Lca relo brackets

[miketexass788]

Do I really need lower control arm relocation brackets?

My car has eibach pro kit springs, d specs, bmr lca( which i plan on changing), and bmr adj panhard bar( which im plan on changing for fay2 watt link).

Any input Sam Strano or anybody else?

 

[JA BoostedSTANG]

Well for road racing and auto x you want your lower control arms close to level, for me I got them they have two holes so ucan find which one works fir you. For drag racing you want the rear of the control arm to be lower then the front which is were relo brackets help a lot if your lowered. One thing I would recomend is to weld them in I bolted and welded them in and they have help up great against some pretty harsh lapping days and auto x's

 

[miketexass788]

Well for road racing and auto x you want your lower control arms close to level, for me I got them they have two holes so ucan find which one works fir you. For drag racing you want the rear of the control arm to be lower then the front which is were relo brackets help a lot if your lowered. One thing I would recomend is to weld them in I bolted and welded them in and they have help up great against some pretty harsh lapping days and auto x's

I forgot to mention that I have them on my car, I was just wondering if I actually need them or not.

 

[JA BoostedSTANG]

Well take a look at your rear lca and if it is level then yes but if there angled up you dont

 

[Sam Strano]

Do I really need lower control arm relocation brackets?

My car has eibach pro kit springs, d specs, bmr lca( which i plan on changing), and bmr adj panhard bar( which im plan on changing for fay2 watt link).

Any input Sam Strano or anybody else?

Do you really need them? Ahhh. no. I don't have them in any of my cars---and all are lowered. And none wheelhop. In fact stability wise I prefer not having them, as you induce some stability enhancing roll steer--and a did you notice your wheelhop that is inherent stock probably quit when you lowered the car *without* them?

Also they get in the way of adjustable rear swaybars--which is something to consider since you are leaning to a Fays2 Watts link as well. My rear bar is meant to work along with a Fays2 link.

Here's the deal. The more serious you are about drag racing the more you might want LCA brackets (I sell both UMI and Steeda). But beyond that there isn't any real reason to run them.

 

[miketexass788]

Well for road racing and auto x you want your lower control arms close to level, for me I got them they have two holes so ucan find which one works fir you. For drag racing you want the rear of the control arm to be lower then the front which is were relo brackets help a lot if your lowered. One thing I would recomend is to weld them in I bolted and welded them in and they have help up great against some pretty harsh lapping days and auto x's

I forgot to mention that I have them on my car, I was just wondering if I actually need them or not.

 

[miketexass788]

Do you really need them? Ahhh. no. I don't have them in any of my cars---and all are lowered. And none wheelhop. In fact stability wise I prefer not having them, as you induce some stability enhancing roll steer--and a did you notice your wheelhop that is inherent stock probably quit when you lowered the car *without* them?

Also they get in the way of adjustable rear swaybars--which is something to consider since you are leaning to a Fays2 Watts link as well. My rear bar is meant to work along with a Fays2 link.

Here's the deal. The more serious you are about drag racing the more you might want LCA brackets (I sell both UMI and Steeda). But beyond that there isn't any real reason to run them.

Okay well im gonna get a set of those adj sway bars, so im taking the relo bracket off.

 

[Sam Strano]

I do not think you need them anyway. The Shelby GT I autox (and my GT that's also lowered) don't have them, and we have no wheelhop issues what so ever.

 

[Kaldar142]

What about for higher HP cars like mine? When I took mine off my car would just get ridiculous amounts of wheel spin. So I put the Steeda ones in and made them level... Much better.

 

[Sam Strano]

Changing the angles on the rear arms moves the instant center of the car. The more tail down the arms are the more rearward the instant center is and that can enhance traction. Of course the trade off is the balance is effected, and running them in a tail down position vs. level makes the best traction, but promotes roll oversteer--and a can cause power on understeer as the rear traction increases.

I don't know what kind of limited slip is in use, but for traction I start there. I also don't love lowering the cars too far as taller makes for better power down. And if I mess with control arm angles I prefer to do the top one to get an instant center change rather than the lowers since you don't get the associated roll street changes from altering the upper arm's angle.

 

[Cookiemonster]

This thread got me thinking.. I hope its not to far off topic.

Griggs uses a torque arm in their setup. What advantages and disadvantages comes with that over an upper link?

the only thing i know about torque arms is if they are set up wrong you can get some brake hop..

 

[Sam Strano]

Torque arms are something I'm very, very familiar with having had F-bodies over the years (which come with TA's).

