Started buffing for the first time

mfergel

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Started buffing the car for the first time this weekend. No garage so I'm kind of having to do it in steps. Primarily following Seer's outline. Using a Harbor Freight DA with Lake Country Pads and Meguiar's M105/M205. I laid down a piece of tape and did a panel portion, and at least on the front passenger fender, I was surprised that the car isn't really as bad as I thought. I did have to do some wet sanding (3000 grit through 6000 grit) where there was some old pinstriping that was still showing up (like a ghost image). Granted, I think Tungsten hides scratches and dirt better than some other colors. Definitely looking better though.

Only real disappointing thing is that when you get that intimate with your car you discover every single rock chip/etc. As a daily driver with almost 100,000 miles I know I just need to accept some of that. Short of repainting there really isn't much I can do. I'll repair some of the larger ones on some of the fenders. The 1,000's of micro ones along the bottom of the rocker panels and such will just have to stay.
 

muztangman93

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Your getting sand marks out with a da. You could pick up a cheapo harbor freight rotary for prolly $30 and it would be much faster and easier.
 

mfergel

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Your getting sand marks out with a da. You could pick up a cheapo harbor freight rotary for prolly $30 and it would be much faster and easier.

Already have one of those. With the sanding pads, that's pretty high grit. I even have some 1200. I use these to polish out paint for my scale modeling. By time I get to the higher pads I'm already polishing out the sanding marks with those.

I could probably even use the DA, a courser pad and some grittier rubbing compound but I feel like the sanding pads give me a bit more control.
 
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06Rousher

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I feel ya, once I got into detailing I noticed every single scratched and chip that was never noticed..sucks hah
 

Seer

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Invest in a sun gun, they are about $30-40.

Also after you are done polishing, use a product like Menzerna Top Inspection or Car Pro Eraser. Meguiars also has a product called Final Inspection.

A lot of polishes leave behind oils, that also cover up "fine" polishing marks that you won't see until after you re-wash the car or apply some form of alcohol to it to remove them.

This is also a must do step after polishing as sealants and coatings will not bond properly to a polished surface with left over oils.

You also can make your own spray by mixing Isopropyl Alcohol with distilled water 50/50 in a spray bottle. I'd add just a scotch of car soap in there for lubrication.
 

mfergel

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Invest in a sun gun, they are about $30-40.

Also after you are done polishing, use a product like Menzerna Top Inspection or Car Pro Eraser. Meguiars also has a product called Final Inspection.

A lot of polishes leave behind oils, that also cover up "fine" polishing marks that you won't see until after you re-wash the car or apply some form of alcohol to it to remove them.

This is also a must do step after polishing as sealants and coatings will not bond properly to a polished surface with left over oils.

You also can make your own spray by mixing Isopropyl Alcohol with distilled water 50/50 in a spray bottle. I'd add just a scotch of car soap in there for lubrication.

Sun gun - is that what some of the guys are using to see swirls?

After the M105/M205 I plan to wash it again (that M105 is dusty as hell). I started using the Chemical Guys Honeydew.

I'll have to run down to Advanced Auto and see if they have any of those 'eraser' products. I still have about 1/2 the car to buff or so (drivers door, front fender, front bumper, hood, roof). Ultimately, it is starting to look better and I still have the following to apply: Chemical Guys Black Light Hybrid Radiant Finish, Chemical Guys Petes 53-Pearl Signature Paste Wax, Chemical Guys V7 Optical Select High Gloss Spray Sealant Detailer. Nice feeling already to run my fingers on the paint and feel a smoother finish (I clayed the car twice as well).
 

3VPOWA

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http://www.autogeek.net/brinkmann-swirl-finder-light.html

autogeek_2263_109750770


I plan on buying one the next time I cut and polish the car.
 

Seer

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Sun gun - is that what some of the guys are using to see swirls?

After the M105/M205 I plan to wash it again (that M105 is dusty as hell). I started using the Chemical Guys Honeydew.

I'll have to run down to Advanced Auto and see if they have any of those 'eraser' products. I still have about 1/2 the car to buff or so (drivers door, front fender, front bumper, hood, roof). Ultimately, it is starting to look better and I still have the following to apply: Chemical Guys Black Light Hybrid Radiant Finish, Chemical Guys Petes 53-Pearl Signature Paste Wax, Chemical Guys V7 Optical Select High Gloss Spray Sealant Detailer. Nice feeling already to run my fingers on the paint and feel a smoother finish (I clayed the car twice as well).

Different eraser products. This is an actual product called car pro eraser. A standard car wash isnt enough to get rid of polishing oils.
 

Cammed 05

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You can also use isopropyl alcohol 50/50 with water if your careful.
 

mfergel

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One thing Ive noticed, while I do see a difference, is there something about Ford and their paint?? Cripes, the orange peel is nuts. The entire car should be wet sanded but I've heard Ford was just as cheap when it came to giving a decent amount of clear coat.
 

Seer

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One thing Ive noticed, while I do see a difference, is there something about Ford and their paint?? Cripes, the orange peel is nuts. The entire car should be wet sanded but I've heard Ford was just as cheap when it came to giving a decent amount of clear coat.

I wet sanded my gt500
 

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