onebadgsx's 900+ e85 paxton coyote build

to date on stock motor, e85, paxton, 3.6 pulley i make 614 hp and 520 ft tq. and have run a best of 9.95 at 139 mph.

well i want to go to the next level. so im doing a forged motor build good for 900-1000hp.

so far ive picked up a new 11 block and manley h beam rods with arp 2000 bolts

planning on manley pistons, clevite main and rod bearings.

dont know what routes to go on hardware arp or frpp, head changing kit or arp studs and aftermarket head gaskets, factory oil pump or mmr/cj/tss or others. any other gaskets or hardware needed to build back up motor. i want to use as much as i can from stock motor as it opther has 4k miles on it.

any input??


money spent so far:
block $700
manley h beam with arp 2000 $550
frpp boss crank $242

You doing the work yourself?

Other than machine work, yes

If you are careful when removing the oem gaskets on the timing cover, valve covers and the oil pan cover and not rip them they can all be re used. The head kit from the frpp kit is nice, I used it and all my other gaskets and they were fine and there are no leaks on my engine .. One thing to remember is all the bolts, studs on the main, and the cams are all tty bolts.. they all have to be new ones when re assembling..
I built my engine my self and it really is not hard if you have the torque and clearance specs.. It is also important to gap your top rings for your app, so for boost I would recommend A .035-.037 and the second ring at .10 over whatever your top ring is gapped and leave the bottom oil ring alone.

Keep in mind that the Coyote blocks are failing at around 750rwhp. There are a few threads detailing what's going on.

Are you changing the forced induction for this build?

BruceH said:

Keep in mind that the Coyote blocks are failing at around 750rwhp. There are a few threads detailing what's going on.

Are you changing the forced induction for this build?

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The BLOCKS are failing? like cracked cylinder walls???

UltraKla$$ic said:

The BLOCKS are failing? like cracked cylinder walls???

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Other spots too Ultra.

UltraKla$$ic said:

The BLOCKS are failing? like cracked cylinder walls???

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The pics I've seen have the cylinder broken away from the block in the water jacket. It's enough of an issue that FRPP has made some test blocks with thicker water jacket areas. Beefcake was doing some testing with the new block and IIRC so was JPC.

They have a few threads about it.

There are plenty of blocks holding at 900hp. L&m even claims alot of theae failed blocks are in the tuning. L&m/mmr both say do block mods at 1000.

Plenty of boss, cj's and aluiminators making plenty of power....

onebadgsx said:

There are plenty of blocks holding at 900hp. L&m even claims alot of theae failed blocks are in the tuning. L&m/mmr both say do block mods at 1000.

Plenty of boss, cj's and aluiminators making plenty of power....

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Ok. My post was nothing more than a friendly warning. I'd hate to see someone put a lot of money into a project and not know about the failures.

stang8psi said:

If you are careful when removing the oem gaskets on the timing cover, valve covers and the oil pan cover and not rip them they can all be re used. The head kit from the frpp kit is nice, I used it and all my other gaskets and they were fine and there are no leaks on my engine .. One thing to remember is all the bolts, studs on the main, and the cams are all tty bolts.. they all have to be new ones when re assembling..
I built my engine my self and it really is not hard if you have the torque and clearance specs.. It is also important to gap your top rings for your app, so for boost I would recommend A .035-.037 and the second ring at .10 over whatever your top ring is gapped and leave the bottom oil ring alone.

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So frpp bolts or arp needed?

onebadgsx said:

So frpp bolts or arp needed?

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either.. I chose to do All Frpp bolts on my build.. and frpp 302r head changing kit.. the only arp bolts I did were the rod bolts, and flywheel bolts. I have not heard of anyones motors failing using the frpp bolts on the mains and or heads. Not sure if the frpp hardware is stronger than the oem stuff but its what I chose to use.

TSS oil pump.gears also or ur crazy Lol. I would also have went with i-beams and maybe a coated piston for 900-1000 HP.

Mystickeith50 said:

TSS oil pump.gears also or ur crazy Lol. I would also have went with i-beams and maybe a coated piston for 900-1000 HP.

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I plan to do gears thats what i was asking in my orginal post... there are 3 or 4 different ways to go. Didnt now if 1 was better than other

Mystickeith50 said:

TSS oil pump.gears also or ur crazy Lol. I would also have went with i-beams and maybe a coated piston for 900-1000 HP.

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Have not purchased pistons. Thats the point of the post. Sugestions...

onebadgsx said:

Have not purchased pistons. Thats the point of the post. Sugestions...

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Get the Manley pistons with the side skirts already coated and then take them to Plydyn (Polymer Dynamics) in North Houston and have them do the gold ceramic coating on the tops.

ARP everything and stock head gaskets.

For the oil pump contact TSS in Orange TX

H beams are good for your goals. Past 1000 rwhp the I beams would be better.

UltraKla$$ic said:

The BLOCKS are failing? like cracked cylinder walls???

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Don't worry, you'll never hav an issue.

Furthermore, where the heck u been?

Mystickeith50 said:

TSS oil pump.gears also or ur crazy Lol. I would also have went with i-beams and maybe a coated piston for 900-1000 HP.

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I beams not needed at that level IMO

http://www.jpcracing.com/manley-5-0-coyote-flat-top-pistons-10-0-1/

Planning on these. Ill look into the coating for top of piston. Whats the benefits/gains.

onebadgsx said:

There are plenty of blocks holding at 900hp. L&m even claims alot of theae failed blocks are in the tuning. L&m/mmr both say do block mods at 1000.

Plenty of boss, cj's and aluiminators making plenty of power....

Click to expand...

agree on the tuning.

onebadgsx said:

I plan to do gears thats what i was asking in my orginal post... there are 3 or 4 different ways to go. Didnt now if 1 was better than other



Have not purchased pistons. Thats the point of the post. Sugestions...

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I like the look of the dss.. ive also had good luck with mahle.

onebadgsx said:

There are plenty of blocks holding at 900hp. L&m even claims alot of theae failed blocks are in the tuning. L&m/mmr both say do block mods at 1000.

Plenty of boss, cj's and aluiminators making plenty of power....

Click to expand...

1000 hp at the crank, is not 1000 hp at the wheels though.

What I tell most people is try to keep it around 800 or so rwhp through the auto, a little more on a manual for longevity.

Our first block that went through the cylinder wall we ran for 1 1/2 years. the first year at 700-750 rwhp. With the e85 bumped close to 1000 rwhp. Same tune on the car for about 50 passes on the e85 before she went.

Not saying you can't make more. But I think if your looking an extended time frame, the new frpp block when it's released, or an mmr sleeved, or the like would be a good idea.

as far as oil pumps, the stock oil pump is fine, just add the mmr or the like as far as the gears.

def go arp on all the hardware imo

Like Terry said, have that stock block sleeved.

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-storie...oyote-build-part-1-livernois-3-700-bore-block

After determining the final bore size, spec and order your pistons accordingly.