Watson Racing Roll Bar Install Pics

claudermilk

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My search skills & Google-fu are failing me. I swear at one point someone posted a link to a thread where someone had installed the Watson Racing bar as a bolt-in, bolt-out setup with good pictures of the cutouts he made of the interior panels. I've been searching all around the forum & on Google and cannot seem to find it. Anyone recall this thread?

I do have a link to this one: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?961989-Watson-Racing-Bolt-In-Roll-Bar However, that isn't the one I am thinking of.
 

ford20

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I know there is a thread on bossmustangsonline.com with the Watson bar installed by a bunch of people.
 

Apex50

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Here's a few pics from my install. I just used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel. I painted the gussets black to blend in better, and used some autozone "pimp my ride" trim.

fbbd1d86e6ecc6a8b824a8c47d7d2a29.jpg
68accd4172bdaa39d552aa171d0681a4.jpg
ff108d0992ab80d6f8d4f5e33a7a3746.jpg
 

Mark Aubele

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I just put a Maximum Motorsports bar in my '14 over the weekend, the way the downtubes come down from the main hoop made it nearly impossible to leave the panels in without major surgery, so I left them out. I liked the way the Maximum bar installed much better than the Watson, which is why I went with the MM bar.
 

claudermilk

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Here's a few pics from my install. I just used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel. I painted the gussets black to blend in better, and used some autozone "pimp my ride" trim.

fbbd1d86e6ecc6a8b824a8c47d7d2a29.jpg
68accd4172bdaa39d552aa171d0681a4.jpg
ff108d0992ab80d6f8d4f5e33a7a3746.jpg
Thanks! That is EXACTLY what I was looking for! :happythumbs::worthy:

My plan is to use a Dremel cutoff wheel & try to get a nice, clean cut, then fabricate some kind of tabs & velcro to stick the cutouts back in for DD duty.

Watson has posted detailed install instructions which show the trimming required.

http://www.watsonracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/WR-4ptRollCage.pdf
Yes, they do. I've read over that several times. However, their trimming instructrions are for a permanent-mount. They even state in there that you will need to adjust the trimming for a bolt-in, bolt-out setup, but don't provide any details.

I just put a Maximum Motorsports bar in my '14 over the weekend, the way the downtubes come down from the main hoop made it nearly impossible to leave the panels in without major surgery, so I left them out. I liked the way the Maximum bar installed much better than the Watson, which is why I went with the MM bar.

I looked at the MM for quite a while & was planning on it before running across the Watson one. The way the MM downtubes land, it IS impossible to keep the trim panels without major surgery. For my purposes, the Watson will work better since the bar has to come out for DD use. The main hoop is almost identical, so it's down to which can I more easily pull out after I'm done playing.


BTW, I have kept searching and found this thread on BMO: http://bossmustangsonline.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=70qs0ajois66j9gqqn3s0rq7f5&topic=8371.msg130209
That might be the one I was thinking of, but I swear I recall a thread somewhere with images like what Apex just posted.
 

Apex50

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Cool! Happy to help. One additional piece of advice- the instructions for the 7/16" holes in the gusset plates and rear deck; I went a couple sizes larger. That way the threads don't bind when you're trying to start the bolts. Have gotten it down to a ~30 minute job now.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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I just put a Maximum Motorsports bar in my '14 over the weekend, the way the downtubes come down from the main hoop made it nearly impossible to leave the panels in without major surgery, so I left them out.

B61G8743-M.jpg


Yes, trimming the rear interior panels is a PITA. When I first read this I thought you were saying you left the downtubes themselves out, yikes! ;) Those tubes do need to be installed, of course, to make the bar structurally sound in a rollover and also to anchor your shoulder harnesses in a real impact.

_DSF1824-M.jpg


And Maximum recommends that the rear downbars be WELDED in once they are fitted in the car. They "unbolt" simply to make this kit easier to transport flat on a pallet.

