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2005+ Ford Mustang v6 4.0L Tech Technical discussion about the 2005+ Ford Mustang 4.0L v6

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Old 08-22-2017, 12:09 AM   #21
MSgt46270
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This reminds me when my 2005 GT broke down with no warning. Had it towed to the dealer and they told me I ran out of gas, but the gas gauge was should gas in the tank. The float in the gas tank was replaced and problem fixed.

I have no idea on how to help you, best of luck.
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Old 08-22-2017, 03:04 PM   #22
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So I will check for pressure with rented gauges from AUTOZONE. Where do I connect them? Does anyone have an image? Thanks again.
Unfortunately, Ford had a better idea, and deleted the schreader (sp?) valve from the fuel rail on the '05 and up models. Sucks. I bought a block and gauge that mounts between the fuel rail and the Fuel Rail Pressure/Temp Sensor for like $50 on eBay. ( check here : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metco-MFF000...pYqni3&vxp=mtr)

You can find a 1/4" 0-100psi gauge anywhere.
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Old 08-22-2017, 07:57 PM   #23
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What are conditions that could prevent air and what are troubleshooting methods for this?
If the throttle body isnt opening no air will get into the combustion chambers. These motors dont use iac's because the throttle body does the work of one. When the car is off the tb is closed. You can verify this by pulling the intake tubing and turning the key on to see if the throttle opens at all. Its possible the throttle body motor is dead but I have yet to see that happen. Do that along with the test stated above about pulling the plugs after cranking.

It still could be anti theft though, good call. Op is the theft light flashing?
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:27 PM   #24
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Hi all! Well after checking and finding the car had fuel pressure I relented and took the car to a shop. I told them all I had done. The called me back and said they were 100% certain my problem was blocked Cats. They they could be replaced for $600 dollars before tax. I asked a mechanic friend in another state and he said the symptoms could lead to that. I told the shop manager ok. He later called me and told me the muffler got damaged and it was up to me as to whether I wanted to drive it with no muffler which wasn't really loud or he could order me a after market replacement. After hearing the car and being told by the shop owner that it was legal. I decided to take the car and decide on a muffler later. It actually doesn't sound abnormally loud at all. I was wondering if this is ok to drive or should I have a muffler or pipe coming back. Also is it possible that blocked cats and muffler could do this? I checked the shop on Yelp and they had all good reviews. He told me he had to core the cats so I didn't get them back. Thoughts?
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:36 PM   #25
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Dude locally had his cats clog on his 4.0 while driving. Either hollowed them out or replaced with pipes and was fine after.

Muffler if it broke and covered the hole it's possible it prevented gasses from exiting and stalled the car
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Old 09-07-2017, 12:59 AM   #26
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Hi all! Well after checking and finding the car had fuel pressure I relented and took the car to a shop. I told them all I had done. The called me back and said they were 100% certain my problem was blocked Cats. They they could be replaced for $600 dollars before tax. I asked a mechanic friend in another state and he said the symptoms could lead to that. I told the shop manager ok. He later called me and told me the muffler got damaged and it was up to me as to whether I wanted to drive it with no muffler which wasn't really loud or he could order me a after market replacement. After hearing the car and being told by the shop owner that it was legal. I decided to take the car and decide on a muffler later. It actually doesn't sound abnormally loud at all. I was wondering if this is ok to drive or should I have a muffler or pipe coming back. Also is it possible that blocked cats and muffler could do this? I checked the shop on Yelp and they had all good reviews. He told me he had to core the cats so I didn't get them back. Thoughts?
There is no such thing as a core on cats, however the junk man will pay up to $200 each on some of them motherfuckers.
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:25 AM   #27
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Unfortunately, Ford had a better idea, and deleted the schreader (sp?) valve from the fuel rail on the '05 and up models. Sucks. I bought a block and gauge that mounts between the fuel rail and the Fuel Rail Pressure/Temp Sensor for like $50 on eBay. ( check here : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metco-MFF000...pYqni3&vxp=mtr)

You can find a 1/4" 0-100psi gauge anywhere.
You can measure fuel rail pressure by plugging into the OBD port with either an X3 or an aeroforce gauge. Mine sits at 40 psi, but that's on a 281 ci 3V, 2010 GT.
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Old 09-09-2017, 12:07 AM   #28
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You can measure fuel rail pressure by plugging into the OBD port with either an X3 or an aeroforce gauge. Mine sits at 40 psi, but that's on a 281 ci 3V, 2010 GT.
Or just about any decent scan tool will allow you to read things like fuel rail pressure, fuel trim data, O2 Sensor data, etc. But this data is based on what the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor is sending to the PCM. So if the FRPS (or Fuel Rail Temperature Sensor) is off, so is the data being sent to the PCM. Remember the fuel pressure is a function of pressure and temperature. Higher fuel rail temp, means higher pressure to keep fuel from boiling in the rail.

Best solution is a mechanical gauge either mounted on the fuel rail or on one of the lines leading to the rail as Ford recommends.
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