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[Silver11gt]

2011 GT automatic Car is full weight, stock front wheels,drag radials on rear mods are cj intake, frpp cai, pypes or x pipe, gt500 tbody and Brenspeed tune any opinions or advice no suspension work either is this good or do I need another tune. I have a BBR tune that I thought was good but ran fastest on the Bren tune so I'm lost to many tuners and everyone has different opinions

 

[2011/5.0]

Have you sent a datalog to brens
So they can make adjustments

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[Silver11gt]

I tried Brenspeed wouldn't even look at them they said it was good to go lol

 

[stkjock]

you 60' could improve, a converter will make a heck of a difference, LCAs will help as well

 

[Five Oh Brian]

Stock suspension works well with the automatic. Go with a big stall converter. Circle-D 4C, 5C, or have them custom stall a 4E to even higher rpm's.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Neither Brenspeed nor BBR can tune a coyote. So many better options out there.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

All of my research on multiple forums led me to Mike Rousch at Mid Atlantic Performance for my tuning.

 

[Silver11gt]

Would gears help or is it a waste

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Do a converter.

 

[stkjock]

Would gears help or is it a waste

what gears do you have?

 

[Silver11gt]

3.15 thought about 3.31, 3.73,or 4.10 I have access to these sets to try. Just don't know which ones every where I read say keep the stock. And I would love to get a convertor probably the next thing but these gears I can try for a little of my time in labor and that convertor is 1200

 

[stkjock]

3.15s have proven best in Auto's - search this section for posts/threads by "wbt"

 

[wbt]

3.15 with stock intake and 28" tire.
3.31 with Boss or CJ intake and 28" tire.

I wouldn't waste the money on a gear install. Put that towards a Circle D converter, a better tune and some lightweight wheels and tires.

 

[Silver11gt]

I have free gears and I'm a tech so I can install my self so not really out any $ is why I was asking wbt

 

[wbt]

I have free gears and I'm a tech so I can install my self so not really out any $ is why I was asking wbt

Not worth the time spent. I have been 1.4 60' times with 3.31, stock long block, stock intake, stock injectors.

Skip the gear and go converter. If you have access to a lift and the right tools the labor is less than a gear install.

The 6R80 has a 4.17 first gear which negates the need for more rear gear on these cars.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

A big stall converter (go 4500-5000 rpm's) will drop your 1/4 mile ET by 5 tenths and a big & little wheel & tire combo will drop your ET by 2 tenths. There's 7 tenths improvement with two very simple changes.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

Would gears help or is it a waste

There is a very vocal group that says gears are a waste in Coyote Automatics, but 4.10's helped my '14 GT at the dragstrip and they make my car waaaaay more entertaining as a daily driver!

I believe that picking the "best" gears depends on your particular car and the other mods you're pairing them up with. Since your car is NA and you're likely revving it higher than stock with your CJ intake manifold, then I'd suggest more gear for your particular car to get you (and keep you) in the higher rpm's. If you're running a 28" tall drag radial, 3.90's or 4.10's will let you get through the traps at the top of 4th gear in a 1/4 mile. And, if you go with a big stall converter, as well, your car will stay in the powerband even on upshifts. And, if staying at higher rpm's is the plan, a good set of long tube headers would compliment the breathing mods you already have.

There are plenty of Coyotes that work better with stock gears, depending on the other mods and intended use of the car. And, plenty of Coyotes benefit from steeper gears. It all comes down to choosing gears & mods that work in harmony in the same rpm range.

 

[wbt]

Quickest/fastest auto Coyote's run less gear. There are time tested, proven combos that have worked on different cars. Don't make a mistake and spend money twice.

 

[Grabber Blue 5.0]

3.15s have proven best in Auto's - search this section for posts/threads by "wbt"

This

3.15 with stock intake and 28" tire.
3.31 with Boss or CJ intake and 28" tire.

I wouldn't waste the money on a gear install. Put that towards a Circle D converter, a better tune and some lightweight wheels and tires.

Listen to this man here.

There is a very vocal group that says gears are a waste in Coyote Automatics, but 4.10's helped my '14 GT at the dragstrip and they make my car waaaaay more entertaining as a daily driver!

I believe that picking the "best" gears depends on your particular car and the other mods you're pairing them up with. Since your car is NA and you're likely revving it higher than stock with your CJ intake manifold, then I'd suggest more gear for your particular car to get you (and keep you) in the higher rpm's. If you're running a 28" tall drag radial, 3.90's or 4.10's will let you get through the traps at the top of 4th gear in a 1/4 mile. And, if you go with a big stall converter, as well, your car will stay in the powerband even on upshifts. And, if staying at higher rpm's is the plan, a good set of long tube headers would compliment the breathing mods you already have.

There are plenty of Coyotes that work better with stock gears, depending on the other mods and intended use of the car. And, plenty of Coyotes benefit from steeper gears. It all comes down to choosing gears & mods that work in harmony in the same rpm range.

Don't listen to this man. His car is a perfect example of one throwing parts at a car without any rhyme or reason. Many of us have gone much faster than him with less gear and less converter. But he'll have some sort of excuse like he always does.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

Such intolerance from the gear Nazis here, as usual. The NA Coyotes that are quicker than my car are much lighter (lots of weight reduction) and/or have more mods/power. My car is 3800 lbs going down the track and has only a couple of mods. 100% stock engine down to the stock airbox & paper air filter plus 100% stock suspension.

Again, the key to a successful build is in choosing parts that work in harmony together in the same powerband. There are certainly some combinations that work better with less gear, just as some combinations work better with more gear. Don't let anyone tell you that one gear ratio is the only "right" ratio for all combinations.