Quantum brake cooling kit with Roush fascia

Reno Stack

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Hi guys, I'd like to get the Quantum brake cooling kit, and I'm curious to see how people with a Roush front fascia connected the inlet hoses. The manufacturer currently makes some nice inlet adapters for the GT, Shelby and CS fronts, but not Roush unfortunately. I was thinking of attaching a backing plate to the hose and then zip-tying it to the wire screen but would like something a little "cleaner".

Thanks in advance,

Dan
 

FR500GT

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Im going to have the same issue with the Saleen front bumper. The cleanest solution is to make a custom duct out of carbon fiber/fiberglass. Use some green molding styrofoam and cut it to shape, then lay down the epoxy and carbon fiber/fiberglass. There should be a write up in the DIY section somewhere.
 

Reno Stack

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Pony - Yes I came across your setup and that's where I got the idea to fab up a plate and tie it to the wire mesh. Great job, does it hold up well?

I've kept an eye on Lee's thread but I'm starting to lose out hope. It's been pretty quiet over there...
 

Ponykix

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It works fine. It has held up to multiple track days and a lot of daily driving. I leave them functioning all the time. I am still running the stock calipers and with good track pads and it holds it own. Before the brake coolers and removing the heat shields, the brakes would overheat easily, now I have had no issues.

Of course you still need to manage your brakes on track, but I feel it performs as good if not better than big brake kit cars with no cooling. Obviously big brakes and cooling are the best option, but I have been surprised how well this setup has performed.
 
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Wlkn Tal

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It won't be too far down the road I'm going to be adding some brake ducts as well. It's hard to believe that Roush doesn't have an aftermarket part. Great job Pony and thanks for the photos, if you can add one of the underside, especially on the driver side that would be great. I'm afraid the HE for my SC'r may get in the way. I guess you could also remove the screen and pop rivit the darn thing on instead of the zip ties.
 
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Pumpkinfish

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Roush used to have a brake duct kit that included the bumper ducts, hoses and I think the hub piece like Quantum's. Problem was it was something like $300 when the Quantum kit is almost half that. I have a Quantum kit in my basement that I have never got around to playing with.

I am thinking of removing the fog lights in the bumper and try fab something up there.
 
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Whiskey11

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I'm resurrecting this thread as I didn't feel my question had any real reason to add another thread on brake cooling but has anyone seen this deal on BuyFordRacing?

http://www.buyfordracing.com/ford-racing-brake-cooling-kit-for-07-09-shelby-gt500/

The price is $120, but what interests me more is that this kit is $99 more:

http://www.buyfordracing.com/products/2010%2d2012-MUSTANG-BRAKE-DUCT-KIT.html

What's the difference between the two kits to justify a $99 increase?

Will the first kit work with the stock 05-09 GT calipers? I plan on jumping to The GT500 4 pot Brembos sooner or later but it's just not in the budget this year (as it would require new wheels/tires as well...) I would like to get out to an event at the local road course sometime this year but I don't want to go out there without addressing the well known issues with the brakes.

I'm also looking at the TPS brake kits (rotors, pads, lines, and fluid) as well but that may be money wasted if I'm planning on going to Brembos later (no time frame on that, somewhat low priority ATM) and the pads that come with the TPS kit are HPS... I would like to run Carbotechs, Bobcats on the streets and XP10F/XP8R pads for the track days but that's $500 in pads alone to add to the price of the TPS kit ($550) unless you guys think the HPS, with ducts, lines, fluid will survive the abuse of hauling a 3800-3900 lb car down at Mid America Motorplex...

Also, has anyone done any caliper cooling modifications to see if they can get any more life out of the stock floating calipers?

Thoughts? Thanks in advance! :)
 

Mr. WHO

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Both are for the Brembos. One kit is for 05-09, the other kit is for 10+. They will do the same thing, just different years. Without the Brembo's, it wont work very well, as the kits are designed around a 14 inch rotor.

You can make your own kit and make your brakes work. Just depends on how much you use them (IE. 3 or 4 open track runs a year). Just get some nice pads, get rid of the rubber lines for some nice braided lines, and pick up some good fluid. You might be suprised how well this does work. Just remember your car is not 3800, thats the GT 500 area, your car is more like 3500.

Heres a how to. I would have used this idea, but I went a with a agressive chin spoiler.
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40310
 
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Darkside323

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The 1st kit is a 2.5 inch diameter tube and the second is a 3inch tube designed for the boss front fascia. Both work with Brembo's. I have been wanting to buy the second kit and fabricate it to work on my 07 Shelby.
 

Whiskey11

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Both are for the Brembos. One kit is for 05-09, the other kit is for 10+. They will do the same thing, just different years. Without the Brembo's, it wont work very well, as the kits are designed around a 14 inch rotor.

