The spare parts motor build

BruceH

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Now that the BBB (big bore boss) is built, installed, and tuned the next thing on my list is to assemble the old block into an engine. I have plenty of spare parts around the garage.

Today I cleaned up the decks. They cleaned up fairly nice. Notice the 25,000 mile ridge, I don't think it's too bad at all. I've already measured the end play and side rod clearances. All is good. So good that I'm not freshening up the bearings. It used no oil and the phasers always worked as commanded so oil flow was good to the top end.

Tomorrow the deck surface will be verified as flat. The two almost new 2009 heads that are going on it will be cleaned and straight edged. Then they are being bolted on and I'll have a nice long block on the stand. Compression will be 11:1 with the flat top Mahle pistons and stock combustion chambers. It's a little over 285 cubic inches because of the .030" overbore.

I had originally planned on building a whole motor but for now it's just going to be a long block. I'll probably put the windage tray and oil pan on too. I have two oil pans and two new gaskets, lol.





 

JoshK

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^^good, you need to keep that block until I am done buying parts for this winters build so I can buy it!
 

lethe

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You think I'm kidding.......

Not at all.. The the motor won't be touched unless someone else pulls the trigger on it. As much as i would enjoy having a spare motor i have other things to spend money one.
 

BruceH

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Put the heads on today. They passed the straight edge test for flatness as did the block decks. Cleaned everything up and bolted them on.

Cleaned heads:





FRPP head gaskets on. They measured .031" compressed. They are always that size for me.







Ready to be bolted down and all bolted down. 30 ft lbs, 90 degrees, and 90 degrees.





That's it. Instant long block. Compression calculates out to 11.27. The deck height is .003", bore 3.581, stroke is stock at 3.543, valve relief results in 1cc of piston volume and I'm using the 3v standard combustion chamber size of 50.3cc. Displacement is 285.47 cubic inches.
 

BruceH

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It would drive me crazy having motor like that just sitting around.

So that's what happened? Lol.

There is a reason for everything. Now I can just wait for a car or truck with a blown motor to show up, lol. Maybe a boat or sand rail? Who knows.

Believe it or not I sometimes get calls from shops looking for blocks or motors. I'm not sure how I'm that well known but it happens. The next time it happens I'll have something for them and at a great price. Lower than a remanufactured long block and it's got forged components.
 

JoshK

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You do love assembling engines don't ya Bruce. I have a lot of fun putting together engines also.
 

BruceH

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You do love assembling engines don't ya Bruce. I have a lot of fun putting together engines also.

I really enjoy it. I'm not too fond of the installing them in the car part though. I wonder what it would take to put this in a 96 F150? My father in law has one with a tired motor. If the sensors are the same it would be a slam dunk. Just lock out the cams. I have a feeling it's more involved, lol.
 
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Subbed.

Quick question Bruce, what over bore size would you suggest for an engine with 30-40k miles on it? I was thinking .020 but would you advise .030?
 

JoshK

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My engine had 43k on it when it was rebuilt. Could have gotten away with a .010 over.
 

BruceH

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Quick question Bruce, what over bore size would you suggest for an engine with 30-40k miles on it? I was thinking .020 but would you advise .030?

First of all I'm just a guy on the internet who has assembled a few mod motors. There are people on this forum who do this for a living and they are very knowledgeable. GB10 is one that comes to mind, Marc S is another. In no way am I an expert so all I can do is give you opinion. In my opinion I'd go with as little as possible.

The reason this motor is .030 over is because the seller wasn't an honest person. When I received the block it had gouges in the cylinder walls that needed .030 to clean up. They also cleaned everything with a power tool. That required decking the block which resulted in the .003" deck height. I also assemble the covers with rtv and the gasket because of the aforementioned power tool.

If you can get away with a stock piston size then do it. If you want pistons in your hands when everything goes to the machine shop then go .020.
 

lethe

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Lots of cool things you could swap this motor into...Or you could turn it into a badass coffee table haha.
 
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My engine had 43k on it when it was rebuilt. Could have gotten away with a .010 over.

First of all I'm just a guy on the internet who has assembled a few mod motors. There are people on this forum who do this for a living and they are very knowledgeable. GB10 is one that comes to mind, Marc S is another. In no way am I an expert so all I can do is give you opinion. In my opinion I'd go with as little as possible.

The reason this motor is .030 over is because the seller wasn't an honest person. When I received the block it had gouges in the cylinder walls that needed .030 to clean up. They also cleaned everything with a power tool. That required decking the block which resulted in the .003" deck height. I also assemble the covers with rtv and the gasket because of the aforementioned power tool.

If you can get away with a stock piston size then do it. If you want pistons in your hands when everything goes to the machine shop then go .020.

Thanks for the info guys!
 

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