MMD hood vent vs GT500 heat extractor hood insert

Shok

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Any one have some first hand experience with these to give me an idea which is better at lowering under hood temps? I'm not worried about coolant temp even tho I know it's all somewhat connected, I just want to lower air temp under the hood.
I'm also concerned which of these two options is friendlier to car washes and rain.
Links to the two options I'm considering.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/hood-insert-1012gt500.html
And
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mmd-hood-vent-0509.html

This is for a 2005 GT. thanks!
 

Shok

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Okay, so big hole it is! How is it with rain and car washes?
 

Powered by Ford

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These work great.



These are one step above decoration.


Zack or whatever his screen name has a how to thread on the GT500 vent install on a GT hood somewhere.

DOB is right. Venting at the rear of the hood does not help cooling or reduce lift. What you want is a path of least resistance for the air to flow through instead of it all "crashing" into the engine. The GT500 duct will be the best option or something from Track Spec.

This is also why race cars typically have their radiators angled to further optimize their vented hoods.
 

d3vst8r96gt

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cutting a hole will evacuate heat period. putting one in the wrong place will just work less efficiently.

The wiper cowl would be the worst place and as you get closer to the front of the car the better(infront of the radiator is pointless. Every make/model is a little differnet

The biggest thing to consider is how the cooling system on our fords was designed. I know on my truck and mustang (not an s197) they are bottom feeders so cooling airflow comes in the front of the car and out the bottom.

There is alot to it diffusers belly pans vents splitters all do different things. Comparing a race cars parts for functionality you have to look at the whole car; splitter diffuser skirts belly pan etc. I have been reading a lot about it lately super interesting stuff.
 

Department Of Boost

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DOB is right. Venting at the rear of the hood does not help cooling or reduce lift. What you want is a path of least resistance for the air to flow through instead of it all "crashing" into the engine. The GT500 duct will be the best option or something from Track Spec.

This is also why race cars typically have their radiators angled to further optimize their vented hoods.

WTF do you know wind tunnel boy?!?!? :)
 

Shok

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Yes I've seen that post, its what gave me the idea that I could make something like that work. Good to know there are no issues.
I'll also be sticking some temp probes in just to see what benefit I get. I think my recent alt failure as well as my belt starting to shred had to do at least in small part with the heat build up as I went thru mountain roads in 90+ degree heat with long hill climbs thrown in.
I know it couldn't have helped :)
 

07 Boss

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Shok

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Well what I have in my favor is my hood is already kind of screwed up so I don't feel bad making the cut. I do remember a post where the the vent sat a little high, I'll probably play with scrap metal or fiberboard to just figure out exactly what kind of cut I want to make.
 

mrt2you

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I did the GT500 vent last year.
I never got around to doing a how to thread about it.

here are a couple pics.

the hole will be this big

 

mrt2you

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I am using a hood that had heavy corrosion in the seams. the owner gave it to me after I painted and installed his new one. so I had nothing to loose if I messed up. I am cutting the hole in the hood without ever bolting it on the car. I didn't do it exactly as I am describing here. I cut the hole 4 times to finally get it right. the dimentions I am giving hopefully you will only have to cut once.
to start I measured a 13 GT500 hood vent from the rear corner of the hood to the upper corners of the vent on the L & R side. then did the same to the other side.
I then drew a curve for each corner from the hood corner to locate the vent.
I lost this pic when I changed computers.

next I placed the vent in the center of my X I made from my measurements and traced the scoop on the hood.
you can see the X in the bottom of the pic.



the scoop has a stud in the center to hold it on. as seen in this pic.
there are 2 tabs on the scoops. remove with a side cutter you don't need
them. if you look closely at the pic you can see the leftover tabs.




drill a 1/8" hole in the center line of the hood, this is where the stud go into to locate the scoop for better tracing.



once you have the vent located wipe off your rough tracing marks and make some more accurate ones now that the vent will lay tight against the hood.
now that you have accurate tracings lay a 3/4" tape line below the top line and taper the side lines from 3/4" to 1/2" on the bottom line.
I didn't do it like I described above. I made a smaller cut then made a more accurate one once I hade a better idea on how it fit.

my rough cut about 1" away from my trace lines. the masking tape is 3/4 for size reference.




now a more accurate one. the blue fine line is 1/2".




you will have to trim the braces on the back side larger than your cuts on the top. it will help to prevent cutting the top side of the hood by sliding a small piece of steel between the braces and the hood.

here is the bottom of the hood braces after trimming.



the bottom of the vent has 3 tabs molded into the channel as seen in this pic. you will have to cut slots for them in the hood to allow the vent to slide in. if you look closely you can see a cut in the bottom for the tab.



once you have cleaned the edges of your cuts it will now just slide in.




when I do this next time I will move the vent about 2" higher in the hood. it's a little to far foreword in the hood. it is 3/4 of the vent directly over the radiator. also 12 and up GT500 hood the area where the vent is located is raised. it lightly hit my heat exchanger tank. I had to lower the sway bar cross member 1/4" and move the tank about 1" towards the engine for clearance. be careful how far you move the hole back. the fuse box is located on the passenger side of the hole about 1" back.
I think if you have stock plastic tanks everything should clear without mods.



the vent slides right in. you have to apply 2 sided tape around the outside edge to help hold it tight to the hood. if you put a nut on the stud in the earlier pic the vent can't fly off. it's held on by the lower groove and the stud.

on the 12 and up hoods the area where the vent goes is recessed to allow a flush fit. on your hood you won't have that so your vent will be on top of the hood.

hopefully tomorrow I will post a pic of the finished hood installed on the car.

the whole process there was a LOT of cutting. here is a pic of the waste aluminum on the floor.

 
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mrt2you

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I have several hoods.

when I have more time I will do a better how to on the vent mod in the correct place. I will also do a how to on installing some aerocatch hood pins without cutting the bottom of the hood.
 

Shok

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Thanks for all the pics and the description, I'll definitely come back to them when it's time to cut.
 

mrt2you

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Just a critique. Your placement is the most attractive, but not the most functional. You want the vent behind the "exhaust" of the radiator. So further back.


when I did the vent mod it was in November. my car was in storage so I couldn't bolt it on to check for the correct location.
I just measured a 13 Gt500 that was on the local ford dealer and cut the hole in approximately the same place as a 13 GT500.

when I do the next hood I will probably move the vent back about 2". I don't want to go to far back because it won't look right.
the one thing I noticed is the passenger side of the hole is close to the under hood fuse block now. if I move the vent back 2" I think the edge will be really close to the fuses. will this cause problems?
worse case I could plastic weld on a flap to the vent to keep the water away from the fuses..
 

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