes shit happens, in my case I was starting to run a little lean. Luckily I was able to fix the issue before any damage.
 

dsmith658

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Right now I am running both pumps anytime the car is running. In playing with it I discovered if only one pump is running then the running pump pulls less current and the wire doesn't get hot. I think the solution is running a hobbs switch on the second pump. I didn't want to do that because it adds another point of failute.

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Timmbo

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Right now I am running both pumps anytime the car is running. In playing with it I discovered if only one pump is running then the running pump pulls less current and the wire doesn't get hot. I think the solution is running a hobbs switch on the second pump. I didn't want to do that because it adds another point of failute.

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It's kinda crazy to run two pumps at all times when your not in boost. Leads to more unnecessary electrical load, wear and tear and heating up the fuel. I've run a Hobbs boost switch for my second pump for two years and no issue. I installed a very small LED in the dash that lets me know that when I mash the pedal that it's working.
 

dsmith658

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It's kinda crazy to run two pumps at all times when your not in boost. Leads to more unnecessary electrical load, wear and tear and heating up the fuel. I've run a Hobbs boost switch for my second pump for two years and no issue. I installed a very small LED in the dash that lets me know that when I mash the pedal that it's working.
The LED in the dash idea definitely makes it easier to pull the trigger...

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JeremyH

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I also run staggered second pump on a hobbs no problems. Like mentioned lots of benefit there. What pumps do you run?
 

Sky Render

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It's kinda crazy to run two pumps at all times when your not in boost. Leads to more unnecessary electrical load, wear and tear and heating up the fuel. I've run a Hobbs boost switch for my second pump for two years and no issue. I installed a very small LED in the dash that lets me know that when I mash the pedal that it's working.

The LED in the dash thing is a cool idea.

You should label it "Ludicrous Speed."
 

JeremyH

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Contrary to what JPC will tell you those 465 pumps are big, they put a lot of heat into the fuel especially when two or 3 are run full on and you run your car more than just down the track. My guess would be excessive current draw and heat led to your issue.
 

dsmith658

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Contrary to what JPC will tell you those 465 pumps are big, they put a lot of heat into the fuel especially when two or 3 are run full on and you run your car more than just down the track. My guess would be excessive current draw and heat led to your issue.

Times to hook up the Hobbs and go plaid! Thanks for the help. I think I am going to ditch their controller box and the 10 gauge wire too. Go separate 8 gauge feeds.
 

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