Hoosier Tires on 17x8 Rims

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Hello everyone,

I found a good price on a used set of Hooiser A6 275/40/17 tires. I'm running in F Stock on 17x8 rims. Has anyone tried this tire size on stock wheels?

Thanks in advance, Robert
 
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I can stay in F Stock as long as I use a rim that is the same size the stock rims. I believe the stock rims are 17x8 with a option for 18x8.5. This a 2008 Mustang GT.
 

kevinatfms

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but i thought in f stock you cannot run r compounds?

anyways i would check out the more true 255/45-17 r6 if you can use the r compounds in that class. its perfect for an 8" wide wheel over the 275 which i would run on a 9-10" wheel.
 

jayel579

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You will be fine with that tire size. Just remember that Ho-Ho's really like camber so if you are not getting around -2.0 degrees of camber you will burn them up pretty quickly, or should I say, quickly for a Ho-Ho. I have run 275-40-17 v710s/RA1s/R888s and have not had a problem on a 17x8 rim.
 

Rapid

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You are fine in F Stock with any tire you can stuff on the rim. I am trying out a set of 315s on 18 x 8s. They rub a just a little at the rear but no problem other wise. I don't think they are the right tire for me but they were used and very cheep and in good shape.
 

Rapid

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You are fine in F Stock with any tire you can stuff on the rim. I am trying out a set of 315s on 18 x 8s. They rub a just a little at the rear but no problem other wise. I don't think they are the right tire for me but they were used and very cheep and in good shape.

To counter the lack of camber run extra pressure up front. 45 to start and back down if you can. The outside shoulder is what suffers the most.
 

Norm Peterson

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but i thought in f stock you cannot run r compounds?
In F Stock you can run any DOT tire.

For the very short durations of autocross runs, and over the very short total tread life that is life with R-comps, you can "get away with" mounting tires on much narrower rims than is considered acceptable for unrestricted street use. You'll either cord them or heat-cycle them into worthlessness before you'd see an actual heat-related failure.


Norm
 
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Thanks for all the comments and advice. The 275/40/17 tires probably aren't the idea size for the rims, but I found a really good price on a used set.

My next question was about tire pressure, so I appreciate the advice.

I slotted the Koni struts and I was able to get about -1.8 degrees of camber. I can probably remove more material and get more negative camber.

I'm currently running 255/40/17 Hankook R-S3 in the RTR class. They have been very competitive in the regions in my area. I think they're better than the Kumho XS.
 

TGR96

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I slotted the Koni struts and I was able to get about -1.8 degrees of camber. I can probably remove more material and get more negative camber.
What did you mean by "slotted the Koni struts?" I assume that you took a grinder, cut off wheel, etc. to some part of the metal strut body. I am trying to envision what you are referring to, and I can't figure it out.
 

cito

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Only slot the specified amount or you might be in trouble with the rules (probably not an issue locally, but could be if you went even to a divisional).

The Hoosier tires are built different than most street tires. I have run 305's on 9 inch rims, 295 and 285 on 8 inch rims with no problems. They are a bit cantilevered which allows that. When I ran an RX8, the 285 and 295 Hoosiers wore better than the 245's all on the same 8 inch rims. You need to take care of Hoosier tires or you will hasten their demise. No quicker way to ruin a Hoosier than to burn too quickly into a corner and have that expensive rubber wear right off of the cords as you understeer. You have to be nicer to them than the good street tires like the R-S3.

You definitely want A6's and not R6's. If you are worried about cost and wear, get V710's instead--though it should be noted that V710's are a lot more difficult to mount on rims thinner than for which they were designed.

Long story short, I wouldn't hesitate to run those tires.
 

cito

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He is talking about the attached.
 

Attachments

  • camber adjust (1).pdf
    22.5 KB · Views: 15

jayel579

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Cool. That makes sense. Thanks for sharing.

Factory crash bolts, done by body shops to realign the car after the front end has taken an impact. They never get the strut towers back to absolute perfect from the factory, especially if Geico is paying for it!
 
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I used a dremel to remove material from the Koni struts. The factory struts have marks on them that indicate how much material can be removed. I was really conservative on the amount of material that I removed...you can always grind off more metal, but you cannot add it back.

Thanks for the tire advice. I really hate understeer. I try to enter the corner slow and get on the gas early. I remember cording a new BFG R1 several years ago driving an Eclipse GSX...not a good feeling.
 

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