Plug and Play BAP from VMP?

[Dubstep Shep]

I've been investigating different options for upping my fuel system lately. I came across this on VMPs website:http://vmptuning.com/07-12-gt500-fuel-system/vmpamppnp-y/

Looks like it's basically a Boost a Pump with connectors and all that already set up, which makes A LOT of sense to me. Easier to install, almost impossible to screw up, etc.

I talked to VMP today on the phone and they said they'll have this available for pre-2011 GT500s in a couple of weeks.

What're y'alls thoughts on this vs a BAP?
Seems better to me, though it may be worth upgrading the power wire to the module with this deal.

Anyone used the 11-12 module in the link?

 

[dysan]

I don't like the idea of changing the fuse size in the fuse block..I would rather see a dedicated 8-gauge power wire to the BAP and just use the existing power wire to power on the BAP. At least that's how I believe my BAP is wired.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I don't like the idea of changing the fuse size in the fuse block..I would rather see a dedicated 8-gauge power wire to the BAP and just use the existing power wire to power on the BAP. At least that's how I believe my BAP is wired.

Yea that's why I made the comment about upping the size of the power wire on the system. I'm not sure how 40a fuses would work in the factory fuse block though.

Throwing in a solid state relay mechanism wouldn't be that complex, but at that stage you're doing about as much wiring as a BAP would require.

 

[dysan]

I'm on the fence when it comes to SSR's (solid state relays)....I did a bunch of reading up on them when I built my powder coating oven and control box and the one thing that worries me is when they fail, they usually fail closed. I would rather use a mechanical relay especially for something that doesn't require fast on/off switching.

Also, with solid state relays you have to make sure you put a good heat sink on them especially when you go up in amperage.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I'm on the fence when it comes to SSR's (solid state relays)....I did a bunch of reading up on them when I built my powder coating oven and control box and the one thing that worries me is when they fail, they usually fail closed. I would rather use a mechanical relay especially for something that doesn't require fast on/off switching.

Also, with solid state relays you have to make sure you put a good heat sink on them especially when you go up in amperage.

Depends on the relay. You can always get one that fails open. That's how our hydraulic pressure safety valve was on our capstone.

Depending on how you set it up, you may be able to avoid heat issues. In all honesty it's more trouble than it's worth for a "plug-and -play" module though. That's the advantage to the BAP, it's made to run with a larger power wire. If I'm gonna be working with tapping or running new wires, there's no point paying extra for a module that plugs right in.

 

[Mustangfan]

I agree, Wiring a BAP is pretty easy. Dedicated fused 8-10 guage wire from battery, run to a relay.. Safest on the system and very reliable.

 

[GallopingFord]

Interesting. I never thought that much about it with the VMP boost a pump. I do like the plug and play stuff though lol.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Interesting. I never thought that much about it with the VMP boost a pump. I do like the plug and play stuff though lol.

I agree, the plug and play eliminates a lot of the headache and so forth. It's a lot cleaner as well.

 

[Sharad]

I used the JMS unit on my ProCharged 2011. It's also plug and play, and it's working very well in my daily driver.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I used the JMS unit on my ProCharged 2011. It's also plug and play, and it's working very well in my daily driver.

I've seen their modules before. I didn't know they had a plug and play switch. Looks like it's just for the 2011 and up though.

Not a huge fan of the Hobbs switch either; I feel like that's harder to tune.

 

[Sharad]

I've seen their modules before. I didn't know they had a plug and play switch. Looks like it's just for the 2011 and up though.

Not a huge fan of the Hobbs switch either; I feel like that's harder to tune.

They have a TPS voltage option as well, but I'm using the Hobbs on mine.