UCA 07's worn - replace with 11+ parts?

[GriffX]

Hello,

the winter is putting everything on hold, but at least I fill up my parts buying list.

My UCA is clunky and needs to be replaced. Is it a benefit to buy 11+ parts (OEM bracket and arm)
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-upper-suspension-arm-br3z5500a/?c=aT1KQzEwNjkwNSZyPWxheWVyXzE=

Does it change anti-squat? Pinion angle? My car has 3.73 rear end but stock springs combined with Tokico D-Spec.

I read the BMR thread about UCA but I don't find a clear answer.

Thanks!

 

[slackinoff]

I read that bmr article a while back too. Yeah I think if you get the newer upper bracket you use the newer arm. The new body side arm is much beefier. Also, I don't think I recall being a benefit. They were just saying it was compatible.

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[slackinoff]

Also I had a clunk and one of the adjustable jam nuts on the arm has loosened up. ANOTHER edit. Match the arm length and tighten the jam nuts before installing with a little thread locker. Especially the upper jam nut.

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[GriffX]

The Ford part is arm and bracket combined. I don't know if I change to an aftermarket arm, my rear axle is noisy enough no need for another poly bushing. What I understood was that a longer arm has less deflection during movement. I don't understand how driveability is affected.

 

[slackinoff]

The Ford part is arm and bracket combined. I don't know if I change to an aftermarket arm, my rear axle is noisy enough no need for another poly bushing. What I understood was that a longer arm has less deflection during movement. I don't understand how driveability is affected.

I love my adjustable BMR upper arm and bracket. Much more planted in the rear, that feeling of predictability is very noticible. I also replaced the diff bushing with a poly unit.
I never noticed rear axle sounds....and still don't...exauhst is loud enough to cover it I guess


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[702GT]

I had a CHE Double Adjustable UCA on my '08. Poly Bushing with new mount on the top end and spherical on the bottom to the diff connection. Set it to the same length as the stock unit and never looked back. Never failed and never heard a peep from it (that I noticed).

 

[46addict]

The CHE UCAs seem to be overlooked often. I had them on a different car with the stepped spacers from UMI to avoid buying an aftermarket UCA mount. I was able to keep the stock mount with the adjustable CHE UCA with these on. http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=341

 

[mrt2you]

the later UCA and bracket is a bolt on deal for a earlier car. i installed one on my car.
you will need to buy a larger bolt for the one that goes thru the floor. the later one uses a larger one than the earlier models. i had to buy a package of 3, you only need 1, from ford to get it. i don't remember where i put my other 2 or i could sell you 1 cheap, then again a package of 3 was around $10 from ford.

from my understanding the later one is longer than the earlier one. the longer length arm reduces pinion angle change as the suspension pivots up and down. also the later model ones from BMR has a additional bolt hole to help dial in the suspension.

 

[GriffX]

That UMI spacer is interesting, worth a try.

I think the right larger bolt is
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...t-w714389s439/?c=aT1KQzEwNjkwNSZyPWxheWVyXzU=

From this picture the 11+ arm is longer and lower mounted.

When I changed the LCA to J&M extreme, the axle was much noisier, I don't want to increase it. I'm sure the BMR and similar UCA are a drive ability improvement.

The -just a bolt on- information is helpful. One question, how do you tighten the bolt at the diff to avoid distortion in the rubber bushing? Do you drive on ramps to fully load the suspension?

 

[oldVOR]

To properly tighten LCA or UCA bolts, the suspension needs to loaded. Preference is for the car to be level, ie a drive on lift. As an option, rear ramps will also work to keep the suspension loaded, however, with just rear ramps, keep in mind that some weight is transferred forward.

 

[AndrewNagle]

To properly tighten LCA or UCA bolts, the suspension needs to loaded. Preference is for the car to be level, ie a drive on lift. As an option, rear ramps will also work to keep the suspension loaded, however, with just rear ramps, keep in mind that some weight is transferred forward.

Race Ramp wheel cribs is what i use

 

[slackinoff]

Dont forget my clunkn issue. Make sure the jamb nuts on both ends are tight. Could be your problem if you have an.adj upper arm

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[GriffX]

You are right, I should take care of the clunking first.

I have an EZCarjack couple of month now, but this suspension loading things are problematic. I do mark the dust sleeve at the rear dampers for normal street level to "see" the load.

 

[slackinoff]

You are right, I should take care of the clunking first.

I have an EZCarjack couple of month now, but this suspension loading things are problematic. I do mark the dust sleeve at the rear dampers for normal street level to "see" the load.

Those are cool! I don't think it is necessary to have the suspension loaded to tighten jamb nuts. The adjustments are already done, you are just taking up the slack in the threads.....which if you have the actual arm in your hands it feels like zero slack with the jamb nuts dead loose, even pulling and pushing on it with your hands. BUT, that is a high load component and will rattle like a small un-torqued bolt. Unless you want to take the arm off, just droop the rear axle as far as possible to get whatever wrench you can get on there and hulk it down. I could not get to mine with the car loaded, but again, I don't think that matters, the adjustment has already been made.

 

[slackinoff]

You do know what I am talking about on the jamb nuts right? They are not the mounting point bolts. They are the through nuts on the threads that lock down the slack in the threads.

 

[GriffX]

Ok, I see, the weather should get warmer on the weekend, damned cold these days no heater in my garage.

Best features of the lift are the free floor and little weight and no hydraulics laying around. Drawback is the time to change the car or place the lift under it.

 

[ox white]

Yes, replace it with the OEM parts or aftermarket. Ford changed the suspension geometry via the upper arm to reduce the inherent wheelhop of the S197. Still there, but greatly improved.