Ran into a problem. Cash for a quick solution

[gtman]

I'm working here with my neighbor and we are trying to track down a likely electrical problem.

I am willing to send cash,gift card, charitable donation to someone that can help me locate the problem.

Problem began last night when trying to find a ground on the passenger side fusebox for a gauge. Nothing is installed yet and I know the problem came from the attempted install. Worked on vent locations, passenger side fusebox, and under battery holder.

In the pass side fusebox, the Tyco electronics large tab came loose while the car still had power. This was when I opened the kickpanel door, I'm not implying this is the problem, but it may have led to it. Pulled most of the mini fuses in the engine compartment and the pass side fusebox. I could not find any burned out.

Car Will

Lights will flash when I hit the lock or unlock, but will not pop the lock, horn works on multiple keypad lock hits, dome light works, trunk lights work, trunk key opens, adjusting windows go up, front and rear lights work

Car will not: have any key on power, no key chime, no more blinking antitheft light, can't lock or unlock doors by keypad or door button, no window switch power. Fog lights won't come on, blinkers won't work(did last night), no radio power.


I was having an issue last night with interference noise that sounded like it was coming from the cluster, but j was able to have accessory power and everything was okay. I was trying to find a source of the interference but I couldn't, a faint clicking sound from the cluster with key on acc, even for a good 10 sec. plus after removing the key. Over the period of last night until today a lot more things quit working.

Battery is charged.

Thanks and opinions or thoughts to track down the problem will be appreciated.

 

[07 Boss]

Not sure what tab you are talking about but I'm assuming it is one of the connectors or pigtails going into the SJB. Anyways, the myriad of problems that you are encountering seems like the some of the symptoms of water damage/corrosion of the SJB. So it is very likely that by either messing with the SJB while it had power messed it up.

Has there ever been the infamous wet carpet on the passenger side? Maybe it was already corroded or water damaged and messing with it just caused it to rear it's ugly head.

 

[BlackMustang690]

I had similar problem where my Horn didn't work, my fogs and turn signals weren't working after I installed a set of gauges (Aeroforce). What happened was I connected the gauges to the SJB (smart junction box) using a add on fuse and I must of moved it around to much. There had been water damage to the box on the inside where all the Pins connect to the board, while installing the gauges I must of pushed, moved it hard enough some of the pins that were corroded broke off. I found out by taking the SBJ off and opening it and saw all the corrosion, you have to be very careful not to break more pins off or dropping it. What I did was I cleaned it up using small brush being very careful and then jumped wires to the pins that had been broken providing power. This made my horn, fogs and turn signals work. The other solution was to buy a new SJB and then get it programed at the dealer for it to work. I was luck enough that the pins that were corroded were directly to the problem I was having other wise I would have had to follow wires since I never looked hard enough for a diagram of SJB. Hope this helps or gives you an idea.

 

[gtman]

Not sure what tab you are talking about but I'm assuming it is one of the connectors or pigtails going into the SJB. Anyways, the myriad of problems that you are encountering seems like the some of the symptoms of water damage/corrosion of the SJB. So it is very likely that by either messing with the SJB while it had power messed it up.

Has there ever been the infamous wet carpet on the passenger side? Maybe it was already corroded or water damaged and messing with it just caused it to rear it's ugly head.

No sir, weekend car and hasn't been out in a year. The problems came the very night I was working on the wires. The connector that came off when the car still had the negative cable attached was the one in the center right above the small fuse cover that I removed.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Did you check the big square fuses in the BEC? The SJB gets power from those.
Otherwise it sounds like some fuse was left out somewhere, or the connector is not plugged back in properly.

That connector should not have come out that easily. Make sure the battery is disconnected (which it should be by now), and remove and reseat that connector. It should lock in place (depending on the specific connector), with a tab, locking lever, or something.

The noise you hear from the instrument cluster can be the cluster zeroing the gauges and is normal.

If you were truly after a ground connection and not a power connection, ANY solid metal connection point can be used on the body; it does not have to be near the fuse panel. Power, however, that's different.

