Rough night at the 1/8mi

NoviBlownGT

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My front has been full loose all season. It unloads the front so quick because it spins. I think now I need to soften up the rebound and stiffen up the compression. I've been running it completely opposite. Just having a hard time figuring out double adjustables. My best 60 so far was on stock shocks and steeda springs haha.

Most people are running SA rears so I'm having a hard time taking with people who are running doubles and an even harder time finding people running sticks is a similar powered car.
 

jam07GT

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A stick car is just a whole other animal. What about your lca mounting point? Have you tried the top hole? Shouldn't hit the tires as hard if you move the IC forward????
 

jam07GT

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Have you measured your front end travel? I would do that. Aren't CJ springs "handling" springs? Those are shorter and have high spring rates and don't allow for much travel.

Also, do you have a two step? Are your rpms held steady when you launch? I assume you've tried a bunch of different rpm launches?

Finally, you are doing your burnout in 2nd gear, right? Are you running stiff sidewall slicks? That's what you use for stick cars. MT makes a special slick just for this.

You've probably tried or thought about all the above, just trying to cover all the bases. Most guys I know that run stick cars with power use a slipper clutch.
 

psfracer

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Y
You are getting no weight transfer, imho. The front end is barely coming up and then it goes right back down.

X2.

This is a front suspension issue, imo, and also try the top hole in your lower relocation brackets. Your front end isn't working at all. It doesn't matter what shock setting you're on if the front springs aren't right.

I agree, car has very little weight transfer based on looking at the vid. Even if you spin, if you are full loose the front end should come up and stay up longer than that. It just comes back down so fast. Could be rear shock settings as well.

My front has been full loose all season. It unloads the front so quick because it spins.

How much lower does your car sit in the front vs the rear? How old are the tires?
 
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NoviBlownGT

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I switched from et pro radials to et street R bias ply. Tires were brand new. They have 5-6 passes on them now. I'll be hitting the 1/4 this coming Friday. Thinking about moving Lcas to top hole on relo. Car does sit a bit lower up front. 27.5in front tire and the the ground to top center of fender is 27.5. Rear sits at least an inch higher. 28in tire and probably 1/2-1in gap. I don't have those on now to measure. I know it's at least an inch higher.

Trying to decide now what to set the double adjustable rear shocks at to start with.
 

NoviBlownGT

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I think I'm bogging more than anything now with the bias plys. But anytime I launch off the 2step instant tire smoke. I have to launch off my foot to get it to do anything. Trying to get this figured out since I'm going auto in less than a month. Want t solid time with the 6sp.

All the videos on here are on the radials. I'll upload videos of the bias plys later.
 
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jam07GT

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I think I'm bogging more than anything now with the bias plys. But anytime I launch off the 2step instant tire smoke. I have to launch off my foot to get it to do anything. Trying to get this figured out since I'm going auto in less than a month. Want t solid time with the 6sp.

All the videos on here are on the radials. I'll upload videos of the bias plys later.


What auto trans are you going to be switching to?
 

jam07GT

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4R70 built by Darrin Burch.


What all does that require to install? Trans crossmember? New driveshaft? An electronic controller?

Is it going to have a trans brake? What is the power rating on the trans?
 

NoviBlownGT

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Crossmember adapter bracket, driveshaft, no computer since I'm going manual valve body, it will have a Trans brake, overdrive, locking converter. Need normal stuff like shifter, wiring and some switches, yoke, u joint, converter, flex plate etc.
 

psfracer

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I think you are going to like the auto a lot better for the track. I bet it will 60' a lot better.
 

lindertw

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man, that front end barely comes up - it's as if the front sway bar is still in place and limiting travel (but I know that it's gone based on previous chats).

representative weight transfer for my hoopty (older CJ springs, not the lowering kind like you have)
weight_transfer_zpsywpkfu2w.jpg
 

Marble

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Well I just need to decide on a shifter now... Hurst or TCI

I'm not familiar with the TCI. I have the hurst. I like the grip and everything about it. They one thing I wish out had was an adjustable delay button. One that I could add or subtract a few thousanths at the line. Even without it I still cut very consistent .03 lights.

My converter is pretty loose at around 4500. Which is great at the track but a heat monster on the street. Make sure you get a good remote mount transmission cooler.

You will love the 4r. I still haven't had mine out enough to figure out the launch yet. I've never spun and get consistent 1.46-1.5 60'.
 

NoviBlownGT

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I'm going to order the biggest and baddest cooler/fan I can get for it. Probably going to have to mount it where the evap system is now. Mine will have lockup so it shouldnt be to bad on the street as far as heat. At least I hope not.
 

NoviBlownGT

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man, that front end barely comes up - it's as if the front sway bar is still in place and limiting travel (but I know that it's gone based on previous chats).

representative weight transfer for my hoopty (older CJ springs, not the lowering kind like you have)
weight_transfer_zpsywpkfu2w.jpg


I agree with you Tom. I just those 13 CJs just drop the front way to much. I just bought some qa1 double adjustable coilovers for up front. So hopefully that will help me out. The only down side is now I have so much adjustable stuff it will be hard to keep track of!
 

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