Recent content by rog06gt

It appears that you are not lowered and that both wheels are spinning on take off then focus on the LCA's relocation bracket...that will help your traction issue.

Don't skip on the filter quality, I put a so so filter brand the anti back drain valve got stuck open, when I started the car there was a rattling chain sound in the right valve cover, after inspection there was chain marks inside the cover, the chain never jump a toot I was lucky... We figured...

You also need LCA's relocation bracket, read on about instant center on page 3, even tough they discuss a 4 link setup, the idea behind the instant center is the same... http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0402_rear_suspensions_increased_traction/index2.html

:beerdrink: Againstallodds, Did I dream or you mentioned that you reverse your stock trans crossmember and it fits? Kevin summed it up very well...

Jack your car on one side just aft of the front wheel (max extension of the strut) and check if the spring becomes somewhat loose. The only rubber I see is the bumpstop, there is no top spring isolator? bound to have NVH... Another thing, make your shock soft (rebound & compression...

You need to do it unloaded. Here is alittle trick, when I had my popping noise I used an automotive stethoscope and while I had 2 guys rocking the car up and down at the fender I listened and pin pointed the noise to one of the end link. Ok, so that is a 7/8" bar. Eyeballing it is fine...

+1 Those end links are most likely the cause...make sure you hold the stud while you torque the nut... Moving the front sway bar to the forward hole will definitely make your car flat and reduce the oversteer. - You might have to revise your camber in order to maximize the front contact patch...

+1 I had the same symptoms, misfire on medium to heavy load only, turned out to be #6 plug loose + electrode tip gone...no apparent signs of detonation. Oh, and if you drop a plug on the floor, don't install it, you'll end up chasing another misfire...

Cekim, I have taken my car out at 15F for a leg stretch whenever the road is dry, my garage is non heated about 50F in there, running Royal Purple 75-140, no problem at all, the only thing I do is I make sure that I take it easy the first 15-20 minutes until everything is warmed up then I stomp...

+1 Need to bring the tensionner in the neutral travel position (original), Thump_rrr tensionner will give you peace of mind...

Where did you install your trans cooler? any pics?

Thanks JimIII for the reply, +1, figured out that there was no load present until the converter started to stall... I'm pretty sure that when he changes the TC to a lower stall the billiard table torque curve will be back and power will go up...there is a Mach 1 with a twin screw that went 10.50...

I know one thing is that at that RPM (3000) you would be ready for a street fight anytime...LOL!!! Kind of high no? why not 4 speed auto with electrical overdrive, ie; 3 speed manual ratchet + 1 switch for OD (4th 0.70 ratio) no converter lockup...that would be about 2350 RPM @ 70 MPH with 3.73...

Dave, 28.7” OD non loaded = 2910 RPM @ 70 MPH with 3.55 28.7” OD non loaded = 3058 RPM @ 70 MPH with 3.73 Approximately 28” OD loaded = 2983 RPM @ 70 MPH with 3.55 Approximately 28” OD loaded = 3134 RPM @ 70 MPH with 3.73 http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/gear_calculator.html Cheers

Hi Paul, did Jim gave you an explanation on why your boost was behaving like that before the tune? Good, I'm sure you will see even more power with a tighter TC, the power will go up and the torque will go down...just a guess...we'll see... Did Jim mentioned a retune with the new converter...