Detailing Questions-Answered

NastyStang113 said:

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Yeah, I'll go ahead and say it for you. . .

Shaffe said:

Any advice on how to get swirl marks out of the car?

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That is pretty much what half of the first post in this thread is about, not to mention all throughout this thread.

GRAYPNY said:

I'll going to jump to the end here and ask what pad do i use on light scratches and swirls for the Porter Cable buffer?

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Also, refer to the first post in this thread and mentioned throughout the thread.

Now that we know who follows instructions.......

we should update this to include newer types of products like Aquartz etc.

Have it it bro, I don't know anything about it, yet. Write something up about it and see if we can get Dave to squeeze it in somewhere on the first page.

I just may since nano resins are redefining detailing

I think you should, it's good to know about them. I'm very seriously thinking about getting some to try out.

Nano based resin technology can last up to two years with 1 application. The reload sprays add slickness and depth that mimic most new high end carnauba waxes as well.

Ultra hard coating
Layer is approximately:
0.7 µm ~1.5 µm
Weather-resistance. provides durable protection against rain, sun, salt, and anything else Mother Nature throws at it. The anti-corrosive coating holds up in all weather conditions.
High gloss shine. contains nano fiber glass, resulting in a deep, reflective shine.
Water and oil proof finish. provides incomparably strong water and oil repellency. This hydrophobic effect prevents water spots and oily stains from attaching to the paintwork.
Smooth, dirt repellent surface. nano particles fill in tiny swirls and imperfections in the paint to make it perfectly smooth. Therefore, dirt and dirty water cannot settle into any crevices. The finish is also resistant to bugs, UV rays, acids, and salts. Plus, the slick surface is anti-static and washes off easily.
Anti Calcium Effect. prevents mineral deposits from bonding to the vehicle's surface so water spots can be wiped off.
Detergent-resistant protection. cannot be removed by water, alkaline or other detergents, or by pressure washers. It lasts up to two years!
Self-cleaning effect. Most dirt and debris will not stick in the first place so you may find yourself washing your vehicle much less often
Can be applied to virtually any surface: glass, wheels, plastics, leather, and rubber.

CQuartz illustration

You need to make sure your surface has been polished, since applying these resins will essentially lock your finish in place until it wears off. Can only wear off from buffing or natural recourse.

Benefits:
Anti scratch improved by 50%
Fire and Flame Retardant
Antioxidant
Insulation property
Anti static
Anti acids and salts
Excellent high gloss effect - mirror finish.
HydroPhobic Water-repelling
Anti Calcium effect
Dirt-deflecting
Easy to clean/self cleaning effect
Weather protection
UV - weather-resistant
Insects and flies repellent
Anti corrosion
No more waxing!
Preserve car value condition

video on how to apply the resin
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNgGo-eCov4&feature=player_embedded

What kind of polish do people use? I recently tried Meguires Ultimate Polish and i wasnt impressed. I really really had to try to get it off my car and I barely even let it sit. I put it on my hood which was cool to the touch and tried to take it off and it was rediculious. I had to hunker down just to get the stuff off

ford20 said:

What kind of polish do people use? I recently tried Meguires Ultimate Polish and i wasnt impressed. I really really had to try to get it off my car and I barely even let it sit. I put it on my hood which was cool to the touch and tried to take it off and it was rediculious. I had to hunker down just to get the stuff off

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Personally, using polish without a rotary or random orbit buffer is useless IMO. I would just glaze it and carnuba it if you are gonna go that route. Right now I'm using Poor Boy's Black Hole Glaze and Dodo Juice Blue Velvet for wax.

ford20 said:

What kind of polish do people use? I recently tried Meguires Ultimate Polish and i wasnt impressed. I really really had to try to get it off my car and I barely even let it sit. I put it on my hood which was cool to the touch and tried to take it off and it was rediculious. I had to hunker down just to get the stuff off

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Lake Country does in fact make pads for compounding and polishing that can be used by hand. But theyre surely not meant to be used to do the entire car with. Mainly small compact areas for light touching up.

If you're going to polish the car, either go Rotary (which I do not recommend for beginners, or if you do want to go this route, goto the junk yard and buy some scrap panels to practice on).

Or a Dual Action Polisher (PC 7424XP, Flex etc).

As far as polishes go, I am a fan of Menzerna. Super Intensive Polish for my compound, I like PO85RD for a finisher, as well as Power Finish as a one step all polish for lighter colored cars or cars that don't need a lot of attention.

