Time to do the clutch again

[moooosestang]

My spec 3+ is starting to act funny. engagement point seems to be moving and it just feels different. Haven't notice it slipping, but i rarely get to give it full throttle in 4th gear. It probably has 30k miles on it and a few hard launches at the track. i may have rode it a few times in second, my bad. Never been completely happy with the way this clutch engages. it's very on/off. I'm thinking of going down to a 2+ or even a spec stage 2 since i have their aluminum flywheel and i don't make more than 550tq.

Has their been any advancements in simplifying removal of the transmission with a PD blower on the car? Last time i had to lower the K member because the whipple hits the firewall, which sucks! I saw someone said to slide the engine forward may help if you have prothane motor mounts, which i do. I could take the motor mounts out and put some block of wood in their place and drop the motor down 1/2 inch before the pan starts contacting the cross member.

It's been 11 years since i did this last. Not looking forward to it.

 

[moooosestang]

question for anyone with an aftermarket clutch. How many miles did you get out of it? I know this will very widely. Also, did it start to slip? I hammered it in 3rd today, not to redline or anything and it holds fine. Half the disc could be gone and it probably won't slip since i'm lucky to be making 550tq. It's the engagement when easing it out of the garage in reverse or easing it out in 1st that feels weird. like it's not fully engaging for a second then it does. Wish i knew what the mileage was when i put it in. i know it was about 11 years ago. Could be 30-40k miles on it. Regardless i'm replacing it with a 2+. The hydraulic slave is 11 years old and needs to be replaced i'm sure.

 

[Miker]

What was the thinking in changing from a separate transmission bell housing setup to combining them into one piece? Cost? It would be much simpler to work on the trans or clutch if they were separate like they used to be.

 

[Midlife Crises]

I remove the blower and intake manifold so the engine has room to tilt to gain access to the transmission bolts. That way I don’t damage the intercooler tubing.

 

[Midlife Crises]

What was the thinking

They don’t design vehicles to be easy to work on. They are designed to be assembled as components on an assembly line.

 

[moooosestang]

I remove the blower and intake manifold so the engine has room to tilt to gain access to the transmission bolts. That way I don’t damage tie intercooler tubing.

Maybe i should just remove the blower this time. probably a good idea to redo the gasket anyway.

 

[moooosestang]

Maybe i should just remove the blower this time. probably a good idea to redo the gasket anyway.

I forgot the fuel line runs through the blower. Man i don't want to mess with that.

 

[moooosestang]

I got the trans out without issue. I think being able to slide the engine forward helped a lot. I just removed the one bolt going through the prothane motor mounts and rocked the motor back and forth using the tail shaft of the transmission. getting the motor mounts lined back up should be fun. I put a plastic cap on my clutch line from a royal purple gear oil bottle. I secured it with some duct tape and was good all day. came back next morning and brake fluid all over the floor. I'm guessing my clutch master cylinder is going to be a bitch to bleed now? the cap had a split in the side, not sure if i did that or the brake fluid did it. The pilot bearing was a real stinker! I made a shiv out of a mini hack saw blade and used a flat blade and 5lb sledge to finish the job. My slide hammer just wasn't going to get it out without help.

 

[moooosestang]

The actual clutch disc looked fine and still had some life left, the pressure plate looked ok, but the friction plate on the flywheel was warped, glazed, groved, it was bad man. If i ever go with a stage 3+ again i'll use the stock flywheel. I'm not sure how much of the actual disc was making contact.