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Is there a bypass valve transferring at that time?

Yes. That ground wire connects to the rear of the drivers side cylinder head.

You can see the BMR relocation bracket on the bottom right corner of the table. Next to the orange hammer.

If you are referring to this one; yes you will have to relocate the panhard bar.

I think they can be used on the lower control arm if you complete the slotted mounting holes.

Those darn “O”Rings.

Front wheels pointed towards center is positive toe and is most common for hiway vehicles. Offers stability at speed. Negative toe”pointed out” can be twitchy at speed and scary.

Your alignment numbers look very good to me for a stock suspension. The chassis appears straight, not warped or twisted. In factory form the only adjustment available is the front toe and I would not add more. How does the car accelerate on flat, level ground? Nice and straight I bet. Upset the...

You have 200,000 miles on the clock so a timing set replacement is a very good idea. Remove the front cover and replace the crank gear, timing chains, tensioners and guides and phasers. Use only Ford parts here. Timing the cams with the front cover off is very easy.

When installed, there isn’t much to see.

If you look at the nipple on the center section you can see two “O” Rings. These had failed and allowed the spring perch to wobble around on the nipple. I replaced the “O” Rings with some from a hydraulic supply house but they were not adequate and failed rapidly.

I don’t know how many different camber plates Steeda has offered over the years. This is the set I used for a few years. I had no problems with them until one began to bang going over bumps.

Small world. Welcome to the club.

When I welded the tubes to the center section I used 1/8” 7018 rod. Wire wheel the joint clean and wash with break clean if necessary. No pre-heating needed, just weld 1/4 of the tube, roll the dif. over and weld another 1/4 of the same tube. Roll the housing back to the end of the first weld...

I am curious why you have decided to run limiters in the phasers with the 127350 cams. Comp does not recommend limiting or locking out that grind.

I believe these timing components were damaged from using a two step rev limiter. Stage, push clutch pedal to floor, tranny in first, throttle pedal to floor and rpm bouncing off the first setting of the rev limiter. Let the clutch out and YEE-HAA.

The DW300 is a very good pump with its install kit. I’m running two of them. It does not come with a fuel level sending unit.

I can’t think of anything that would come and go like that. Broken or loose motor mount? Transmission mount?

There is no fuel on the passenger side below 1/2 tank. It is transferred to the drivers side.

I would use the 05 ECU that matches the chassis and tune it for the mods in the new motor.

So the car must be in gear or moving to make the noise?

Great weekend of racing. I might have chewed my fingernails to nubs before the end of the second day.

Hi flow cats might help a bit if they dint hurt you performance. I tried mid mounted glass packs once and they sounded just awful.

Your 2010 GT had a very good closed cold air intake on it when it left the factory. Try to find a 2010 air box and duct and restore the inlet to stock and you may find the funky lag goes away. Also the low miles are great but the car is old enough for some of the rubber hoses to degrade. Small...

I have run a couple different clutch, transmission combinations in my 2010 and after my first mistake I measure the TOB preload before assembly. I have measured the stock Ford, Exedy and McLeod hydraulic units and they are all exactly the same length so the problem does not originate with the...