 

[gtman]

Did you check the big square fuses in the BEC? The SJB gets power from those.
Otherwise it sounds like some fuse was left out somewhere, or the connector is not plugged back in properly.

That connector should not have come out that easily. Make sure the battery is disconnected (which it should be by now), and remove and reseat that connector. It should lock in place (depending on the specific connector), with a tab, locking lever, or something.

The noise you hear from the instrument cluster can be the cluster zeroing the gauges and is normal.

If you were truly after a ground connection and not a power connection, ANY solid metal connection point can be used on the body; it does not have to be near the fuse panel. Power, however, that's different.

I rechecked all mini fuses in sjb and engine fusebox and I could not find any burned out or left out of place. The clear tops look fine from using a flashlight into each.I am going to re test the relays again.
On the connector in the sjb, I tried moving it and putting pressure on each side differently and I still am not getting anything. Loosened and tightened the bolt under the sjb that holds it too.

Idk, thanks to everyone for the posts so far

I just tested my relays again and i dont seem to have a bad one that I can find.

Does anyone know how to check/inspect the smart junction box? Should i give it a shot or is it beyond my average tooling?

Thanks.

 

[gtman]

Took out the sjb and it looks in like new condition. I don't see any corroded pins at all or any wires that were out of their slot when I took the rear connections out?
Pics attaches.

Any chance a Ford tech could test this if I brought the part only to the dealership?

What should I check or try next?
Any other ideas?

Thanks

 

[Exley]

That connector should not have come out that easily. Make sure the battery is disconnected (which it should be by now), and remove and reseat that connector. It should lock in place (depending on the specific connector), with a tab, locking lever, or something.

Agreed. You have to push in a pin and swing the lever over before those connectors will come out. It sounds like it wasn't seated all the way. if it came loose that could cause the weird issues you are having. Make sure the lever plastic lever is swung all the way open away from the connector before you press it in

for the record I've disconnected most of those connectors with the battery connected. Nothing broke. Not recommending it though

 

[gtman]

Agreed. You have to push in a pin and swing the lever over before those connectors will come out. It sounds like it wasn't seated all the way. if it came loose that could cause the weird issues you are having. Make sure the lever plastic lever is swung all the way open away from the connector before you press it in

for the record I've disconnected most of those connectors with the battery connected. Nothing broke. Not recommending it though

I've reconnected everything and I still can't get power to the key or obd. I've checked all the fuses many times, tested relays, looked over diagrams and I'm not missing any fuses.

Taking the sjb was probably another one of my faults. Now I'm not getting dome lights, headlights, trunk release anymore.

I don't think I could have ran into a problem this large if I was even trying to cause it.

Anyone know how to test the smart junction box and see if it is still good? Ford service advisor said he didn't know if the tech could test it if I brought it down without my car.
Idk anymore guys.

 

[Born To Run]

Elec problem

For what it's worth I had similar problem,turned out to be bad relay under hood look for square relay I think it was for horn & other accessories.It was weird,I found it because it made a faint clicking noise.Remove & re install or replace it,give it a try.

 

[abe120205]

How's the charge on the battery. As stupid as it sounds, my battery was low when i took her out of storage... The brake lights, running lights, horn, etc, but I did have interior lights and radio power... didn't try the windows or locks. Threw on the battery charger and all was well. Now granted, I replaced the battery the next day, as it was the OEM that came with the car.

Best of luck!

 

[06silverbullet]

your sjb doesn't look corroded, its possibly you may ha e shorted it when messing with the loose connection when it had power.

i would also tear apart the bec and make sure none of those connectors are melted, ie the now seeming more common fan fire harness melting at the bec connector.

 

[gtman]

For what it's worth I had similar problem,turned out to be bad relay under hood look for square relay I think it was for horn & other accessories.It was weird,I found it because it made a faint clicking noise.Remove & re install or replace it,give it a try.

