sportinawoody
!@#$%^&*(
Okay, 14 k miles on new build over 1 1/2 years of somewhat abusive mountain driving and sprung an oil leak from timing cover and front seal. I could not find any resource for removing the pcv valve as this seems to be an enormous restriction once vacuum is disabled so this is how I got to this point since replacing gaskets/seals every 15k is not an option. tThis is my 3rd valve cover to figure out the best method and this is the easiest of the 3. Brief run down, new built stoker, rebuilt whipple seeing 16 lbs street 18 track. Pcv is disconnected completely from intake and tube. I have a vented dual inlet catch can. 1st, You need to retain the factory baffle and not alter it in much of any way. it is sealed around the entire contact area and riveted with pot metal rivets which WILL NOT ADHERE TO WELDING, so don't waste your time grinding heads off to reinstall baffle. if you deviate from factory baffles or mess up the silicone gasket, you're more than likely going to have oil blow by issues as evidenced by this thread. reference post #107 http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17863&highlight=pcv&page=6
It takes patience and a dremel with cutting wheels and either welding skills or a competent resource. basically I cut a section out of the baffle as to not upset any of the other gasket and rolled back the rubber gasket surrounding the pcv tube. cut an upside down c in the tube hugging the top and pry it open to access the valve and pry the valve out then fold it back down, have the seams welded, then the baffle welded back in place. I will ad the completed pics once I get them back from the paint shop. And for god's sake clean clean clean the cover before using it after welding/modding. I know my welds look like shit LOL
It takes patience and a dremel with cutting wheels and either welding skills or a competent resource. basically I cut a section out of the baffle as to not upset any of the other gasket and rolled back the rubber gasket surrounding the pcv tube. cut an upside down c in the tube hugging the top and pry it open to access the valve and pry the valve out then fold it back down, have the seams welded, then the baffle welded back in place. I will ad the completed pics once I get them back from the paint shop. And for god's sake clean clean clean the cover before using it after welding/modding. I know my welds look like shit LOL
Last edited: