mods vs miles

[Mitchell205]

Get a 09 or newer cts-v when you pay off your loans.


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[fdjizm]

Keep it and mod it, I am keeping my mustang forever.
I knew that when I bought it, paid off modded car ftw.

 

[Docktour Z]

Thanks for all the solid replies. My commute is roughly 12 miles there and 12 back daily plus personal use. My goals are 450whp after I invested into refreshing the vehicle. The motor would be refreshed and built, transmission refreshed including clutch and rear would be too, all suspension components would be refreshed with brakes too. I just didn't feel I had all the answers or insight. I know the 5.0 almost makes the power I'm after out of the box. I am good with a wrench with anything outside of electrical i can do aside from building a motor. It sounds like I should keep myself out of a payment especially trying to go fast. My last car was a VW GTI that ran into a lot of gremlins around 100k so I am apprehensive about the next few years with her.

 

[marcspaz]

eh... if you do the refresh like you say you are... you are basically going to have a new car anyway. If you haven't had gremlins by now, I doubt you will.

BTW... if you are doing a suspension refresh too, I would check on ball joints, A-Arm bushings, track bar bushings, and rear upper and lower control arm bushings. Those are some very cheap and easy items to replace that will make your car's ride feel new again.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[Wes06]

Keep it and mod it, I am keeping my mustang forever.
I knew that when I bought it, paid off modded car ftw.

Same here.

This car is staying with me.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

Trade

 

[marcspaz]

It's my daily fair weather "beater". It's loud, in your face, and a fun commuter..... But I'm NEVER selling the "Boss".

I've always loved your car. I feel like it exemplifies all things American Muscle.

Trade

You're consistent, I'll give you that. LoL

 

[darrens07gt]

Trade that thing in!

My car has 50K on it and I still plan to trade it in ASAP. Listen to me on this one. If you start heavily modding a 4.6 motor you will break stuff. Lot's of stuff. The 4.6 and TR3650 were not built to handle a lot of power. Neither are proven to be reliable at anything 400+ to the wheels.

But the 5.0 Mustangs are a different story. With just exhaust, bolt ons and a tune you can be running low 11's in the quarter mile. That's about where you would be with a boosted 4.6. The big difference is the 5.0 would be reliable while the 4.6 would be a ticking time bomb.

I would either trade it in OR invest in a built motor and tranny right off the bat. That way you could at least sell your current engine and transmission while they still work.

Good luck with whatever decision you make.

 

[thump_rrr]

Trade that thing in!

My car has 50K on it and I still plan to trade it in ASAP. Listen to me on this one. If you start heavily modding a 4.6 motor you will break stuff. Lot's of stuff. The 4.6 and TR3650 were not built to handle a lot of power. Neither are proven to be reliable at anything 400+ to the wheels.

But the 5.0 Mustangs are a different story. With just exhaust, bolt ons and a tune you can be running low 11's in the quarter mile. That's about where you would be with a boosted 4.6. The big difference is the 5.0 would be reliable while the 4.6 would be a ticking time bomb.

I would either trade it in OR invest in a built motor and tranny right off the bat. That way you could at least sell your current engine and transmission while they still work.

Good luck with whatever decision you make.

Bullshit.

Many have been over 450-500 for years.

I have put over 70,000 miles on my factory shortblock in the past 9 years.
It ran [email protected] in 2006 when it had 450rwhp. It's been at 543rwhp since 2008. It has over 2,600 1/4 mile passes and I don't hesitate to bring it on a 2,000 mile road trip at a moments notice.

I did break the input shaft of the TR3650 2 years ago on the street but the 2010-2011 are worse with the Getrag transmission made in China.

 

[sdleo29]

I would like to know what coyote is running deep into the 11's with just bolt on's. What's the definition of bolt on. The ones I see with bolt on's are running low 12's

 

[marcspaz]

I'd also like to point out before any new or somewhat new people try to question Thump's statements, not only are there dozens upon dozens of racers that have been here and proven their salt, Thump is also an engineer who has been designing race and performance parts for cars (S197's particularly for this discussion) for a long time. So think before you type.

 

[GT E UPP]

Trade

Yep, under the circumstances I would agree.....Trade !!

 

[thump_rrr]

I'd also like to point out before any new or somewhat new people try to question Thump's statements, not only are there dozens upon dozens of racers that have been here and proven their salt, Thump is also an engineer who has been designing race and performance parts for cars (S197's particularly for this discussion) for a long time. So thing before you type.

Just to be completely accurate I am no engineer. I just argue with them on most days.

 

[marcspaz]

LOL

 

[07TGGT]

Trade that thing in!

My car has 50K on it and I still plan to trade it in ASAP. Listen to me on this one. If you start heavily modding a 4.6 motor you will break stuff. Lot's of stuff. The 4.6 and TR3650 were not built to handle a lot of power. Neither are proven to be reliable at anything 400+ to the wheels.

But the 5.0 Mustangs are a different story. With just exhaust, bolt ons and a tune you can be running low 11's in the quarter mile. That's about where you would be with a boosted 4.6. The big difference is the 5.0 would be reliable while the 4.6 would be a ticking time bomb.

I would either trade it in OR invest in a built motor and tranny right off the bat. That way you could at least sell your current engine and transmission while they still work.

Good luck with whatever decision you make.

You're a fucking idiot. STFU and stop spewing bullshit.

 

[Wes06]

Agreed. The 3v is a beast of a reliable motor. I'm not gonna push it past 430ish unless forged and won't even worry about a road trip.

It loves cruising at 80 engine barely even noticing hills. If someone handed me a 5.0 engine and everything to install, yes I would do a motor swap, but I have no issue with the 4.6's reliability

 

[mach828]

Late to the party but I vote to keep it and first pay off your school debt. If you want to boost it set money aside and buy a used power adder. I have put about 10k miles on mine and supercharged it at over 100k, most of that is WOT. Just need a good tune and setup.

 

[TRC51]

I would say that if you are attached to the car, and you just want to BUILD a car and don't care about styling, driveability or whatever, just build what you got and make it fast. If you want a reliable daily at 450, move up to the 5.0 and get that all day long an not worry about it. All depends on if you are looking to build a car. I would love to build a super fast 3V, but I am not willing to do it with my Bullitt. Just the way I feel about it.

 

[TGR96]

If you have 10K to spend and if you think you can get 10K for yours you have 2 options.

Trade up to a newer model coyote which will still be stockish or checkout the market here on S197 and see if there are any built cars you can buy.

Whenever I look I see built cars that would cost me less than my engine build.

I have seen some really nice, well built cars in our own classifieds section for not much more than a stock GT. It's a gamble, but there are deals out there.

 

[Renesis07]

Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems like your Mustang is your only car? Since it's paid off maybe get yourself something low mileage and reliable to drive everyday and pay off that debt you mentioned. Then from there mess with your Mustang. The way I look at it, whether the car has 100 miles or 100,000 miles you're modifying a car past what it was originally designed for. Something will ALWAYS break at one point or another. Perhaps putting yourself in a situation where you have something else to drive in that event will eliminate some of the stress and make your decision easier on this.

Option #2 is to sell it and go get a lower mileage 2011+ to daily drive if you want to only have one car as a DD. Few bolt ones and a good tune and you're not too far away from your whp goal and have a car with less required maintenance that's newer.