_DSF9114-M.jpg


This goes for all 4-point roll bar kits - WELD THE REAR BARS FULLY TO THE MAIN HOOP or it is almost worthless.

B61G6862-M.jpg


Also, anyone doing track events using a 4-point bar should always order it with the optional diagonal brace, shown above. Maximum will add this for $100, and it adds significant torsional rigidity to the roll bar. Its a MUST HAVE option for track use. Only drag racers would think of ordering a roll bar without this.



Last thing and I'll shut up - the gaps from the bars to the interior panels yall are showing hurt my brain. It looks like the panels were cut with a chain saw and you could drive a truck through the gap. The images above were from my car, our very first Maximum Motorsports 4-point install done 3-4 years ago. The gaps from the interior panels to the tubes are less than 1 mm wide, and we've gotten better on the last dozen installs to the point that the gaps are TIGHT.

_DSC5404-M.jpg


It doesn't take special tools to manage this - just time and patience. Measure, mock-up, mark, cut the opening small, test fit, and repeat. Over and over until you sneak up on the tighter tolerances of the panel to bar fit. A roll bar install on an S197 takes us 8 hours of shop time, because it goes in and out of the car at least 4 times. First time is to mock-up the rear downbars, tack those in the car, and remove to final weld.

B61G9055-M.jpg


Then we start fitting the interior panels to the bar, where it might go in 1-2 or more times. Then it comes out again for final grinding of the newly welded junction and powder coating (or paint). Then it goes in again for the last time when it comes back from powder. Its a 3-4 day process, including the powdering coating time, so we usually schedule a car to be here for a week, and getting the bar made might take 1-4 weeks. If you don't have the patience, skills, welder, tools and such to do this install, don't short-cut it - find a qualified shop who can install your roll bar correctly and cleanly.

jpg_DSC4196%20copy-M.jpg


Adding a proper 4-point roll bar to an HPDE or autocross car is an important decision in your personal safety, and one that shouldn't be taken lightly. Don't just take what you learn on the internet (even from me) and just buy whatever "looks cool" or "easy to install". There are difference in designs that make some designs less safe than others. I won't get into the details but of all of the 4-point bars made for the S197 (and we've seen them all in person), only the Maximum Motorsports bar with a diagonal is what I will install in a car that I want to trust my life to. The fit and finish, materials, gusset bracket for the main hoop mounts, and TUBE LAYOUT are superior to any other 4-point bolt-in kit on the market.

B61G9318-M.jpg


When you get faster or get more serious (or go W2W racing), a proper roll 6- or 8-point roll cage is required, and it is even safer than a 4-point, obviously. With the right gear on. But for a STREET car a roll CAGE can be more dangerous - because with the additional steel tubes close to your head (the upper bars from the main hoop running forward along the roof line) you are less safe without a helmet on. So there is a place for 4-point bars (dual use cars), but they need to be designed, built and installed correctly for the maximum level of protection from a rollover, as well as to make proper anchors for shoulder harnesses. We've seen some sketchy installs and have even fixed a few. Just don't think this is an easy "DIY" install that anyone can or should do without the right experience and skills.

Good luck,
 
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claudermilk

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Thanks for the input, Terry. If I were contemplating permanently installing a bar & removing the rear seats, MM would be the way I'd go. However, when DD the rear seat gets used almost daily, so the bar must come out between track outings--I cannot and will not have the little kids in the back of the car with a roll bar there. That leaves me with the Watson option. I am aware that you guys at Vorshlag don't like the way theirs is set up, but I have those additional compromises with the use of the car to consider. I'd like to think that the shop who preps many of Ford's race Mustangs knows a little about designing a safe roll bar. Hey, at least I'm wise (?) enough to not even consider the Autopower or Cooltech bars... I like that the Watson bar just comes with the diagonal automatically along with the harness crossbar. It seems that the MM & Watson are very similar with detail differences (the main one being downtube placement). From the pictures I've seen the main hoops on the two are more similar than different. So, in the end, it appears the Waston offering makes the best balance of compromises for my needs; it's not perfect, but the best available I've seen thus far.

