phaser locks and no tune

MYLILSS

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ok so here is the deal. I have an 07 gt that I am doing phaser locks on due to phaser issues it was having. the question is I have is what will happen running the car like this without a tune. I have an appointment to get to a tuner shortly after the car is up and running, but I am not sure if driving the car like this without a tune will hurt it. the car will need to travel about a 45 minute drive from where I live. im fine with check engine lights and such since it is temporary, just curious as to if it will do any damage driving it without a tune for that amount of time
 

BruceH

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You will get cels. I'm not sure if it's bad enough to go into limp mode. It won't damage anything just make sure they are put in to lock them out at 0*. For some reason advertisers like to tell us that you can also lock them out at 60* retarded. That would not be good and I can't figure out why they think anyone would do that.
 

MYLILSS

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cool, thanks. the phasers were taken apart, and then the locks were installed and they were reassembled. I believe that is the fully advanced or 0* position right ?
 

BruceH

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cool, thanks. the phasers were taken apart, and then the locks were installed and they were reassembled. I believe that is the fully advanced or 0* position right ?

Provided the locks were installed on the correct side of the cavity.
 

07 Boss

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When it is at rest are the cams in the fully advanced position?
 

MYLILSS

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the cams are locked in the fully advanced position. the car is a full bolt on 07 gt auto cmrc deletes and everything else .... with that said, would it be worth adding a trick flow adjustable crank gear set and retarding the cam timing a bit, or is it not worth the potential power increase ?
 

csracing

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If you retard the cams you'll gain top end power at the cost of low end. The opposite is true if you run the cams advanced. That said, I believe the stock tune retards the cams somewhere in the 10 degree range at max power (someone correct me if I'm wrong). If you can handle some loss in low end, you could retard the cams 4 to 6 degrees and get back some of what you're losing by locking the phasers out.

I'm running some bigger Lunati cams with locked phasers. I degree'd the cams when I built my engine and have the cams installed on a 109 degree ICL. Stock is 102.

You could retard the cams and put a higher stall converter in the car and likely love the end result.
 
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MYLILSS

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cool deal, thanks man. I was actually thinking somewhere in the 4-6 range would be a good middle ground based on the research i've done, but I thought id try and get a few more opinions. a converter isn't something I have yet, but it is definitely on the agenda. I have a complete whipple kit sitting on my workbench lol, but im not sure if I wanna put it on or not. this car is strictly a daily and I don't wanna get too crazy with it.
 

BruceH

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Here's what the Wallace racing cam calculator spits out for the stock cams:


Your cam has an Overlap of 34.00 degrees
Intake Duration of 248.00 degrees.
The Exhaust Duration is 279.00 degrees.
The Inlet Cam has an Installed Centerline of 109.00 degrees ATDC.
The exhaust cam has an Installed Centerline of 120.50 degrees BTDC.


Here's what comes up for lsa:

Your cam has an overlap of 34 degrees and a Lobe Separation Angle of 114.75 degrees.

The stock tune retards the cams 9 degrees at wot.
 

MYLILSS

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little update to this thread ....

I got the phaser locks installed, and also used a set of trick flow crank gears to degree the cams in at 8 degrees of retard. the car feels a bit soft down low, but it pulls great on the top end of things. I ended up having my buddy throw a tune on it for the vct's because even though it ran fine I just didn't trust it. the car is an auto so the driveability doesn't feel too bad on it, and in January when I put the whipple on it, that should clear up any of the low end loss I have suffered lol. thanks for all the help guys
 

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