I'll check again. I took out all the relays and tested them with alligator clips off another battery and multimeter. I also heard the faint clicking sound on the one relay on the sjb when I would click the unlock/lock on keyfob or interior lock switch. Relays were in good order when I tested them a few days ago.
This lasted only a day or two before it quit.

Battery is fully charged, I run a battery charger, and I replaced battery a good 4-5 months ago.

Does it sound like my problem may be anywhere from the sjb and the bec?

Should I try and check the bec(engine fusebox) for anything melted? Honestly, after possibly ruining my sjb due to my error, Im trying not to ruin anything else.

Thanks for the ideas.

 

[HG6283]

One thing I've learned is that Ford combines Grounds from what seem like unrelated circuits into several common ground points. This can make troubleshooting a nightmare, because a loose ground can cause strange unrelated failures.
I was looking at a couple of wiring diagrams, and there are 1 or 2 ground points that combine some of the issues you are having.

One of these is G100 in the engine compartment RH side front.

Another of these is G203 shown below. It's on the RH A-pillar.

.

 

[gtman]

Thank you Ron, I will look into that in the morning.

I opened up the BEC and everything looks good and clean.
I'm going to call a few other dealerships and ask if the the can test the SJB when it is out of the car, probably unlikely but I don't know what to do anymore.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Using a voltmeter or test light, you should check if you are getting power to the SJB.

You mentioned you checked the "mini fuses" in the BEC, but you did not say whether you checked all the bigger square fuses on the ends of the BEC; at least one of those feeds the SJB, or if you left one out or put one back in the wrong position, you'd have no SJB power to some of the SJB circuits.

Taking out the SJB is more of a shotgun approach, unless voltages and grounds are all present and proper.

 

[gtman]

Using a voltmeter or test light, you should check if you are getting power to the SJB.

You mentioned you checked the "mini fuses" in the BEC, but you did not say whether you checked all the bigger square fuses on the ends of the BEC; at least one of those feeds the SJB, or if you left one out or put one back in the wrong position, you'd have no SJB power to some of the SJB circuits.

Taking out the SJB is more of a shotgun approach, unless voltages and grounds are all present and proper.

I have the ford manual printout for the the junction box testing, in all honesty i thought it was above my skil level but im willing to try. Ive taken the sjb out and reinstalled, now even less things power up(used to have dome lights, could click the lock/unlock and hear the relay on the sjb click, trunk would pop open, horn would honk on lock buttom hit twice).
I have tested and checked all the fuses at least 3 times. All relays have been tested. Big uses have been checked. Opened up the bec the other day and I didnt see anything that didnt look fresh or in working order.
If i had to make an uneducated guess now, I believe I either fried the sjb when I made a mistake with that connector coming off while the car still had the battery connected, or the inside of the sjb connectors was pushed too far in when I tried adding the add a fuse for the gauge.
Ive called two local service advisors and neither one knew if they could test my sjb if i brought it in without the car.

Thanks.

 

[bcb06gt]

The trunk works by grounding the wire. If that has quit working as well as the dome light, I am thinking a grounding issue as mentioned previously. I would also agree that the power to the SJB needs to be checked at the source point and at the SJB.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

... I would also agree that the power to the SJB needs to be checked at the source point and at the SJB.

again.. DO THIS !

You may not have an SJB issue at all...or, you might. Without checking voltages and grounds, the SJB can't operate properly. It's easy enough to do, so do it! even if the SJB is not plugged in when you test it voltages/grounds, you'll verify that they are all present...or not.

If this is not something you are comfortable checking, then get a friend to do it for you. Believe me, it is not hard to check voltage. But I understand if you are reluctant to do so. Wiring/circuitry scares some people; but i don't think you're one of those who would be afraid to do it. just get a cheapy $10 or less voltmeter, and that's all you need.

 

[408Stang]

Can you start the car with the SJB in?

Depending on what you've done... You might be experiencing a PATS problem which will require a Ford IDS tool (or China equivalent) to reset PATS.

The hallmark of a PATS lock-out is that the engine will not start, but the car appears to have most of its electronic power.