Punching louvers / Hood S197

2008 V6

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Has anyone punched louvers in the stock hood of a S197.
I am thinking of cutting part of the lower reinforcement out & punching louvers.

Questions
– Anyone tried to weldthe stock hood & know what type of aluminum it is formed from
– Did you re-attach the lower bracing?
– Any cracking of the hood after punching the louvers from driving induced repetitive flexing.

There are several shops in my area that can punch louvers. I was going to grab a hood out of a scrap yard & give it a try. I would like to vent the engine bay heat & help higher speed stability. The stock hood is relatively light & should hold it’s shape over time better than fiberglass – Just the upper section is relatively thin. I have a t-gauge but haven’t checked the thickness yet.
 

2008 V6

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Does covering your motor sound good every time it rains?

The control module, computer & other electrical component are quite well insulated from the factory. Louver placement will be at my discretion & rain traps are easily made if deemed necessary.
 

SolarWar

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Ive got a fiberglass hood with louvers built in. Over a year parked on the street in ny winters, snow, hurricane sandy, and no noticeable issues thus far.... I was always under the impression it wasn't a huge deal because the engine compartment it self is open to the environment...... just my 2 cents...
 

slowlyrolling

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Seriously? What do you think happens when it is down pouring and you are driving 60+ MPH on the freeway....

My engine bay has a minor amount after driving in a torrential down pour. Cutting holes directly on tip will severely increase the water in the bay.

Just what I've noticed from having a louvered hood in the past.
 

DTL

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FYI: The stock hood is 3 layers of aluminum. The top 2 are sandwiched together with some kind of insulation between them and the bottom layer is molded as a brace. It's a PITA to deal with. I put Aerocatches in my stock hood and it was no small project. It came out great, but it took a LOT longer than I expected.
 

Rehagen Racing

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The newer GT50o and BOSS cars have the louvers open. There should be no issue with doing this at all.

As you mentioned, placement is key.

We have customers that use the heavily louvered Tiger Racing hoods on the street all over the US and they have no complaints.
 

2008 V6

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FYI: The stock hood is 3 layers of aluminum. The top 2 are sandwiched together with some kind of insulation between them and the bottom layer is molded as a brace. It's a PITA to deal with. I put Aerocatches in my stock hood and it was no small project. It came out great, but it took a LOT longer than I expected.

Thank you all for responding –
I had no idea that the outer portion is a sandwiched layer
(Never would have occurred to me)
Welding lower portions of the BTM brace back on probably won’t be a problem but punching the louvers might especially if a fiber is in-between the two layers.

Punching louvers is about $2.00 per louver (My layout & removing of lower brace) (50 to 100 louvers depending upon layout) 8 to 12 approximate hours of prep work & paint afterwards. Never in my widest dreams did I figure a matt layer between 2 sandwiched layers – might be more than I can chew – I’ll find out.
All additional advise is welcome & appreciated.
 

Darkside323

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Great project. I have been running a Tiger Racing Super Louvered hood for the past year on my daily driver and despite it cracking I totally love the style. Water never seemed to cause a problem.
 

golkhl

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I installed a GT500 hood vent in my stock hood. It allows the hot underhood air to escape, and helps a ton with the hood flutter that our cars are known for.
 
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2008 V6

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I installed a GT500 hood vent in my stock hood. It allows the hot underhood air to escape, and helps a ton with the hood flutter that our cars are known for.

Could you confirm that the top hood layer is formed from (2) pieces with a fiber layer sandwiched in between?

I will look for a scrap hood now (Hopefully, I should be able to get one for free) & section it to see how it is formed. I will try punching louvers in it. If a fiber layer is found, I am quite sure that cosmetically it will create problems that I won’t want to deal with.
I thought about using formed inserts also. (Very good way to go and much easier)
This car is my wife’s, which she has been running in HPTDs - (V6) & possibly going to run in TTC if she gets her SHT together. Don’t want to push too hard & screw her up. Louvers should not be considered as aero devices (Only venting heat) so no points until possibly contended.
- Thanks for the pics
 
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PLee

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I've cut a LOT of holes in hoods (05-14 Mustang) over the years, and the only place w/ 3 layers is near the front of the hood, where hood pins/latches would go. Anywhere aft of the rad support is just two layers- the "A" surface, and the "B" structural layer, no fiber layer or anything like that, just the gooey bonding agent used between the two layers. The "A" surface is very thin aluminum. You will likely crack the paint during the louver process because it was never intended to flex. You could try warming the hood (via paint booth or localized heat gun), but I would go in knowing you're probably going to end up w/ some cracked paint.

If it were me, I'd tig some threaded M6 studs onto the structural layer that you are going to weld back on, around the louvered area. That way you can fab some quickie aluminum catch trays that you can bolt on/off as needed via Wingnuts or something. Or tig some small brackets on and use some cool Dzus fasteners or something. As long as you're not dripping on electronics, (coils, alternator, etc), a little water shouldn't hurt anything.
 

2008 V6

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I've cut a LOT of holes in hoods (05-14 Mustang) over the years, and the only place w/ 3 layers is near the front of the hood, where hood pins/latches would go. Anywhere aft of the rad support is just two layers- the "A" surface, and the "B" structural layer, no fiber layer or anything like that, just the gooey bonding agent used between the two layers. The "A" surface is very thin aluminum. You will likely crack the paint during the louver process because it was never intended to flex. You could try warming the hood (via paint booth or localized heat gun), but I would go in knowing you're probably going to end up w/ some cracked paint.

If it were me, I'd tig some threaded M6 studs onto the structural layer that you are going to weld back on, around the louvered area. That way you can fab some quickie aluminum catch trays that you can bolt on/off as needed via Wingnuts or something. Or tig some small brackets on and use some cool Dzus fasteners or something. As long as you're not dripping on electronics, (coils, alternator, etc), a little water shouldn't hurt anything.



Thanks for info - Confirmed "A" surface thickness

The louvered area will be stripped before louvering. The lower support brace will be holed & flared before being mostly reattached. Not sure on layout yet or how much I want to reattach of the lower brace
M6 studs - Good idea –
My main concern is work hardening caused by flexing in the louvered area (Thin) – possibly causing cracks down the road.
I have the word out for a hood at a few scrap yards that several of my friends deal with. When one turns up, I’ll give it a shot.
 

Osiris

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What color is your car 2008 V6? I have a stock no stripe gt500 hood taking up space. Im in 92126
 

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