You can make your own kit and make your brakes work. Just depends on how much you use them (IE. 3 or 4 open track runs a year). Just get some nice pads, get rid of the rubber lines for some nice braided lines, and pick up some good fluid. You might be suprised how well this does work. Just remember your car is not 3800, thats the GT 500 area, your car is more like 3500.

Heres a how to. I would have used this idea, but I went a with a agressive chin spoiler.
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40310

Thanks for the response. So is the opening for the vanes on the 14" rotors that much wider than on the 12.4" front rotors on my 09? If that's the case I'm willing to bet that air could be directed more effectively to the smaller vane opening on the stock sized rotors for my 09. My question more related to the backing plate working with the floating calipers but I think you answered that. The other obvious solution here is to just cut the dust shield down so it serves as only a bracket for holding the brake cooling ducts. I can do cutting of prefabbed parts, I was just wanting to avoid any welding or custom fabrication based on my stock parts.

The curbweight of an 05 (as measured on a truck scale by a member on a different forum) was 3470lbs with a full tank of gas. I weight 285 fully clothed with a helmet, have leather heated seats, and have a Watts Link (weighs about 29 lbs, which is more than the PHB + brace). Benefit of the doubt, fully loaded with options, I bet my 09 weighs in right around 3550 lbs without me in it. Add me in and we are over 3800 lbs. :) And being as the next roadcourse event I make it to is my first, it will require an instructor to ride along as well which adds more weight. Mid America Motorplex is a pretty quick course with some pretty interesting braking zones that are right on top of each other:

Track%20Map%20-%20Mid%20America.jpg


They never run the D-Curve track orientation so ignore the turn around between corners 4 and 5. The straight is just shy of a half mile and in general is regarded as being a fast road course. I realize that pads fluids and lines will get me a long way into track reliability but this car is a daily driver and my budget for consumables is relatively small so I'm trying my best to prolong the life of components in the braking system (hence the brake ducts in combination with pads lines and fluids). I know the floating calipers are at their limits on a road course and I know they probably wont last long doing it, but if I can prolong their life enough to where I can drop the money for the Brembo set up, and the wheels to clear them that would be great.

I guess I'm not one for fabricating my own stuff when it involves welding. I have every intention of doing the front duct inlets myself, but I was trying to avoid having to do welding of the heat shields. For $119 it wasn't much more expensive than doing it all myself and it certainly is more convenient, especially if the heat shield will work that comes in the kit.


The 1st kit is a 2.5 inch diameter tube and the second is a 3inch tube designed for the boss front fascia. Both work with Brembo's. I have been wanting to buy the second kit and fabricate it to work on my 07 Shelby.

I'm not running the Brembos right now unfortunately, and I can't really afford to buy new wheels in combination with the Brembo kit which is why I'm asking if the kit will work with the factory floating calipers! :)
 

Mr. WHO

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Being your first time out and from the looks of the turns, I doubt you will "out drive" your stock brakes. With the pads, cooling ducts and fluid, you would be fine. Go out learn the lines then start to upgrade. You maybe suprised (as I was) on how many are running pretty damn fast with all the above mods on stock brakes. Just pay attention to how long your out there at a time, 20 minutes should be fun, pit, let it all cool for a bit and then run it like mad for another. Interesting info, if a M3 runs on 1 piston front brakes, then ours should be able to hang.

I was talking just the car, as far as weight. Thought thats what you we're saying as well. Your a big boy at 285!
 
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Whiskey11

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Being your first time out and from the looks of the turns, I doubt you will "out drive" your stock brakes. With the pads, cooling ducts and fluid, you would be fine. Go out learn the lines then start to upgrade. You maybe suprised (as I was) on how many are running pretty damn fast with all the above mods on stock brakes. Just pay attention to how long your out there at a time, 20 minutes should be fun, pit, let it all cool for a bit and then run it like mad for another. Interesting info, if a M3 runs on 1 piston front brakes, then ours should be able to hang.

I was talking just the car, as far as weight. Thought thats what you we're saying as well. Your a big boy at 285!

