Just installed nitrous

[Brad05GT]

Just got a nitrous outlet plate kit just need plugs and a retune any suggestions of what’s actually a good safe number? I see in the search anywhere from 75-125 I won’t be using it all the time just occasionally at the track and maybe a few times other places car has intake and exhaust besides the no2

 

[JC SSP]

I strongly suggest you start with the lowest HP setting and work your way up...

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I strongly suggest you start with the lowest HP setting and work your way up...

This.
Theoretically you could go as high as a 125 shot but it's better to start at 75 and see if you're happy.
The engine will be OK with a 125 shot as long as your fuel jetting is correct and it doesn't run lean. Your biggest concern should be the weak 10-spline tranny input shaft. Even a 75 shot could be enough to snap it.

 

[Cum Grano Salis]

There goes the neighborhood! Meaning normal car parts will not hold up… nothing exempt, have fun and never miss shift. A real roller-coaster ride.

 

[86GT351]

I strongly suggest you start with the lowest HP setting and work your way up...

Correct. Nitrous can be very volatile. Very easy to melt a piston or 2.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

op i put 507rwhp to the ground through a stock tremec 3650 10 spline input shaft and it was fine on a street tire application. I had the luxury of endless boost without concern for a refill so i was always in the boost on entrance ramps, long straights with no traffice and at the track. the only concern you may have would be at a dead hook on a slick on a very sticky track leaving at 600000000000 rpms. granted the input shaft is not a 26 spline like on a t56 or t6060 or even the 23 spline getrag but the shaft short of dead hooking holds up okay. nothing is guarranteed. enjoy the giggle gas and fix it if it breaks. btw the car had 40k on it when i sold it and the next owner beat it like dirty area rug being cleaned on a clothes line compared to me and the car ran for years. all that power was also on stock 4.6L 3V internals.

Enjoy it. just work up to it as suggested.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

op i put 507rwhp to the ground through a stock tremec 3650 10 spline input shaft and it was fine on a street tire application.

The OP has a 5R55S automatic, though I agree with your statement about the TR3650.

Correct. Nitrous can be very volatile. Very easy to melt a piston or 2.

The pistons melt when combustion becomes overly hot due to a lean condition. That's why it's important to make sure there's enough fuel to absorb the heat. While nitrous does cool the incoming air charge, it isn't enough to prevent the engine from detonating if it's running lean. Depending on how much nitrous you're running, the ignition timing will be retarded a few degrees as an additional safety measure.

 

[Brad05GT]

Ok I’ll start low for sure I don’t want to break it right away just running nitto 555r tires in the back so it should break free on launch I also want to start the nitrous in 2nd gear to east the pain on the trans I’m excited can’t wait to give it a shot and see what it can do

 

[07 Boss]

Correct. Nitrous can be very volatile. Very easy to melt a piston or 2.

Any power adder can be volatile. Nitrous is perfectly safe if done correctly, same as adding boost. If you put more oxygen in the mix you need more fuel and proper timing. Nitrous is the best bang for the buck as far as power adders go.

 

[Laga]

The OP has a 5R55S automatic, though I agree with your statement about the TR3650.



The pistons melt when combustion becomes overly hot due to a lean condition. That's why it's important to make sure there's enough fuel to absorb the heat. While nitrous does cool the incoming air charge, it isn't enough to prevent the engine from detonating if it's running lean. Depending on how much nitrous you're running, the ignition timing will be retarded a few degrees as an additional safety measure.

Technically, a lean condition creates less heat. Anything above 14.7 a/f is lean. Not running rich enough is what causes damage. 14.6 is still considered rich.

