Meth injection question

inglimer

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Have an 06 with a procharger running 10# boost, 33# injectors, SLP catback and dual GT 500 fuel pumps. The car has 22000 on it and I don't believe has been abused.
It was dyno tuned by a Lund rep last week at KCMAXX in Kansas City and made 419 rwhp.
My question is what kind of power increase would I be likely to see going to a Snow meth injection kit and a retune, or would I be better off respecting the shortblock and be happy with the 419?
Any alternative approaches to the meth injection would also be appreciated.
Thanks.
Jack
 

Wild White Pony

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I wouldn't be looking at meth, at least at this point. A smaller pulley and bigger fuel injectors should take you to 450-475 and respect the block. After a built block and pushing over 500 you may need to go that direction. I don't know much about Procharger outputs or discharge temps or if you have an intercooler but don't look at meth as an alternative for making hp when you can do that with more boost. Meth gives you an octane boost which allows you to add more timing, and the water helps with IAT temps. I look at meth as a support item for making hp.

Suggestions IMO:
Intercooler if you don't have one.
Bigger fuel injectors.
Smaller Pulley for more boost.
 
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46addict

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What's done to the exhaust? Longtube headers and/or cat delete will lower boost by about 1psi and free up some power. But as said before you will be better off with bigger injectors (at least 47 lb/hr so you have room to grow), smaller pulley, and retune will get you the most bang for the buck.
 

inglimer

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Sounds like bigger injectors, smaller pulley and a retune, ( have the intercooler ).I won't be drag racing, just want a strong Street car, so 450-475 whp should keep the shortblock in one piece?
 

inglimer

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The opinions here and from several tuners in the Kansas City area are pretty evenly divided between the shortblock is safe into the 450-475 range and they start coming apart at 450hp and up.
Not worth the risk for 30 or so HP, I suppose.
Not to jump subjects, but the only shop I have checked with so far wanted about 10k for a shortblock build.
Is that a little steep, or typical?
Looking for something in the 550 HP range.
 

o2sys

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It's on the steep side but if you include all the miscellaneous stuff you might want to change while the motor is out it's not too far.
 

BruceH

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The opinions here and from several tuners in the Kansas City area are pretty evenly divided between the shortblock is safe into the 450-475 range and they start coming apart at 450hp and up.
Not worth the risk for 30 or so HP, I suppose.
Not to jump subjects, but the only shop I have checked with so far wanted about 10k for a shortblock build.
Is that a little steep, or typical?
Looking for something in the 550 HP range.

Search the site. Plenty of people have done their own short blocks for far less. If you have a shop pull the motor, tear it down, send it off to the machine shop, reassemble and reinstall it's going to cost. They have to pay taxes, employees, utilities, etc.

If you are will to do the work yourself it can be done for around $2k to $3k depending on how many bargains you find and what you deem essential to the build.

Forged rods and pistons are the main components that need to be replaced. After that stock components will suffice. The stock crank is very strong, the tty main and head bolts hold up to very high boost and hp levels.

A good machine shop is essential to a build. Assembling the parts isn't difficult.
 

46addict

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Forged rods and pistons are the main components that need to be replaced. After that stock components will suffice. The stock crank is very strong, the tty main and head bolts hold up to very high boost and hp levels.

A good machine shop is essential to a build. Assembling the parts isn't difficult.

When checking bearing clearances, doesn't that need to be done with the bolts torqued down? If I have to unbolt the caps to take off material, I'll need to buy a new set of bolts if they're TTY, correct? Or skip that part and buy ARP stuff?
 

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