The dual-use nature also forces the big cutout in the panels (and why I'm looking for the good pics like Apex provided); as I mentioned, I want to make it so I can put the cutouts back in place for DD so it is at least somewhat clean.

I'm a little ways out from making the purchase and just want to gather all the info and tips I can to stew over for a while.

I'm starting to think about how to fab up some kind of cardboard stand-in for the section of trim panel in question and come up with a template. Then I can measure & recut to my heart's content, and cut the actual plastic part once.

Oh, and anther thing to consider is that I'm not pushing the car as hard as you are. I'm still a beginner at this and just doing non-competitive track days. So, I'm still at 8/10s, maybe 9/10s in places. I'm not yet at a Terry-style 11/10s, everything-hanging-out, going for track records level. :worthy:
 

modernbeat

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...Oh, and anther thing to consider is that I'm not pushing the car as hard as you are. I'm still a beginner at this and just doing non-competitive track days. So, I'm still at 8/10s, maybe 9/10s in places. I'm not yet at a Terry-style 11/10s, everything-hanging-out, going for track records level.

The car that Terry posted with the cage, yeah, that one is currently being used exclusively for non-competitive track days. The owner saw that even in that 8/10th environment you can have a bad day. Even if it's not your fault. And wisely chose to upgrade his safety equipment. Fortunately, he has the resources to have a dedicated car for track use. But don't think that just because you aren't setting track records that you are immune to an on track incident.

HPDE car, for now...
B61G9318-M.jpg
 

2013MustangGT

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That's my car. I went all the way with it because at the end of the day I want to go home and see my family. I used to have a roll bar (Maximum Motorsports) in the car. However, I was running a Track Guys event down at TWS and had a pretty bad off. We were running CC and I was going into turn 4. There is a transition were the NASCAR track and the road course track meet. I got on the brakes and the car freaked out and spun me out of control. Apparently the Advance track came back on and try to save me. It did the opposite and tried to kill me. Since this was my first event with Track Guys I had an instructor in the car. He was watching me and saw that I kept the steering wheel straight. It rained hard the day before so if I was going off I wanted to go straight off so we wouldn't flip. However, Advance track said fuck you I want you to spin out. We went over the curb and scared the guy manning the flag station so bad he started to run away. There was a 18" drop into the ditch where my exhaust got f'd up and the whole suspension system was move 2 1/2" to the right. Also, we got up on two wheels and then came back down. Some pretty scary stuff. So, I went full race car build.

BTW my best time at ECR is 2:03 on street tires and I average right around 2:05s. Once I consistently run 2:03s I will switch to R7s and that should get me down to around 1:58s. For comparison I believe Terry runs 1:55s on A6s.
 

claudermilk

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The car that Terry posted with the cage, yeah, that one is currently being used exclusively for non-competitive track days. The owner saw that even in that 8/10th environment you can have a bad day. Even if it's not your fault. And wisely chose to upgrade his safety equipment. Fortunately, he has the resources to have a dedicated car for track use. But don't think that just because you aren't setting track records that you are immune to an on track incident.

HPDE car, for now...
B61G9318-M.jpg

Understood. Again, the car must remain streetable and rear seats usable. Thus I have to make compromises. I figure the "inferior" 4-point from Watson is better than what I have now (i.e., nothing). It also allows me to fulfill the other DD requirements for the car. If I had the space and resources to have a dedicated track toy, I'd do it in a heartbeat. I'm not as rich as some of you guys around here. ;) I really do appreciate the input and take it all into consideration.

Now that I've got a good idea on the roll bar, off to review harness install threads. Right now I'm thinking those forged eyebolts Dave & Terry have mentioned (answered one of my questions a while ago here: http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59691&highlight=eye+bolt&page=24). Looking at something like this guy's solution, but eyebolts in place of the CoolTech brackets (http://bossmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2494.msg106218#msg106218).

...it's ok if the OP derails his own thread, right? :biggrin:
 

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