What have you done to your mustang today?

[BleedinBlue]

Tried putting on my off road H and couldnt get my stock H off. Im a failure.

Been there, did the same on my '06. I have since decided that I really don't like being completely under the car on jackstands, so anything that requires such I just pay to have it done.

 

[Blxcklist]

I sat under there trying to break the stock nuts loose for 30-45min cussing and muttering offensive words. I got the one thats suppose to be a bitch but I couldnt get a socket and breaker bar on the other 3 nuts.


Sooooo fuck it, I dont need a o/r pipe.

 

[Blxcklist]

Been there, did the same on my '06. I have since decided that I really don't like being completely under the car on jackstands, so anything that requires such I just pay to have it done.

Absolutely, I HATE working under jack stands.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

I sat under there trying to break the stock nuts loose for 30-45min cussing and muttering offensive words. I got the one thats suppose to be a bitch but I couldnt get a socket and breaker bar on the other 3 nuts.


Sooooo fuck it, I dont need a o/r pipe.

 

[SSPSTANGBANGER]

That Darren looks hawt! I like the Red.

fixed
Lmao

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

fixed
Lmao

 

[AlbertD]

fixed
Lmao

:Rofl:


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[SNKPWR]

I sat under there trying to break the stock nuts loose for 30-45min cussing and muttering offensive words. I got the one thats suppose to be a bitch but I couldnt get a socket and breaker bar on the other 3 nuts.


Sooooo fuck it, I dont need a o/r pipe.

I had to break 3 of the 4 studs off on mine to get it out. Not a problem since you don't have to reuse them. I'm probably going to pick up new studs to fix it eventually since at some point I'll have to pass emissions.

 

[wht67]

Installed the custom Denso 165A alternator I got from Department of Boost along with a PA PERFORMANCE PREMIUM POWER WIRE KIT.

 

[Scott]

The look good. I just purchased one, should be in this week, any problems fitting the CS bumper


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Not really a problem, you have to dremel the inside webbing out (sorry no pictures because I did it many many moons ago, but you should be able to find examples). There are four holes starting with two in the center that line up with the splash panel and I just removed the 5.5mm bolts and put them back after putting them through the splitter. I then drilled two 1/4" holes through one of the splitter holes near each end. The splitter was fixed to the front inner wheel wall splash shield using the top and bottom outside holes on the spliter. I used a 1/4" drill for these holes to. The splitter was attached using 1/4" aluminum bolts flat washers and nuts in the 6 holes that were drilled. There are some additional holes in the splitter that may be visible, so before putting the splitter on I filled them with body panel plastic plugs and a little black RTV.

Good luck with your install!

 

[Greg Hazlett]

I had to break 3 of the 4 studs off on mine to get it out. Not a problem since you don't have to reuse them. I'm probably going to pick up new studs to fix it eventually since at some point I'll have to pass emissions.

I did the same thing.

 

[claudermilk]

Test-fit one of the 19x10 AMR rims today ...

That is interesting Gabe, I don't remember my 18x10 AMRs being that close to the strut. Wonder if the 19x10s have a different offset. What tire size you putting up front?

Same here. I took a similar picture of the 18x10s:

Seems like there's a little more room. No spacers on mine, either & they work fine. A little rubbing at full lock, but when are you at full lock on the track?

 

[cbass]

Looks like SR end links might be able to pop the bolt and have the end with extra threading stick out the back side? That might give enough clearance for more tire, so long as you get it away from the strut. Or maybe just throwing a couple of washers behind the bracket on the strut so that it bottoms out sooner? That seems kinda ratchet, though.

 

[BleedinBlue]

I had to break 3 of the 4 studs off on mine to get it out. Not a problem since you don't have to reuse them. I'm probably going to pick up new studs to fix it eventually since at some point I'll have to pass emissions.

I'm going to have to figure out emissions next month. I shoulda put on some of those "non-catalytic converters" to avoid that problem.

 

[SNKPWR]

I'm going to have to figure out emissions next month. I shoulda put on some of those "non-catalytic converters" to avoid that problem.

Bob should have you good in the tune of you have somewhere to get it "inspected". Aren't we good for the first five years after the car was manufactured with no inspection?

 

[BleedinBlue]

Bob should have you good in the tune of you have somewhere to get it "inspected". Aren't we good for the first five years after the car was manufactured with no inspection?

I know we are good with emissions, it's the visual safety inspection that will get us. It's possible we're exempt from safety, but if we are it's the first I've heard of the five year rule. I had mine inspected last year, but I wouldn't expect the dopes at Auto Tire to be honest and say I didn't need it. (Going to Google now)

**ha...according to the statute, there is in fact a five year exception. Sucks since I've had this car inspected twice now. I'll double check with the license bureau next month to be sure, I think emissions is up to the County, so we might still need that.

 

[SNKPWR]

I know safety is exempt for five years but I was thinking emissions was also. We have an '09 suburban just got one year tags last fall and our reg renewal postcard said no inspections required. Hoping the one for the mustang in a few months says the same thing.

 

[BleedinBlue]

Last year odd years were exempt...I just checked with the wife and she said the license office told her that last year (after we paid for both inspections)

 

[Gabe]

Same here. I took a similar picture of the 18x10s:

Seems like there's a little more room. No spacers on mine, either & they work fine. A little rubbing at full lock, but when are you at full lock on the track?

Looks like SR end links might be able to pop the bolt and have the end with extra threading stick out the back side? That might give enough clearance for more tire, so long as you get it away from the strut. Or maybe just throwing a couple of washers behind the bracket on the strut so that it bottoms out sooner? That seems kinda ratchet, though.

I'm really not that worried ... if it hits, I have 1/4" spacers I'll throw on, at least temporarily ...

But I don't think a 275 tire on a 10"-wide rim will bubble out at all ... if anything, it might be slightly stretched

 

[skwerl]

The nipple on the sway bar tie rod end next to the tire can be cut off. There's an 18mm or 19mm hex on the back side which can be used for removal and installation. You don't need the small hex on the end of the nipple to keep it from spinning while turning the nut.