Running no rear sway bar on track?

[Fabman]

What size tires is that measurement for?

That info is not provided.
My track tires are 25.5 and at 4.5" I could seriously put snow chains on it and they would not rub.
Looking at the shocks though, there doesn't seem to be a lot left in travel....so I'm under it now smoking it over.

 

[Fabman]

This is what it looks like.
According to the instructions, this is too low by an inch or more.

(slideshow)

http://s201.photobucket.com/user/mauisal/slideshow/coil overs

 

[oldVOR]

That IS sitting high, almost looks like stock height.
And the instructions say you're setting too low as it is right now?
How much higher does it say it needs to sit to be correct?

What size and offset rear wheel are you running and how much inboard rear wheel/tire clearance is there to the shock/spring assembly?

Did you weld the tow/strap loops on the LCA brackets or did they come like that?

 

[Fabman]

That IS sitting high, almost looks like stock height.
And the instructions say you're setting too low as it is right now?
How much higher does it say it needs to sit to be correct?

What size and offset rear wheel are you running and how much inboard rear wheel/tire clearance is there to the shock/spring assembly?

Did you weld the tow/strap loops on the LCA brackets or did they come like that?

Paper work says 4.75 to I think 5.5 and mine is currently 4.25 in back and they want .5* of rake and in is almost 2*.

Yes, I welded loops on front and rear for easy tie down in the trailer.

 

[Mark Aubele]

Looks pretty much stock height to me as well, rear may even be higher. I would run it where you want it as long as you have adequate travel, something with their numbers can't be right.

 

[Fabman]

Looks pretty much stock height to me as well, rear may even be higher. I would run it where you want it as long as you have adequate travel, something with their numbers can't be right.

The reason I spent the big bucks on this ($3695.00) was to get a quality package that was well engineered and comprehensive instructions so there would be no guess work.
I guess I need to get some clarification still.

Or, do what I want to do cause that's what I'm going to do anyway....

 

[kcbrown]

The reason I spent the big bucks on this ($3695.00) was to get a quality package that was well engineered and comprehensive instructions so there would be no guess work.
I guess I need to get some clarification still.

Or, do what I want to do cause that's what I'm going to do anyway....

These are from Cortex, right? You should definitely talk to them about it. If something's not right, they're going to want to know so that they can figure it out and give you the right advice on setting it up properly.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

AHA!!! I think I know what's going on here...

First, I (personally) think your front looks low, but the rear looks about right.

Second, the 4.5" measurement from the ground to the frame is 1/2" LOWER than the American Iron ride-height spec of 5" (as raced, with driver). Spec tire is the Toyo RR, max width is 275, and almost everybody in the S197 chassis runs 275/35-18 with a 25.5" loaded diameter.

Just info that might explain a few things...

 

[csamsh]

Just another data point as well...that inverted and eye/eye design necessarily eats up bump travel. I ran a pin/eye non-inverted AST on the back, and it still didn't look incredibly low with the 25.5" tire.

 

[Fabman]

AHA!!! I think I know what's going on here...

First, I (personally) think your front looks low, but the rear looks about right.

Second, the 4.5" measurement from the ground to the frame is 1/2" LOWER than the American Iron ride-height spec of 5" (as raced, with driver). Spec tire is the Toyo RR, max width is 275, and almost everybody in the S197 chassis runs 275/35-18 with a 25.5" loaded diameter.

Just info that might explain a few things...

That's the same size tire as I'm using.
This is a track day car so I don't have to fit any rules, it's just about what works best.
5" height may or may not be an ideal height, it may just be a rule satisfier.
I must say, the suspension angles from underneath looks about right...it's just that 4X4 look that made me stop and ask questions.

 

[Fabman]

That IS sitting high, almost looks like stock height.
And the instructions say you're setting too low as it is right now?
How much higher does it say it needs to sit to be correct?

What size and offset rear wheel are you running and how much inboard rear wheel/tire clearance is there to the shock/spring assembly?

Did you weld the tow/strap loops on the LCA brackets or did they come like that?

In the instructions it stated that the spring perches were pre set at the factory....so that SHOULD be ride height. I had to raise the rear to get it even this high.
The front is almost out of thread as delivered so it could only go up 1/2" more at most.
I can't imagine that spec height is at the end of the threads.
Looking at these cars in the pics, mine looks higher to me. Maybe it's just my perception.

 

[Fabman]

Wheels:
Diameter: 18"
Width: 10"
Offset: 43mm

There is at least an inch between the shock and wheel....probably more like 1.250 by eyeball.

 

[Mark Aubele]

At 4k, I would certainly be calling Cortex and have them explain to me exactly what it is supposed to be set at.

 

[Fabman]

At 4k, I would certainly be calling Cortex and have them explain to me exactly what it is supposed to be set at.

I asked a million questions before I nailed down the purchase....I think I already used up my Q&A allotment.

The directions are clear, it is what it is, I'm just not used to the look of it in all actuality. I do not doubt cortex, just my own judgement.
The prior answer of what tires are typically run on these pretty much answered my question.
Now all I have to decide is....can I live with it?

 

[Fabman]

So, let me ask you this....how much wheel travel is expected on track?
When I was driving late model stock cars we wanted 1" travel in the front and 3" in the rear.
The cars were sprung similarly, but half the weight.

What can I expect to see real world?

 

[kcbrown]

I asked a million questions before I nailed down the purchase....I think I already used up my Q&A allotment.

Heh. No. No, you didn't eat up your allotment.

What separates the men from the boys in the vendor world is the post-sales support. Now that you've spent the money, it's time to make use of the advantages of buying from a good vendor.

The directions are clear, it is what it is, I'm just not used to the look of it in all actuality. I do not doubt cortex, just my own judgement.
The prior answer of what tires are typically run on these pretty much answered my question.
Now all I have to decide is....can I live with it?

And that's going to depend on what you want to do.

Seriously, call Cortex. They will help you find that balance between appearance and performance that you seek. You may have to trade one to get the other, but only you can decide where that balance should be. They will know how to achieve that balance. Being able to change things to achieve the balance you're after is precisely why you bought something that has so many ways to adjust them, isn't it?

 

[kcbrown]

So, let me ask you this....how much wheel travel is expected on track?
When I was driving late model stock cars we wanted 1" travel in the front and 3" in the rear.
The cars were sprung similarly, but half the weight.

What can I expect to see real world?

My bet is that there's no firm answer to that question.

What are your spring rates? What tracks are you going to be running at? How smooth are those tracks? Are the irregularities primarily on the straights or are you going to be getting them in the corners as well? How deep do the ruts get? How high do the bumps get? What kind of sway bars are you using?

Actually, this question you're asking is exactly the kind to ask Cortex. But needless to say, at least some of us here will be very interested in the answer.

 

[Jack Hidley]

You need to look at the geometry of the front and rear suspension. That is going to determine the optimum ride height. That is going to be a function of the FCA and RLCA angles. The gap between the tire and fender arch means nothing.

 

[Fabman]

You need to look at the geometry of the front and rear suspension. That is going to determine the optimum ride height. That is going to be a function of the FCA and RLCA angles. The gap between the tire and fender arch means nothing.

I know....that's why it pains me so.
Like I said earlier, the suspension looks happy...the driver is not.

 

[Fabman]

Front control arms basically flat. Rear trailing arms up 2* to the front.
Looks ballpark to me.