Valve spring upgrade

I'm upgrading valve springs in my 06 GT and was wondering if anyone had an tech tips or tricks on the best way to do it. The compressor I'm using is from Euroexport and can't be used with cams installed. I'm currently installing and removing the cam between each cylinder to try and keep the timing because I would like to avoid pulling the timing cover if possible. Any ideas that would be easier or save a little time?


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There is a spring compressor that is usable with the cam on the motor. Look for 3v spring compressor.

Wes06 said:

There is a spring compressor that is usable with the cam on the motor. Look for 3v spring compressor.

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I have the otc compressor for the 3 valve that works with the cam installed. It works well for taking the rockers and stock springs out. But i can't compress the spring by hand enough to get the top piece threaded on with the comp springs. They're not much taller but it must be enough. I should've gotten the more expensive one with set screws and a handle instead. Lesson learned! Never cheap out on tools


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Euroexport makes a plate that bolts onto the 3v cam towers, I thought about buying one but I'm done with changing springs with the heads installed. Twice is one too many times for me.

The main thing is to keep the chain tight so it wont drop off the sprocket and use compressed air with a spark plug adapter to keep the valve from dropping.

Also stuff rags around the springs so you don't loose a keeper which suxz.

That is the compressor im using and it works great! But im with you, when this is done i will not be doing them in the car ever again. i dont have shop air which is why ive been installing and removing the cams. ill do a cylinder install the cam put the gear on and pull the wedge rotate it to the next tdc, wedge it and pull the gear back off the cam and the cam out. its not difficult by any means just tedious and very time consuming! and i actually made the mistake of not having rags in the oil galleys and dropped a keeper in it already..

I went to the ford dealer that I bought my mustang at, talked to the service manager, and borrowed their spring compressor over the weekend. Get a telescoping magnet st the auto parts store for 1.99 and your set

I've seen people use rope to push through the sparkplug hole and fill the cylinder to prevent valve drop

I just used the Eurosport compressor to do my springs, worked awesome. obviously cams have to be out, but I would remove the cams to do springs anyway. The only other option was the freedom tool which works but is so much more difficult when cams are in.

wdavid531 said:

I'm upgrading valve springs in my 06 GT and was wondering if anyone had an tech tips or tricks on the best way to do it. The compressor I'm using is from Euroexport and can't be used with cams installed. I'm currently installing and removing the cam between each cylinder to try and keep the timing because I would like to avoid pulling the timing cover if possible. Any ideas that would be easier or save a little time?


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Get a wedge tool, I think Macman sells them on here. You do not need to remove the front cover. If you search YouTube Livernois has a video of what I am talking about. Take cams out and mark phaser and chain to keep time while wedge is in place.

Thanks for the help guys. I checked out that youtube video. Definitely helps give me an idea of what I need to do. If it can be helped this will be my first and last time doing it in the car lol

sdleo29 said:

Get a wedge tool, I think Macman sells them on here. You do not need to remove the front cover. If you search YouTube Livernois has a video of what I am talking about. Take cams out and mark phaser and chain to keep time while wedge is in place.

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Little off topic but after the springs and cams are done I'm wanting to get a dyno tune. I would like to be as close to 500 to the wheels as I can get. Are you still on a stock bottom at 503hp? I just dont want to snap a rod or something and ive heard you cant really take a 3v over 450-475 safely.

Wes06 said:

I've seen people use rope to push through the sparkplug hole and fill the cylinder to prevent valve drop

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That's ingenious. Some of the stuff people come up with in a pinch is awesome

wdavid531 said:

Little off topic but after the springs and cams are done I'm wanting to get a dyno tune. I would like to be as close to 500 to the wheels as I can get. Are you still on a stock bottom at 503hp? I just dont want to snap a rod or something and ive heard you cant really take a 3v over 450-475 safely.

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You heard right. It mainly depends on how aggressive the tune is, how often you race the car, and your torque level but 450-475 seems to be the consensus.

46addict said:

You heard right. It mainly depends on how aggressive the tune is, how often you race the car, and your torque level but 450-475 seems to be the consensus.

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The plan is to start out as a weekend warrior racing maybe a couple times a month but it will be for street use 85% of the time. Any suggestions from anyone on a tuner around south central Indiana? Willing to drive a few hours to make sure its done right.

wdavid531 said:

Little off topic but after the springs and cams are done I'm wanting to get a dyno tune. I would like to be as close to 500 to the wheels as I can get. Are you still on a stock bottom at 503hp? I just dont want to snap a rod or something and ive heard you cant really take a 3v over 450-475 safely.

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Yes, stock bottom end, tune has a lot to do with it in terms of not going boom, however others have gone up in flames with less power... of course I can't leave well enough alone and want to go to 700 on pump gas, so new motor is just about done....just have to get DOB manifold and VMP/trinity blower... can't fuggin wait

sdleo29 said:

Yes, stock bottom end, tune has a lot to do with it in terms of not going boom, however others have gone up in flames with less power... of course I can't leave well enough alone and want to go to 700 on pump gas, so new motor is just about done....just have to get DOB manifold and VMP/trinity blower... can't fuggin wait

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Thats gonna be so sweet. I know what you mean about not leaving it alone haha I just finished installing my turbo and before I even got it tuned i decided to go ahead and get some cams ground for it... Even though i could make the 500 I want without them. What block did you go with? Keeping it a 3 valve?

Also side note. If your doing all springs, and have to remove them cam during each cylinder. Why not just remove the front cover. Pull timing sets and re time at the end?
Just seems to be a lot of trouble to avoid pulling front timing cover. And more chances to mess up cam caps during all those on/off times

Wes06 said:

Also side note. If your doing all springs, and have to remove them cam during each cylinder. Why not just remove the front cover. Pull timing sets and re time at the end?
Just seems to be a lot of trouble to avoid pulling front timing cover. And more chances to mess up cam caps during all those on/off times

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Well when i first started the pipes and turbo were in the way but I went ahead and pulled all that stuff out of the way. I probably will pull the cover though. Im not totally sure its still timed now anyways. Rather be safe than stuck with bent valves and no money!

yea just pull the cover and pop the chains, that way you dont have to re-install the cams 4 times each, just seemed like more trouble than its worth when you can pull cover

Wes06 said:

I've seen people use rope to push through the sparkplug hole and fill the cylinder to prevent valve drop

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I would have never thought of that...