Breaking in a new motor?

thump_rrr

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I bought my car on a Thursday night and by Saturday morning I was at the track running.
 

ZmanM3

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Larry_H said:
Ron, You will break in the new motor exactly as I tell you to....I've already told you that you have to run it till its up to normal operating temp, then change the oil and filter.....OK, your done...all broke in....now, go drive it like you're trying to give the Troopers writer's cramps!!!!!!

Now that is the way to break in an engine!!
 

MikeVistaBlue06

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1. Let it always warm up to operating temperature before doing any of this stuff.

2. For the first 500 miles keep the RPM moving about. If you have to drive on a freeway, change gears so the rpms won't set in the same area the whole time. I ususally change the rpm about every 5 minutes.

3. Some brief full throttle acceleration (after it is warmed up!) is advised after the first 50 miles. This will help seat the rings and build compression.

4. Don't use synthetic oil for break-in--your rings may not seat! Rings must be able to "scuff-in" to seat properly. I'd bet those engines that come with synthetic in them have first seen regular dino and have been run through a break-in on a dyno.......

I have done this on every new car I have bought and none use any oil and the engines have always been strong.

Hope this helps.

Mike
 

thump_rrr

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The 1/4 mile is the best place to break in a motor.
It goes through the entire rpm range 4 times in 10-13 seconds :D
 

ZmanM3

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thump_rrr said:
The 1/4 mile is the best place to break in a motor.
It goes through the entire rpm range 4 times in 10-13 seconds :D

Hmm how about the 1/4 mile followed by a couple of laps on a 2 or 3 mile road course!
 

ZmanM3

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94tbird said:
now your onto something zman!

I like to think of myself as an idiot savant :D

Hey, wait a sec, that didn't come out right. :evil:

I like to think of myself as a genus, thats what I ment, just forget about that first part. Mods mods strike this post! :x
 

MrClean

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I varied the RPM for the 1st 1000 miles, downshifting and upshifting like a crazy man on the fwy....also did full rpms range and some WOT runs to 6000. at 1200 miles, changed the original oil to RP 5W20.

FYI, I test drove another new GT when we were trying to identify the driveline vibration issue with the dealer, and mine felt a LOT stronger (this is when it was stock, at about 800 miles).
 

GI Joe

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my last motor got broke in on the dyno...42 dyno runs...LOL
My 05 motor get the treatment tomorrow...probably a more traditional break-in...
 

ChevyKiller

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Factory engines are a little different than rebuilt in the build process.

What I have been told is pretty close to what Joe heard from God...

1. Use a heavy oil, run car for 10-20 minutes, shut off car and change oil.
2. Put it on the dyno and run it for about 10-20 minutes at even rpm and change oil.
3. Make 3-4 full pulls on the dyno and change oil to synthetic.
4. Go drive it like you stole it.

My first build I put 1000 miles before switching to synthetic but later heard from some engine builders it does not take even 100 miles to seat the rings.
 

Larry_H

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soft iron rings (stock) seat very quickly....chromemoly rings(racing) take between 750 - 1500 miles...either way, its not how you drive/run the motor that seats the rings....they are gonna seat! seating rings is very misunderstood....when your rings "seat" they are merely heating and cooling and in that they are changing shape to conform to the cylinder walls. Thats all it is. Use good oil and drive the crap out of it!
 
Q

qwkcoupe

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I ran at 13.6 @ 102+ after doing this

I follow this practice to get it broke in quick and hard after three progressive warm up, load it up cycles.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I ran the 13.6 @ almost 103MPH in 53* drippy wet dew weather with ~3000 miles on the clock after driving my car like I stole it!

You will also find a method to break-in Radio Controlled Nitro burning engines that has you, not idle the thing to break it in, but do 3 controlled warm up, load up, cycles and walla .. done.

I call it warm up and load up cycles. You'll have to read the link to understand what I mean. Thanks.
 
Q

qwkcoupe

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The idea is to break in the rings quickly, by not slidding them along the fresh cylinder hone, but letting cylinder pressure push the rings into the cylinder hone. Stepping up the engine load in phases ~40%, then ~60%, then 100% in three heat cycle phases get this done quick and ensures the absolute best ring seal as depicted in the pictures on the link in my prior post.

also, when I worked at a cycle shop, we broke them in on the bench real quick then went out and rode the mess out them in a simmilar stepped approach.
 

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