wtb stroker crank and rods

[Bobby]

as the title says. looking for forged stroker crank and forged rods.

 

[stang910]

I have Livernois stroker crank and rods never used $800. I'm located on the NC coast. Would really prefer local pickup.

 

[US-1]

Have a 3.800" Kellogg crank and 5.85" Manley h-beams.

 

[Bobby]

how much power can this support. i am looking to make about 1000whp or more and make35psi or so if i have to

 

[US-1]

Rods are rated to 1250 and I've seen them go 1300. Here's your problem: anytime you're over 1000 hp the rod/stroke ratio on a stroker engine becomes problematic. No longer are you using the stroke for extra torque. You'll end up beating the rod bearings all to shit and hammer the engine. Rod angularity causes the crank to whip and twist in the saddles.

If you're serious about 1000 hp then I highly suggest sticking to a stock bore/stroke engine and use a seriously reworked crankshaft along with a billet I-beam rod hooked to a custom piston with killer pins. Once you go beyond 800-900 hp you don't need strokers to make the power. Just let the turbos do that for you.

I know Chevykiller's engine is a big bore/stroker and I am in no way knocking the combination. I have just had better longevity and power production with the engine at 281". You do have to rpm the shit out of it but it is a multi-valve overhead camshaft design you know.

 

[Redfire]

Rods are rated to 1250 and I've seen them go 1300. Here's your problem: anytime you're over 1000 hp the rod/stroke ratio on a stroker engine becomes problematic. No longer are you using the stroke for extra torque. You'll end up beating the rod bearings all to shit and hammer the engine. Rod angularity causes the crank to whip and twist in the saddles.

I have two broken stroker crankshafts to prove this theory. I switched to a big bore with a stock stroke crank to prevent any further crank issues.

 

[Bobby]

ok i see that was just what i was looking for. so any one have a crank and rods to handle this type of power and if so how much. what i am trying to do is have the fastest 3v on 1 power adder and all dont on 93 octane. and also want to have the most hp on a 3v single power adder on 93 octane. then i want to be able to turn up to poost to 30-35 psi and make all kinds of power and really run some good times.

 

[US-1]

what i am trying to do is...

1) have the fastest 3v on 1 power adder and all dont on 93 octane.
2) and also want to have the most hp on a 3v single power adder on 93 octane.
3) then i want to be able to turn up to poost to 30-35 psi and make all kinds of power and really run some good times.

Pick two.


But anyway......I can get you the crank and rods. The crank will be a reworked Cobra unit and I'll have to price the machine work again. Last time I had one done like this was five years ago and I know prices have gone up. Rods....either Manley I-Beams or I can get you a set of Mihovetz's take out rods.

 

[Bobby]

cool that would be great. let me know on price. what should i make the comp at. i am thinking about 9.0:1

 

[US-1]

Compression......uuuuhhhh yeah, right. Here's your problem, Slick. You want to be a hero on 93 octane and a hero on race fuel. Pick one. If you have the compression low enough to be safe on 93 octane then you'll end up hurting your chances to ring up big numbers on race fuel when you turn it up. Shooting for over 1000 hp on a modular engine requires compression. This is one area where you're going to have to compromise. If you go 9:1 then you'll hurt your chances of going over 1000. In order to go over 1000 hp you'll need more compression than you can safely run on 93 when you try to turn it up.

As I said...pick one. But if you need an answer......9.3 to 9.5:1.


By the way...rods are $985. Crank...waiting on the quote.

 

[Bobby]

ok thanks or should i go to the biggest mod motor i can go. like this one but i wouldnt buy it from them. the 351 cu" motor from mmr. check it out

 

[US-1]

ok thanks or should i go to the biggest mod motor i can go. like this one but i wouldnt buy it from them. the 351 cu" motor from mmr. check it out

BLASPHEMER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How dare thou speakest that filth upon such an honorable forum!!!

Or in other words.....what the fuck is wrong with you????

Come on...say it with me: Don't buy shit from MMR. Now, write it on the blackboard 100 times while reciting that line.

If you're looking for something high dollar I can put you into one of these..........

5.4l Navigator based engine. Navi block, Navi heads, Navi timing cover, Navi Valve covers, Lightning Crank
ModMax Billet rods
CP pistons
Custom Billet cams
Double Valve springs with titanium retainers
ModMax 1 mm over stainless steel valves
Heads are completely ported
Arp Head and Main studs
Moroso oil Pan
Cobra Oil pump
Riechard Racing 5.4 to 4.6 adaptor plates
Custom 01 cobra "short runner intake"
Engine has been balanced

About $10K or so.

 

[Bobby]

no i was jut wondering if i should go big like that or not

 

[US-1]

You'll rip that thing to shreds before it makes that kind of power.

 

[Bobby]

so should i just stick with a 281 or do the big bore with a 4.6 forged crank i beam rods and pistons. what would you recommend doing to the motor to handle that sort of power. so far i have arp rod bolts, arp main studs, and arp head studs. what other stuff do i need to get to to make this thing handle any thing i can throw at it.

 

[US-1]

Personally....I'd do the big bore setup. You won't need the rod bolts. They will come with the rods. Besides main and head studs you'll need good oiling and a good dampener. ATI or Innovator's West. If you're locking the VCT you can use the billet Mellings pump. If you keep the VCT you need billet gears. Crank scraper or a good windage tray with a quality oil pan.

 

[Bobby]

i am going to do the lock outs, so i will do mellings pump. i have a ati dampener and the crank shaft scraper and drain backs. i will need a different pan all i have is the stock one

 

[US-1]

Finally got a quote on the crankshaft work. Looking at $750 for the machine work. If you don't have a crank we'll have to get one. Used Cobra cranks are typically $250-300.

 

[Bobby]

ok and what all is done to the crank

 

[US-1]

We cut down the overall diameter 1" on the counterweights. This lightens the crank considerably. All counterweights are knife-edged and polished. Oiling holes are radiused directionally, journals are polished, entire crank is nitrided, then the crank is balanced.