New build, machined block to accept full thrust bearing

PNR Welding

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New build started, doing some different things

Well as some of you know my thrust washer gave away causing me to loose everything. So I had to give attention to the thrust washer and see what can be done abou that poor design from Ford.
After talking with Boss Bob, I got some good ideas from him that John Mihovetz does. I ordered two sets of main bearings and machined the block to accept a full thrust bearing as shown in the pics. I then drilled a 1/8 hole in the main bulkhead to add oil and cusion the crank thrust.
Its pretty easy to do, just have to be careful. Just put the thrust bearing on that main and mark with a marker where the tit would sit. Then take a dremel and grind down to allow the bearing tit to sit in the block. Then you torque the thrust cap on to spec, (arp 60ftlbs inner, 22ft lbs outter) and drill with a 1/8 drill bit from the bearing to the oil feed hole in the block as pictured. .
I also opened up the passage from the oil pump to the filter. I will start the rest of the build tomorrow and work on it before and after work for the next few weeks.

Everything will be done by me except the torque converter, (from the entire motor to the trans). I have a converter being built for me to handle the power of a 88mm. Since the car is a 90% track car, I will be putting a spragless 9.5" converter. Stall is going to be around 3500-3800.
I stripped everything down to nothing in the engine bay and painted it. Im going to be putting another coat on it this weekend so I will be removing the fender and everything. LOL

photo2.jpg

photo-1.jpg
 
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Kuro!

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Never heard of this, you got some balls drilling into your bulkhead...
 

dysan

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Hopefully it takes care of the issue, but as long as you keep that damn trans fluid cool you probably won't see that issue again.

Looks good!
 

Boomer_Gooner

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Never heard of this, you got some balls drilling into your bulkhead...
A few Terminator guys on ModularFords are currently doing this mod with great success. It's a must if you are running a TH400, Powerglide or 4r70. It helps protect against heavy wear/warping when the converter balloons from what I have read.
 

PNR Welding

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Nice!

88mm? what boost levels are you looking into?

You know me, probably whatever it will make. New goal is to get in the 8s when i get the car legal. At least with the cage and suit!!

[GOOGLE][/GOOGLE]
A few Terminator guys on ModularFords are currently doing this mod with great success. It's a must if you are running a TH400, Powerglide or 4r70. It helps protect against heavy wear/warping when the converter balloons from what I have read.

Its more from converter pressure. Even though i had the top of the line converter in there, antibalooning plates in there, it still caused a issue. Yes i do know of one person on mod fords that did this with a teksid block.
 
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05stroker

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You know me, probably whatever it will make. New goal is to get in the 8s when i get the car legal. At least with the cage and suit!!
Man , it sucks when a 9.66 at 141 gets boring ... LOL!

Good luck with the new setup. I like the new mod on bearing !
 

BossBob

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Did you fully groove the block side bearing so you have 360 degree oiling to the rear main?
 

Kuro!

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There would really be no need to tap the bulkhead with a manual behind it would there? Seems this is to alleviate converter pressure?
 

Born To Run

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Didn't John & i talk to you about this at the NMRA event in Atco.Good luck with the build Paul,hey what happened to a 10.50 car & having some fun!
 

Mach1Marauder

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I'm sorry, but someone seems to be getting a bit bogus or mistaken info here.
Proper converter spacing is key when setting up a PG, TH400, C4 and 4R70W. This is the measurement between the pads of the converter and the flexplate with the converter fully seated in the tranny and pump. Even with this thrust mod, you have to make sure you have this clearance. The clearance varies by converter mfg.

Your best protection of the converter ballooning is not buying cheap azz converters. Cheap converters will still balloon out and kill the thrust bearing and/or tranny.

I'm not saying this to step on toes, just to inform.:beer:
 

PNR Welding

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Think on a 3.5" cold pipe then, at least in the sensor area.

No problem, will do since you are tuning it. :beer:
Did you fully groove the block side bearing so you have 360 degree oiling to the rear main?
Ill definately be doing it. It will need to mimmick the original bearing. And go all the way around.

Very Nice Build! are you going with a 88mm right away?
Not right away, gonna keep the 76mn for now.
There would really be no need to tap the bulkhead with a manual behind it would there? Seems this is to alleviate converter pressure?
Thrust bearing issues are seen with manuals. Me and Mike from L&M were talking about this a few weeks back.

Didn't John & i talk to you about this at the NMRA event in Atco.Good luck with the build Paul,hey what happened to a 10.50 car & having some fun!
Yup, we were talking about this. Did you get that motor in yet? Did you make it to that race?

I'm sorry, but someone seems to be getting a bit bogus or mistaken info here.
Proper converter spacing is key when setting up a PG, TH400, C4 and 4R70W. This is the measurement between the pads of the converter and the flexplate with the converter fully seated in the tranny and pump. Even with this thrust mod, you have to make sure you have this clearance. The clearance varies by converter mfg.

Your best protection of the converter ballooning is not buying cheap azz converters. Cheap converters will still balloon out and kill the thrust bearing and/or tranny.

I'm not saying this to step on toes, just to inform.:beer:

Not sure what you meant by this, but having .165 converter spacing rules this one out on my situation. I agree with the converter balloning, but not in my case either. I am positive that sitting on the converter too long caused this too happen. That and heat!!
First thing we did was measure converter spacing and ended up with over a .125".
 
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PNR Welding

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So with proper spacing spec and a top of the line converter in( antiballoning plates), the problem is elsewhere.
 

Kuro!

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Is your converter ballooning because your on it for to long or what?

And how would you put that much pressure on the thrust bearing with a manual, flywheel expanding or something?
 

BossBob

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Proper converter spacing is key when setting up a PG, TH400, C4 and 4R70W.
Even with proper spacing setup the converter can, and will, balloon if he is on the transbrake too long.

Is your converter ballooning because your on it for to long or what?
Yes

And how would you put that much pressure on the thrust bearing with a manual, flywheel expanding or something?
You won't. Nothing to balloon. You're fine with a manual transmission.
 

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