Overheating issue

nicks1031

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Similar to a recent post, I am having an issue with the cooling system. Symptoms would be that after about 30 minutes of driving , the temp gauge starts to wiggle a little and then slowly make its way to the hot side. Sometimes it starts to move to the hot side, and I slow down some and get back to around 1.6-1.8K Rpm and it goes back to normal. Cruising at 55 mph on cruise control for 30 minutes resulted in no rise in temp at all. This problem just came up after procharging my car, and I switched in a friends stock h pipe from the same year. Spoke to a friend of mine and he suggested that maybe the cats were bad causing the exhaust to clog up and back up , creating loads of extra heat in the engine. Sorta makes sense with the symptoms , but I want to hear some more opinions. What do you guys think? Can answer more questions if need be so feel free to ask. I go to the dyno on friday so just trying to figure this out before then. Thanks guys
 
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702GT

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If you're overheating now, you're really gonna cook doing WOT passes on the rollers. The stock gauges are "dummy" gauges, those POS's don't move 'til you're an inch away from screwed. Had a member on here with an oiling problem. Aftermarket gauge said he had 10-15psi oil pressure, stock gauge said he was normal. If you don't have some aftermarket gauges yet, I'd invest in a few.

There are at least 2 recent posts discussing overheating issues, I would suggest you follow them for solutions and things to look for. As far as your stock cats, yes a clogged cat is going to cause heating issues, it's also going to hurt the engine if you try to dyno it with a clogged cat. If you need to run cats, I recommend going with a quality high-flow cat. Personally, I prefer Magnaflow's metallic cats. The ceramic styles tend to be problematic. Just my $.02.
 

nicks1031

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I actually have an off road h pipe that I'm going to swap in between now and Friday, I suspect it is the issue because those cats had been sitting for a long time so who knows.
 

Pentalab

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If you're overheating now, you're really gonna cook doing WOT passes on the rollers. The stock gauges are "dummy" gauges, those POS's don't move 'til you're an inch away from screwed. Had a member on here with an oiling problem. Aftermarket gauge said he had 10-15psi oil pressure, stock gauge said he was normal. If you don't have some aftermarket gauges yet, I'd invest in a few.

There are at least 2 recent posts discussing overheating issues, I would suggest you follow them for solutions and things to look for. As far as your stock cats, yes a clogged cat is going to cause heating issues, it's also going to hurt the engine if you try to dyno it with a clogged cat. If you need to run cats, I recommend going with a quality high-flow cat. Personally, I prefer Magnaflow's metallic cats. The ceramic styles tend to be problematic. Just my $.02.

The stock "oil pressure" gauge in the stang is bogus, it does not budge at all in any of em. I delved into this 2 yrs ago, and it's just a fixed resistor behind the display. It amounts to a fixed Vdc across the gauge. It reads XXX on the gauge, but won't budge between idle and 6 k rpm.

I think the temp gauge on the 05-10 cars actually reads cyl head temps
( CHT). With the aeroforce gauges plugged into obd port, it will display CHT and also eng coolant temps. The eng coolant temp is a derived reading, it's not a real eng coolant reading..it's based on a number of factor's like cht etc, etc. Done via ecu.

"ambient air temp" is another derived, bogus, inaccurate measurement on the obd port, it will read anything from +/- 10 degs from reality.
 

nawagner

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I suspect it is the issue because those cats had been sitting for a long time so who knows.

Cats won't go bad just from sitting unused. They convert all the bad crap in exhaust to ok stuff through a chemical conversion. They go bad when they can't do that anymore or get clogged with gunk.

Likely is a thermostat or water pump or the added heat from the procharger that the system can't handle. When you are driving at highway speed there is plenty of air exchange to cool the system so there isn't a problem. Assuming the 30 mins of driving where you have an issue is stop and go which does not provide enough air movement to exchange enough heat from the system.
 
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nicks1031

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Cats won't go bad just from sitting unused. They convert all the bad crap in exhaust to ok stuff through a chemical conversion. They go bad when they can't do that anymore or get clogged with gunk.

Likely is a thermostat or water pump or the added heat from the procharger that the system can't handle. When you are driving at highway speed there is plenty of air exchange to cool the system so there isn't a problem. Assuming the 30 mins of driving where you have an issue is stop and go which does not provide enough air movement to exchange enough heat from the system.