 

[Brad05GT]

Ok so I know I should get a dyno tune but for the mean time I have a junk bama 91 race tune can I just pull timing from that and run it with colder plugs? I don’t really want to do a email tune for it

 

[redfirepearlgt]

Any power adder can be volatile. Nitrous is perfectly safe if done correctly, same as adding boost. If you put more oxygen in the mix you need more fuel and proper timing. Nitrous is the best bang for the buck as far as power adders go.

but the bottle is always empty right when u need it.....lol

 

[Brad05GT]

Lol

 

[07 Boss]

but the bottle is always empty right when u need it.....lol

That's why I used to always run with two bottles. Kinda like my BBQ at home. Two propane canisters hooked up and when one runs out, flip the valve over and boom. Gives plenty of time to get a refill and never run out. Point being if you do it right it's fine and cheap. In 20 some odd years running nitrous I've never burnt up a piston. Have gone through some spark plugs in my day but never blew a motor from running lean, too much timing is another story but again that happens with nitrous or boost.

 

[07 Boss]

Ok so I know I should get a dyno tune but for the mean time I have a junk bama 91 race tune can I just pull timing from that and run it with colder plugs? I don’t really want to do a email tune for it

Yes you can but be wary. Generally speaking you want to retard timing 1.5* to 2.5* for every 50 hp. I have always use 2*. When you are retarding timing with a handheld I believe it only adjust the timing at WOT. If you have your nitrous hooked up with a window switch and it only comes on at WOT you should be fine. Manually operated systems need a little more attention to the rest of the timing table. Yes you should run colder plugs. Also look for plugs with the shortest ground strap. Modern plugs tent to have long center projected electrodes to increase combustion efficiency, which increases ground strap length. Best Advice I can give you on plugs is to get ones with the center electrode as short as possible and side gap the strap or get something called surface-gap spark plugs that get rid of the ground strap all together. I believe autolite came out with these about 10 years ago but don't know if they are available for our cars. But a side gapped short electrode two step colder plug has always been good for me for a couple hundred hp set up.

 

[Juice]

Technically, a lean condition creates less heat. Anything above 14.7 a/f is lean. Not running rich enough is what causes damage. 14.6 is still considered rich.

With any power adder, your safe AFR will be in the 11.x-12 range. 14.6 is still lean with E10. 14.1 is stoic for E10.

 

[Laga]

With any power adder, your safe AFR will be in the 11.x-12 range. 14.6 is still lean with E10. 14.1 is stoic for E10.

The point I was making is that many people believe that a lean condition causes damage. The most heat is created at stoic. Anything above that (lean) actually burns cooler. So, running lean does not cause the damage. It’s not running rich enough (but still rich) to cool the chamber. You can adjust stoic numbers for whatever fuel you have.

 

[JC SSP]

I have used nitrous (dry and wet systems; plate & foggers) for many, many years and have learned a few things... spark plugs, fuel system, proper timing, auto activation, bottle temps... but the most important thing I have learned is WOT use is essential! Part-throttle use can lead to backfiring and puddling inside the intake manifold.

Being you have an automatic you might be able to use a button activation, but in reality a RPM activation switch or progressive controller should be used just to make things simpler and you as the driver can focus on the car and less on pressing & depressing a button.

I have to ask, did you buy a brand-new kit designed for your application or are you pulling parts together to do your own custom set up? Nothing wrong with either one, but mixing and matching systems, solenoids and jets could be problematic... Also, some racing bodies mandate a blow offline/discharge tube and N2O lines must be routed outside the car and not through the interior. Guilty as charge! LOL

Remember, 4.6 3V intakes are plastic, the CM plates are thin metal, MAF are sensitive, etc. You could damage something with a simple backfire. This is all repairable (for the most part) but understanding there might be some hiccups until you get things dialed in.

I have seen and heard of engines being damaged by N2O (head gasket, piston or rod damage) which usually occur after constant abuse or over revving, missing a gear with a manual trans while at high RPM and using big HP of nitrous being activated.

Enjoying juicing and the bottle gets empty very quickly especially at high HP numbers.

 

[Brad05GT]

I bought a new complete kit with plate

 

[Brad05GT]

I wish I could hide the hoses and solenoids better any suggestions?. Everything is done and ready 75 shot nozzles are in spark plugs will be in tomorrow went with hto one step colder