No doubt the stock brakes will work for a while, that is why I am asking questions about these kits and making them last longer! ;) I'm wishing some of those guys that switched from the stock GT set up to the Brembo set up but have the Brembo set up cooling ducts would chime in. I guess, worst case I could cut the dust shield on that kit as $119 is pretty inexpensive considering what it is. :)

Yeah I'm not small, 6' 5" with a little bit of a pudge :p

IMG_1410.jpg


Old photo but you get the idea :D
 

kevinatfms

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you can make your own using 2.5" speaker port tubes and 2.5" high temp ducting. i drilled out 2.5" holes in my front lower valance and installed the 2.5" port tubes with some epoxy. next i use 2.5" worm clamps and clamped the hose to the back of the port tubes and ran them around to the tie rods and clamped them to the ends of the tie rods pointing to the rotor hat area. zip ties in the center keep them secured and away from the wheel at full lock.

cost all of about $70 bucks total.
(2) 2.5" speaker port tubes from crutchfield=$9
6' of high temp ducting from pegasusautoracing.com=$55
2.5" hole saw for front lower bumper from lowes=$3.49
beer + some sunday time

its not the 100% without backing plates but you can buy 2.5" MAF adaptor plates, drill out the Brembo dust shields and clamp them onto them if you want. mine works great for the tracks i frequent and i am pretty hard on my brembos.

ill take some photos if you want just pm me and remind me tonight.
 

kevinatfms

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Being your first time out and from the looks of the turns, I doubt you will "out drive" your stock brakes. Interesting info, if an M3 runs on 1 piston front brakes, then ours should be able to hang.
I was talking just the car, as far as weight. Thought thats what you we're saying as well.

also, what size is the m3 pad? rotor diameter? i ran 2 piston PBR calipers with 14" rotors and never had an issue besides the fact that the 2pcs baer rotors cost more than $700 a pair every year.

the fact is that the stock rotors at 12.4" are just too small for a heavyweight GT. there have been plenty of discussions on this and most agree that while they can be used on track, they are subpar for any serious enthusiast. you need every available heat reducing part to effectively run the 12" rotors and you will still tax the hell out of them. the take off factor is much easier on the wallet though as you can score some great 12" take off brakes for next to nothing.

as for the OP, pick up an extra set of rotors for your ride home. do the cheap ducting kit, lines(since they can be switched to brembos later on), better fluid & pads and take a dump before you set out(easy 10lb weight reduction:evillaugh:)
 

jymontoya

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It won't be too far down the road I'm going to be adding some brake ducts as well. It's hard to believe that Roush doesn't have an aftermarket part. Great job Pony and thanks for the photos, if you can add one of the underside, especially on the driver side that would be great. I'm afraid the HE for my SC'r may get in the way. I guess you could also remove the screen and pop rivit the darn thing on instead of the zip ties.


Don't expect to easily clear the Heat Exchanger for your Supercharger with front ducts. I bought the Quantum front fascia pieces hoping to make them work, but there's just really no way without permanently changing the front bumper. I also bought the Ford Racing 2011+ duct kit, and I ended up just zip tieing the ducts to the 4 nub holes where the stock honeycomb covers. But honestly, with the Brembos and a HIGH temp Track pad like these ST43's, I have run them fully blocked WITHOUT fade for over 25 min at Road Atlanta in 85* ambient heat, on slicks! I may end up adding some small 'scoops' under the front cover to finish it off, but it works for now. Ugly though. :argh:
 

Mr. WHO

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also, what size is the m3 pad? rotor diameter? i ran 2 piston PBR calipers with 14" rotors and never had an issue besides the fact that the 2pcs baer rotors cost more than $700 a pair every year.

the fact is that the stock rotors at 12.4" are just too small for a heavyweight GT. there have been plenty of discussions on this and most agree that while they can be used on track, they are subpar for any serious enthusiast. you need every available heat reducing part to effectively run the 12" rotors and you will still tax the hell out of them. the take off factor is much easier on the wallet though as you can score some great 12" take off brakes for next to nothing.

as for the OP, pick up an extra set of rotors for your ride home. do the cheap ducting kit, lines(since they can be switched to brembos later on), better fluid & pads and take a dump before you set out(easy 10lb weight reduction:evillaugh:)

Yes, I should of added that info. The piston size area is the same as ours and the rotor is a 14".

Speaking of which, when you used that Baer kit, did you try to use a oem 14" Shelby rotor? Would it have worked? Curious about that.
 

kevinatfms

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^no, the shelby rotor hat and baers 2pcs rotor hat are a different thickness. you would have to add a 3mm spacer between the rotor and hub to use the 2pcs rotors with 4 piston brembos.

FTBR(full tilt boogie racing) has a set of 2pcs rotors for the brembos which i may pick up once i toast the set of rotors i just bought.
 

jymontoya

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IMHO, Unless you are really wheel to wheel racing, and need every 0.10 sec advantage, I don't think the 2 piece rotors are worth their weight savings. The replacement costs is SIGNIFICANTLY more, and most come with drilling or slotting that further increases their wear rate.

They may look 'slick', but everyone I know who actually races, and isn't incredibly rich, uses quality 1 piece rotors.

Again, I'm not saying they aren't better performing. The difference is just so small and costly that it's really hard to justify.

Just my :2cents:
 

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