Well considering that the cats were from a friend , they could be clogged. And the 30 minutes of driving was on the highway
 

07 Boss

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Similar to a recent post, I am having an issue with the cooling system. Symptoms would be that after about 30 minutes of driving , the temp gauge starts to wiggle a little and then slowly make its way to the hot side. Sometimes it starts to move to the hot side, and I slow down some and get back to around 1.6-1.8K Rpm and it goes back to normal. Cruising at 55 mph on cruise control for 30 minutes resulted in no rise in temp at all. This problem just came up after procharging my car, and I switched in a friends stock h pipe from the same year. Spoke to a friend of mine and he suggested that maybe the cats were bad causing the exhaust to clog up and back up , creating loads of extra heat in the engine. Sorta makes sense with the symptoms , but I want to hear some more opinions. What do you guys think? Can answer more questions if need be so feel free to ask. I go to the dyno on friday so just trying to figure this out before then. Thanks guys


Whomever told you this, don't ever listen to this him about anything car related.
 

702GT

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The stock "oil pressure" gauge in the stang is bogus, it does not budge at all in any of em. I delved into this 2 yrs ago, and it's just a fixed resistor behind the display. It amounts to a fixed Vdc across the gauge. It reads XXX on the gauge, but won't budge between idle and 6 k rpm.

I think the temp gauge on the 05-10 cars actually reads cyl head temps
( CHT). With the aeroforce gauges plugged into obd port, it will display CHT and also eng coolant temps. The eng coolant temp is a derived reading, it's not a real eng coolant reading..it's based on a number of factor's like cht etc, etc. Done via ecu.

"ambient air temp" is another derived, bogus, inaccurate measurement on the obd port, it will read anything from +/- 10 degs from reality.

I read cylinder head temps off the OBDII, they are pretty accurate. I have an aftermarket sensor in the lower D/S of the block, and there is almost always a 5-10 degree difference between the cylinder heads and the side of the block. The block will be at 180-185 when the cylinder heads report 190-195. (I have a 180 T-stat). As far as the stock temp gauge goes, it's a farce. It reads "normal" from 180 to 240 degrees. Fack all that noise, I want to *know* if my car goes above 210, cuz that shit doesn't fly in my book.

I assume the ambient air temp you're referring to is the IAT1 reading, which is on the MAF. That too has been accurate in my experience. If it's 100 degrees out the MAF is usually 108-112 cruising. You would need an IAT2 plugged into the intake manifold to get any more accurate for air going into the motor.

Either way, if you're not using an aftermarket oil pressure & water temp gauge of some form or another, you really don't know what's going on with your motor.
 

nicks1031

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Alright so I have an update, I test drove the car tonight and the gauge only started to move towards the hot side when i sat idling in one place after several minutes. Not sure what to think about this, anyone have any ideas?
 

07 Boss

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I went back to your original post and you mention this all started after putting on the centri. I'm not to familiar with this install but did you have to do anything to the cooling system? I know with some of the PD blowers you have to upgrade your crossover or something if you were pre '07. What year is your car?
 

nicks1031

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Its 2006 so I did not have to change the crossover, it was for 07+ that needed to switch the cross over. Only thing i had to do was reorient the thermostat by prochargers instruction.
 

JUSTA3V

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Its 2006 so I did not have to change the crossover, it was for 07+ that needed to switch the cross over. Only thing i had to do was reorient the thermostat by prochargers instruction.

Im an 07 with a D1SC...I did nothing with my crossover as the instructions said nothing of the sort. What exactly are we talking about here?
 

nicks1031

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Im an 07 with a D1SC...I did nothing with my crossover as the instructions said nothing of the sort. What exactly are we talking about here?

Maybe I'm wrong but I thought there was a cross over kit that came with the 07+
 

nicks1031

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On my way to dyno with x4 plugged in watching coolant temp closely
 

nicks1031

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Did you remember to plug the fan back in? Cooling problems while idling are usually fan related.

Alright I know I said it was plugged in, just got to my dyno shop, opened the hood , and check the fan plugs , it was unplugged, so I'm gonna say that was an honest mistake but I'm an idiot lmao hopefully that resolves the issue
 

01yellerCobra

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Alright I know I said it was plugged in, just got to my dyno shop, opened the hood , and check the fan plugs , it was unplugged, so I'm gonna say that was an honest mistake but I'm an idiot lmao hopefully that resolves the issue
Fingers crossed that's the problem. Don't feel bad. I chased a charging issue for two weeks after my first engine swap in my 01. Turns out I forgot to plug one wire in under the fuse box.
 

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