need help launching mt drag radial 2011 5.0???

[cm581978]

Were you at the track today? Only saw two 2011 gt's there, a red and blue one

 

[stkjock]

i just came back from wpb fla i was to moroso drag strip the was relly good i got it up at5500 and dumped it i burned trough first at end if first it hooked still cut 1.77 short time

Were you at the track today? Only saw two 2011 gt's there, a red and blue one

 

[cm581978]

Well he said he was at raceway park today and i only saw two 2011s. Just was wondering which was his lol

 

[stkjock]

Well he said he was at raceway park today and i only saw two 2011s. Just was wondering which was his lol

Read the post dude, he was at West Palm Beach Florida! Moroso MSP

 

[fdjizm]

That's only a few states away bro don't sweat it

 

[cm581978]

well the OP typing skills blow lol

 

[stkjock]

well the OP typing skills blow lol

one could say the same of your reading skillzzzz...

 

[*JZ*]

Bring your tire pressure up for starters. Run it around 18-20 psi. Launch it around 4500 rpm and dont just drop the clutch...thatll shock the tires, hints your tire spin. Im cutting 1.5X 60' on a bfg drag radial, so it can be done.

 

[11GrabberGT]

On a stick car DR's are hard to hook b/c of the hard side wall, I think you will have more success if you switch to a et street or something that is bias, they dont hit the tires has hard and take more the stock off the hit, thats my thoughts and what has worked for me

 

[Cyotetr]

Yes doing a burnout out holding the brakes will get alot of heat in the rear brakes and the clutch. Stock clutches don't like alot of heat. Install a line lock and that won't be a problem.

 

[ChevyKiller]

The secret to a burnout is SPEED, not rpm - many guys confuse this. On your car, you want to do the burnout in second gear.

Start in second gear and get the rpms up to about 5500 rpms and dump the clutch, and keep your eyes on the speedo. Don't worry about rpm - you have a rev limiter and it will do it's job. If you hear the limiter, then just feather the gas back a little and hold it. Get your speedo up over 50 mph for a good 2-3 seconds and then ease off the brake and roll out.

This technique is going to jump your psi up about 1- 1 1/2 lbs and on your car, you would set the psi before the burnout to about 12.5-13.5 for starters and see how that goes. Start dumping your clutch at the line at 5000 and if you still come out spinning, back down to 4800 rpm and keep backing down in 200 rpm increments until you can find the launch rpm that works perfect right before the 'spinning point'.

Learn how to powershift (if you don't already know how) and the 2-3 & 3-4 is not so important, but the 1-2 shift makes a big difference on the launch. If you are leaving and shifting right, you should be making the 1-2 shift within 2 seconds of leaving the line and you want to make that quickly using the clutch as little as possible (preferably not at all on the 1-2 shift but it may take you some practice)

Follow this procedure and you will do much better. Another thing is to have a friend help you line into the waterbox and on the line. The guys at the box usually aren't paying much attention to anything other than hosing down the box and many times will have you park inside/outside of where you want to be in the box. Additionally, when you come out of the box, it really helps to have a friend line you into the 'groove' which is very difficult to see from inside the car. The 'groove' is the line where the other 'race cars' are lining up and leaving from the line down the track. That is the stickiest and best part of the track and where you want to be.

Practice, practice and play with your suspension. Try to keep as soft in the front and stiff in the rear as you can and have a friend video your launches from a side angle to help you see exactly how your car is launching in regards to squat and weight transfer - that info will tell you volumes about your spring and shock settings.

DISCLAIMER - the stock clutch does not like this method. Although this method will net you the best 60' times - upgrading to a good clutch and flywheel combo (and preferably a tru trac for the diff) will be required sooner than later under these methods.

 

[2011Black5.0]

thanks chevykiller for the info i cant wait to go friday night try it out.see what i can understand with those shocks is that say i hook at 5000 rpm so do i tightin the rear shocks one click then try it again? i think theres 12 settings on the single adjustments i got there at the 5th postion should i leave it there?

 

[JJ@WMS]

The secret to a burnout is SPEED, not rpm - many guys confuse this. On your car, you want to do the burnout in second gear.

Start in second gear and get the rpms up to about 5500 rpms and dump the clutch, and keep your eyes on the speedo. Don't worry about rpm - you have a rev limiter and it will do it's job. If you hear the limiter, then just feather the gas back a little and hold it. Get your speedo up over 50 mph for a good 2-3 seconds and then ease off the brake and roll out.

This technique is going to jump your psi up about 1- 1 1/2 lbs and on your car, you would set the psi before the burnout to about 12.5-13.5 for starters and see how that goes. Start dumping your clutch at the line at 5000 and if you still come out spinning, back down to 4800 rpm and keep backing down in 200 rpm increments until you can find the launch rpm that works perfect right before the 'spinning point'.

Learn how to powershift (if you don't already know how) and the 2-3 & 3-4 is not so important, but the 1-2 shift makes a big difference on the launch. If you are leaving and shifting right, you should be making the 1-2 shift within 2 seconds of leaving the line and you want to make that quickly using the clutch as little as possible (preferably not at all on the 1-2 shift but it may take you some practice)

Follow this procedure and you will do much better. Another thing is to have a friend help you line into the waterbox and on the line. The guys at the box usually aren't paying much attention to anything other than hosing down the box and many times will have you park inside/outside of where you want to be in the box. Additionally, when you come out of the box, it really helps to have a friend line you into the 'groove' which is very difficult to see from inside the car. The 'groove' is the line where the other 'race cars' are lining up and leaving from the line down the track. That is the stickiest and best part of the track and where you want to be.

Practice, practice and play with your suspension. Try to keep as soft in the front and stiff in the rear as you can and have a friend video your launches from a side angle to help you see exactly how your car is launching in regards to squat and weight transfer - that info will tell you volumes about your spring and shock settings.

DISCLAIMER - the stock clutch does not like this method. Although this method will net you the best 60' times - upgrading to a good clutch and flywheel combo (and preferably a tru trac for the diff) will be required sooner than later under these methods.

Excellent information and might I add one small tip.....


Try to line up behind a big tire car that lays down a nice patch of rubber for you, not behind the ricer on street tires that drags water up to the line.

JJ

 

[SlowA$$5.0]

On the water box note, drive around or between the water troughs then back your rear tires in. If you drive straight through your front tires will lay water directly in front of your rears on the launch.

 

[ChevyKiller]

On the water box note, drive around or between the water troughs then back your rear tires in. If you drive straight through your front tires will lay water directly in front of your rears on the launch.

Good point from both last two posters...

thanks chevykiller for the info i cant wait to go friday night try it out.see what i can understand with those shocks is that say i hook at 5000 rpm so do i tightin the rear shocks one click then try it again? i think theres 12 settings on the single adjustments i got there at the 5th postion should i leave it there?

Start off by setting you fronts 2 turns out from full soft and your rears 2 turn out from full stiff and my bet is that will be perfect for you.

Hooking has nothing to do with changing them. Look at a vid of the launch after and only adjust from there depending on how the car looks.

Example - if you are getting too much squat, then try one more turn out on the fronts, and play around from there. I think with your set-up 2 basic soft in the front and stiff in the rear is going to be a good point for you and you just have to practice on leaving and shifting the 1-2 on the money.