If you're not willing to make the investment in a Rotary or DA as well as their pads, backing plates etc. Then as Black Sunshine said, just glaze the car, and put a carnauba wax on top. Because polishing by hand is just not going to happen.

I am currently looking for a alternative for m105/205 combo. I don't know if it's just me, but I always get terrible dusting from the 105 when it's breaking down. I was considering buying CG v36/38 combo, does anyone here have any experience with these? If so, are they comparable in terms of ease of wipe off, time to break down, and cutting potential as the 105/205? Sorry for all the questions, would appreciate any help.

DeceptionGT/CS said:

I am currently looking for a alternative for m105/205 combo. I don't know if it's just me, but I always get terrible dusting from the 105 when it's breaking down. I was considering buying CG v36/38 combo, does anyone here have any experience with these? If so, are they comparable in terms of ease of wipe off, time to break down, and cutting potential as the 105/205? Sorry for all the questions, would appreciate any help.

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Yes #105 does dust quite a bit. I loved #105 and #205 until I started having problems with it in certain weather conditions. I recently bought Menzerna Super Intensive Polish and PO85RD and this will be a replacement. It's going to be a much better combination. I would recommend the same to you.

I'm out of M105 and since I didn't get any with my order like I was supposed to, I'm going to pick up some SIP this time as well. I think I'm still going to stick with the M205 as a finishing polish, though. For one thing, I really have super results with it, and for another, I have a shit ton of it already, lol

NastyStang113 said:

Yes #105 does dust quite a bit. I loved #105 and #205 until I started having problems with it in certain weather conditions. I recently bought Menzerna Super Intensive Polish and PO85RD and this will be a replacement. It's going to be a much better combination. I would recommend the same to you.

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I'm going to have to try it. M105/205 was working well for me, but the air compressor went, and the dust started driving me bat shit insane.

Have any of you tried Menzerna Finishing Glaze for a glaze? Thoughts? Favorites?

erat said:

Have any of you tried Menzerna Finishing Glaze for a glaze? Thoughts? Favorites?

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Yep, nice product.

Before I used resins, I would use Zymol HD Cleanse as my glaze before applying Vintage though.

I get quite a bit of dusting with Poorboys SSR 2.5....I'd replace it in a heartbeat if I didn't have so much of it laying around, and the fact that it smells like bubble gum doesn't hurt anything...

Seer said:

Yep, nice product.

Before I used resins, I would use Zymol HD Cleanse as my glaze before applying Vintage though.

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Whoa, you'll have to teach me something. I thought that cleanser was "soap" to strip old wax. I need a filler for this application.

erat said:

Whoa, you'll have to teach me something. I thought that cleanser was "soap" to strip old wax. I need a filler for this application.

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It is... as all glazes have cleaners in them.

Vintage would usually last me about 2-3 months. I'd put 2 coats of it on at a time, 24 hours apart, but before I'd apply HD Cleanse.

It would remove anything that was left, so I could start over.

Beyond popular belief, "layering" is a myth. I only put on 2 coats, to ensure even coverage.

Even the whole zaino ordeal with the more layers the better, is bs. It promotes product over-usage so you would order more often.

BlackSunshine said:

Personally, using polish without a rotary or random orbit buffer is useless IMO. I would just glaze it and carnuba it if you are gonna go that route. Right now I'm using Poor Boy's Black Hole Glaze and Dodo Juice Blue Velvet for wax.

Click to expand...

Seer said:

Lake Country does in fact make pads for compounding and polishing that can be used by hand. But theyre surely not meant to be used to do the entire car with. Mainly small compact areas for light touching up.

If you're going to polish the car, either go Rotary (which I do not recommend for beginners, or if you do want to go this route, goto the junk yard and buy some scrap panels to practice on).

Or a Dual Action Polisher (PC 7424XP, Flex etc).

As far as polishes go, I am a fan of Menzerna. Super Intensive Polish for my compound, I like PO85RD for a finisher, as well as Power Finish as a one step all polish for lighter colored cars or cars that don't need a lot of attention.

If you're not willing to make the investment in a Rotary or DA as well as their pads, backing plates etc. Then as Black Sunshine said, just glaze the car, and put a carnauba wax on top. Because polishing by hand is just not going to happen.

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Awesome!! Thanks for the information!!