I like the 3 link better. It's more compact, lighter and effective. A TA is heavy, adds a lot of unsprung weight where it's not necessary as far as I'm concerned. I don't sell Griggs, but do sell Max. Motorsport... Both control the rotation of the axle. Why do it with a much larger and heavier part than you need? You won't find TA's on GT1/Trans Am type cars, but 3-links.

 

[RedMosesSC]

My car is lowered without Reloc brackets, i have no complaints about the traction and dont have any wheel hop but its been pointed out to me that my LCA's are NOT parallel with the ground, they are at a slight angle upwards twrds the rear. I been told i should get Reloc Brackets to correct the angle, its been a year since ive lowered and i have yet to do it. Its on my list but i have not noticed any traction issues, so...

 

[Kaldar142]

Changing the angles on the rear arms moves the instant center of the car. The more tail down the arms are the more rearward the instant center is and that can enhance traction. Of course the trade off is the balance is effected, and running them in a tail down position vs. level makes the best traction, but promotes roll oversteer--and a can cause power on understeer as the rear traction increases.

I don't know what kind of limited slip is in use, but for traction I start there. I also don't love lowering the cars too far as taller makes for better power down. And if I mess with control arm angles I prefer to do the top one to get an instant center change rather than the lowers since you don't get the associated roll street changes from altering the upper arm's angle.

Right, from my understanding though by me running them parallel to the ground will allow my lowered car to have proper geometry and maximize traction though, right?

-Joe

 

[Sam Strano]

My car is lowered without Reloc brackets, i have no complaints about the traction and dont have any wheel hop but its been pointed out to me that my LCA's are NOT parallel with the ground, they are at a slight angle upwards twrds the rear. I been told i should get Reloc Brackets to correct the angle, its been a year since ive lowered and i have yet to do it. Its on my list but i have not noticed any traction issues, so...

Ahh, the old it ain't broke so let's fix is anyway thinking.... I guess that's where I go wrong in my parts sales (not really, I just can't do it).

If someone said, you HAVE to have this alignment setting, would you buy it? How about his EXACT tune? It's like anything else--what someone deems correct or not, right or wrong, is in the eye of the beholder. I look at this with an "what's wrong" sort of eye and don't do things just because. If there is a problem I address it. I don't if there is no problem. That can't just be me, can it?

 

[SoundGuyDave]

I look at this with an "what's wrong" sort of eye and don't do things just because. If there is a problem I address it. I don't if there is no problem. That can't just be me, can it?

And that, right there, folks, is the heart and soul of chassis tuning. You don't make a car handle by hanging parts on it, you make it handle by balancing the car's behaviour.

If your car doesn't wheelhop or burn up the rears on exit, AND doesn't respond in a weird or unpredictable nature, then what is to be gained by changing the angle of the control arms?

From experience: I ran relo's when I was coming up the HPDE ladder, but the "points cost" was too high when I moved into TT. I honestly didn't notice any real difference in the way the car behaved. What I did lose was the ability to drop the arms down when I went to the drag strip, but that was all. What was gained by pulling them? I shaved about 10lbs of unsprung weight and picked up 5" or so of clearance under the suspension. With my measly 305 rwhp, yes, I can get the car into wheelhop on a static launch, but when I'm already going 70? Nah.

Sam's dead right: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Don't go LOOKING for problems to worry about!

 

[GerRod]

Do I really need lower control arm relocation brackets?

My car has eibach pro kit springs, d specs, bmr lca( which i plan on changing), and bmr adj panhard bar( which im plan on changing for fay2 watt link).

Any input Sam Strano or anybody else?

Mike, I see you and I are in the same city. I'm willing to take the BMR LCAs and relo brackets off your hands if they are in good condition.

Let me know...

 

[foolio2k4]

same for me. Im lowered and the LCA are not parallel to the ground. I have no wheelhop whatsoever. I love the way it currently handles.

 

[Cookiemonster]

Torque arms are something I'm very, very familiar with having had F-bodies over the years (which come with TA's).

I like the 3 link better. It's more compact, lighter and effective. A TA is heavy, adds a lot of unsprung weight where it's not necessary as far as I'm concerned. I don't sell Griggs, but do sell Max. Motorsport... Both control the rotation of the axle. Why do it with a much larger and heavier part than you need? You won't find TA's on GT1/Trans Am type cars, but 3-links.

Its not like it adds weight in a bad spot though.. Im still currious to why Griggs uses it in their cars.

 

[Sam Strano]

not that it's much weight, but not in a bad spot? Unsprung weight isn't ideal...