So better than your normal autozone/OEM pad and I get some fade with my autozone pads when im out having fun. What kind of rotors do you recommend with them?
I've been using the Stoptech slotted rotors, which help some with fade, but may be more prone to pad deposit buildup. Hard to say, really, since I drive the car harder on the track than I used to.
Most street pads have a MOT less than 1000 degrees (Autozone pads are likely quite a lot less than that). They're not really built for repeated hard use. The Stoptech pads are at least decent for that, perhaps better than most street pads (I've not heard of another street pad with as high a MOT).
I should note that my setup is different from yours in two very important aspects. The first is that I have brake ducts. The second is that I have the 14" Brembo brakes. Both will make a significant difference with respect to fade, and allow for a "lesser" pad under conditions that otherwise would demand a better one. In your case, I'd try the Stoptech pads (or something else with an equivalent MOT) and see if that proves sufficient. If it doesn't, then you're only out about $60.
(Sent with Tapatalk, so apologies for the lackluster formatting)
I've been using the Stoptech slotted rotors, which help some with fade, but may be more prone to pad deposit buildup. Hard to say, really, since I drive the car harder on the track than I used to.
Most street pads have a MOT less than 1000 degrees (Autozone pads are likely quite a lot less than that). They're not really built for repeated hard use. The Stoptech pads are at least decent for that, perhaps better than most street pads (I've not heard of another street pad with as high a MOT).
I should note that my setup is different from yours in two very important aspects. The first is that I have brake ducts. The second is that I have the 14" Brembo brakes. Both will make a significant difference with respect to fade, and allow for a "lesser" pad under conditions that otherwise would demand a better one. In your case, I'd try the Stoptech pads (or something else with an equivalent MOT) and see if that proves sufficient. If it doesn't, then you're only out about $60.
(Sent with Tapatalk, so apologies for the lackluster formatting)
I ran a set of cross drilled slotted from R1 with some stop tech pads. they would stop good but I warped after about 8 months mostly as my DD. I now went with Power Stop cross drilled slotted I guess we will see. A recommendation make sure you follow brake in procedure. this makes a big difference in the performance.
I have an extra new set of Power Stop K1380 front cross drilled clotted rotors with pads for sale cheap if you want to try them. lol
I ran a set of cross drilled slotted from R1 with some stop tech pads. they would stop good but I warped after about 8 months mostly as my DD. I now went with Power Stop cross drilled slotted I guess we will see. A recommendation make sure you follow brake in procedure. this makes a big difference in the performance.
I have an extra new set of Power Stop K1380 front cross drilled clotted rotors with pads for sale cheap if you want to try them. lol
I run cross drilled with out issues? I would agree with cheap drilled rotors but if you buy good brands I have not had any issues.
Agreed on these recommendations 100%.What's that other 1% of driving (that isn't DD) look like?
There's probably a suitable Carbotech pad - check their site for selection guidance. FWIW, even their lower-level XP track pads bite at least as well cold as Hawk's HPS. Cold meaning ambient temperatures at least as low as high 30°'s F. Their 1521's and AX6's should be even better (cold).
Norm
Ill probably catch a little slack from the track guys, but I do about 50-50% track/dd and I run stock 14" GT500 rotors and PFC-Z rated pads. They work fantastic and I got over 12 track days on my last set plus about 7,000 miles. I can dive about as deep as most and they don't eat the rotors up.
Why do all high performance vehicles Vette's, Vipers, Etc. come from factory with cross drilled? Why big brake kits like Brembo are cross drilled? I understand your point of structural discontinuities - with fatigue, but wouldn't that suggest to manufacture solid rotors? Even non-cross drilled rotors would have similar issues? I think the more important issue would be cheap sets using cheap materials.
Because bling sells, and it reads good in the advertising copy for your fancy sports car to be equipped with brakes different from what stops your 4-cylinder family sedan.Why do all high performance vehicles Vette's, Vipers, Etc. come from factory with cross drilled? Why big brake kits like Brembo are cross drilled? I understand your point of structural discontinuities - with fatigue, but wouldn't that suggest to manufacture solid rotors? Even non-cross drilled rotors would have similar issues? I think the more important issue would be cheap sets using cheap materials.
Why do all high performance vehicles Vette's, Vipers, Etc. come from factory with cross drilled? Why big brake kits like Brembo are cross drilled? I understand your point of structural discontinuities - with fatigue, but wouldn't that suggest to manufacture solid rotors? Even non-cross drilled rotors would have similar issues? I think the more important issue would be cheap sets using cheap materials.
Why do all high performance vehicles Vette's, Vipers, Etc. come from factory with cross drilled? Why big brake kits like Brembo are cross drilled? I understand your point of structural discontinuities - with fatigue, but wouldn't that suggest to manufacture solid rotors? Even non-cross drilled rotors would have similar issues? I think the more important issue would be cheap sets using cheap materials.
Because people are stupid, and stupid people are attracted to cross drilled rotors. They want to sell cars, and sexy cross drilled rotors draw people in. There is no practical reason for cross drilled or slotted rotors outside of driving your car through a mud bog.