Rotary Polisher Talk

[CaliforniaSpecial]

Probably a shot in the dark here but I'm wondering if anyone has any experience between Flex rotary polisher models L3403 and the PE 14-2 150. I currently have the Flex DA but would like to give a rotary a try.

There's about $100 difference between the two rotary models without a clear indication on how much different the expensive one is. Anyone have any experience with these polishers that could shed some light?

P.S. might have a Flex orbital for sale soon...

Thanks!

 

[nbk13nw]

Rotary is faster but less forgiving than an random orbital. It can drop the cut and polish in half. No experience with the Flex line but everything I hear is good.

 

[CaliforniaSpecial]

i've done a little wet sanding on deeper scratches before and have seen what it looks like to go through the clear. are there any tips or warning signs before burning too much off with a rotary?

 

[nbk13nw]

Just practice. Take your time. Watch the pressure and number of passes. It is a good idea to practice on an old painted panel if you have one. Takes a couple of times to get the feel for it. Start with a softer less abrasive pad when first trying it out until you get comfortable.

 

[00blkvert]

You should be able to accomplish everything you would want with a flex DA. Have you tried using wool pads or different compounds to get a better cut?

 

[CaliforniaSpecial]

I've already bought the more expensive Flex Rotary. Orbital for sale! http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126185

The heaviest cut I've use is M105 with a Cyan med cut foam pad which gets "most" everything out but that's with me being very picky. I agree that I should try out a more aggressive wool pad or the like. Main reason why I wanted the rotary is for polishing my alumninum snowmobile tunnel and having the option of 1 inch pads to get in the tighter spaces. That and being able to polish a car quicker.

 

[Kput]

Would strongly recommend picking up some test panels from a body shop before you hit your car. A few seconds too long could result in a new paint job.

I've been told that in classes and shops they make you do a ton of practice, including intentionally burning the paint so you know what to do and not to do.

 

[ChrisGT]

^Very good advice

 

[CaliforniaSpecial]

Luckily I'm practicing on a bare aluminum snowmobile tunnel so it's not like I have anything to burn through. I am finding it takes a bit more careful technique to get the same results as the DA. I guess practice makes perfect!

 

[Lupo222]

If the most aggressive you use is M105, why not just use the DA and a more aggressive compound? The DA will get just about anything out. I detail for a living and use a rotary once in a blue moon on a car and its usually because someone washed it with a brillo pad or something (yes, it does happen!)

My biggest piece of advice: Keep the pad wet (mist it with detail spray) and apply very very very little pressure. Let the rotary do the work. Oh and keep it moving. Be careful on edges. Ok so thats alot mroe than one piece of advice. lol

 

[Kput]

^
Not sure how well a more aggressive compound would handle on aluminum though. I've never detailed a boat or pontoons, but I've gathered that most people whip out the rotary to do them .

 

[00blkvert]

^
Not sure how well a more aggressive compound would handle on aluminum though. I've never detailed a boat or pontoons, but I've gathered that most people whip out the rotary to do them .

A rotary will definitely be better then a DA on aluminum or gel coat on a boat but the flex lT self is direct drive like a rotary so I think it would be able to cut just as deep with a wool pad and stronger compound as a rotary.