Kenne Bell BAP install with pics...

mac10chap

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lol, good ol' Taco Bill. If you would have kept reading that sticky, you'd found about 50 more DIY's
 

StangEd

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You know what...I just did a search and now this is actually the only bap install that comes up in the DIY...so guess it works out.
 
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mac10chap

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You know what...I just did a search and now this is actually the only bap install that comes up in the DIY...so guess it works out.


I wasnt talking about here. I was talking about over at Mustangforums. Where you found the DIY for the BAP, there are about 50 other DIY's. Thing is, most people here are (or have) frequented mustangforums so we know that they are there. Reason why we dont sticky that link because we can just go over there at will to look at them.
 

StangEd

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I wasnt talking about here. I was talking about over at Mustangforums. Where you found the DIY for the BAP, there are about 50 other DIY's. Thing is, most people here are (or have) frequented mustangforums so we know that they are there. Reason why we dont sticky that link because we can just go over there at will to look at them.
Oh Ok. I am a member there, but hardly ever visit.
 

mr. anderson

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I have a couple other questions, should I use the hobbs switch or just short the wires together? also is I am targetting to output 650 rwhp, what % should I go with on the controller? I am gonna run the FRPP 60 lb injectors.
thanks fellas!
 

mr. anderson

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cool thanks! I was thinking the variable fuel pump voltage on the 11's tied with changing the fuel voltage by the sudden change by the hobbs switch would be a little to much to tune for, and would make it a pain in the butt.
 

waketek516

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I was planning on shorting out the hobbs switch like Taco-Bill's writeup, but my BAP didn't come with the voltage controller (the dial).

Do I just install it the same as Taco-Bill's, and ignore the mounting of the dial?
 

mr. anderson

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Jeremy?

is this the wire for the 11+ (violet with the light green stripe-looks light blue)

rba6q9.jpg


waketek516, I would call kenne bell and ask them. Not sure if anyone knows off hand, you may need to buy the controller if it doesn't just go to the max setting (50%) if it isn't connected.
 
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JeremyH

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This may help, this is the correct wire
a6cd095f-93b0-ec0d.jpg



And wiring diagram confirms it is a violet wire with green stripe, I think it just looks white in the above pic.


2011fpm.jpg
 
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waketek516

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Waketek516, I would call Kenne Bell and ask them. Not sure if anyone knows off hand, you may need to buy the controller if it doesn't just go to the max setting (50%) if it isn't connected.

I tested this myself - and soldering the two wires that would go to the controller does indeed output the max voltage.

I was getting a consistent 17.5v readout on the BAP after wiring that way. (14.1v prior to soldering them). :thumb:
 

Justinjor

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Is the BAP supposed to be wired in before or after the Fuel pressure control module?

I wired mine up as show in the link above but I'm not 100% sure it is correct. Should the thick orange wire that goes from the FPCM plug to the fuel pump be cut and the BAP wired in or is the purple one correct?

The fuel pump has 2 big thick wires, one orange and one white but I'm not seeing the full voltage at either one. With the BAP disconnected and the car running, I see 8.2V at the orange wire, and with the BAP connected, I see a 11.3V. Is that correct? Should I see the full 17V at the pump or does the computer regulate that down and only increase based on load(demand)?

With the BAP wired up, I measure 13.24V going into the fused red wire(from the purple wire) and 17.05V coming out of the other red BAP wire(going to the plug).

Any help is appreciated.
 

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