swflastang05's build thread

[46addict]

Provided that your lean protection module was doing its job, we can rule out lean mixture. What did the plugs look like? Any of them appear different than the others?

 

[swflastang05]

Or sell me your crank! I'm looking for one. Just pm me the info on it!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crank is not for sale, nice try lol

What head gaskets are those? They look stock, are they std 3v gaskets?

Yes OEM 3v gaskets,

Who is doing your machine work for you? Have you contacted Tim at MPR? He is on Boynton Beach and is a Mod Motor Specialist. 561-588-0188

HRE (Hameetman Racing Engines)a local but very good, very high-end shop. They do mostly blown offshore race boat engines, LS and Mod motor stuff. There's also a Pro-mod team that runs out of that shop, a very good one at that. I have no complaints about HRE, thank you very much for the suggestion though!

 

[swflastang05]

Provided that your lean protection module was doing its job, we can rule out lean mixture. What did the plugs look like? Any of them appear different than the others?

I had to bypass the LPM, tuns out it didn't like the trans brake, whenever I tried to leave on the TB it would cut off the ignition / engine, so I had to bypass it. I did check the AFR though just as a crossed the finish line (coincidentally) and saw 11.5 - 11.6 on both banks. Of course if just one injector failed the gauges may not show it, and if the LPM was connected it may not have caught it which may be what happened here.

Here's the plug from #8:


And bearings:

 

[05stroker]

I know you said they are Ford head gaskets, but are they std or overbore gaskets?

 

[swflastang05]

I know you said they are Ford head gaskets, but are they std or overbore gaskets?

STD size.

 

[05stroker]

STD size.

IIRC you are ,030 overbore, are you not concerned about piston to gasket contact? I always use the Ford overbore gaskets. You could have had a gasket failure due to piston contact and then that caused a lean condition in that cylinder. Now, why the entire block split to pcs is what I dont understand. Its not from 20 psi boost, my coolant cap is a 23 psi cap.

 

[weather man]

What was your timing advance at?

 

[swflastang05]

IIRC you are ,030 overbore, are you not concerned about piston to gasket contact? I always use the Ford overbore gaskets. You could have had a gasket failure due to piston contact and then that caused a lean condition in that cylinder. Now, why the entire block split to pcs is what I dont understand. Its not from 20 psi boost, my coolant cap is a 23 psi cap.

The OEM gaskets are 92mm bore, which I believe is the same size as the overbore gaskets you run, although I could be wrong. The .030 over pistons are still less than 91mm, and I don't think they come above the deck so they should be fine. Michael at L&M recommended using the OEM gaskets too, said that's what he uses on all his builds.

What was your timing advance at?

I don't have a data log for that run but on previous runs it maxed out at 25 degrees

 

[swflastang05]

I stopped by my machine shop today and did some show and tell, the consensus there was the cylinder went lean and detonated first, then the block checked out. This is since the spark plug end is gone, he said if the block cracked first the water would have had a cooling effect in the chamber and prevented the plug and piston from melting. This shop does a lot of pro-mod motors, I asked about decelerating with the torque convertor locked up and he said that's extremely hard on the motor, said if I did that with a pro-mod motor all the rods would have instantly blew right through the sides of the block! That's probably why there's some shadowing on that rod bearing.

I was really leaning toward a Boss block, but I was reminded about the crank walking issue (thanks Billy!) so now IDK..

 

[travelers]

I asked about decelerating with the torque convertor locked up and he said that's extremely hard on the motor, said if I did that with a pro-mod motor all the rods would have instantly blew right through the sides of the block! That's probably why there's some shadowing on that rod bearing.

I IDK..

When you said you did that, that's what I thought. My car is tuned by Lund with a 2.3 whipple at 7psi and when I sent him my data logs from a run on the street, when I let off it would go from 11ish right to 14+. So when you had the converter locked up and did engine braking it probable went lean.

The guy that I crew for with the Cuda SS/AH car is stick and he kicks it into neutral then clicks the engine off and brakes it with just the foot brakes from 160 and no chute.

I think the pro-mods use alum. rods which don't like deceleration

 

[swflastang05]

When you said you did that, that's what I thought. My car is tuned by Lund with a 2.3 whipple at 7psi and when I sent him my data logs from a run on the street, when I let off it would go from 11ish right to 14+. So when you had the converter locked up and did engine braking it probable went lean.

The guy that I crew for with the Cuda SS/AH car is stick and he kicks it into neutral then clicks the engine off and brakes it with just the foot brakes from 160 and no chute.

I think the pro-mods use alum. rods which don't like deceleration

That's exactly what my machinist said, the pro-mods (or other high power shit) shift into neutral before lifting to prevent the alum rods from flying away. He said they have lock up convertors too, but if you leave them locked up and lift it's game over. I'm pretty sure everything was fine until I crossed the traps and lifted with the convertor still locked up, it felt like a normal pass then when I lifted I looked in the rearview and saw a smoke screen. I bet that's the culprit.

I just measured all my pistons, and found 2 more that are collapsed plus the #8 one that melted, so if I end up going alum block again I'll need 3 new pistons, I wonder what that would cost, might be better off to buy a new set of 8.

 

[Wes06]

im assuming that includes manuals, should shift to neutral at the top end of the track, and brake from there?

 

[swflastang05]

im assuming that includes manuals, should shift to neutral at the top end of the track, and brake from there?

I would think so, since that would be the same result as having the torque convertor locked up.

 

[o2sys]

Really? I engine brake all the time. Are you saying this is a strain on the engine??

 

[weather man]

That's exactly what my machinist said, the pro-mods (or other high power shit) shift into neutral before lifting to prevent the alum rods from flying away. He said they have lock up convertors too, but if you leave them locked up and lift it's game over. I'm pretty sure everything was fine until I crossed the traps and lifted with the convertor still locked up, it felt like a normal pass then when I lifted I looked in the rearview and saw a smoke screen. I bet that's the culprit.

I just measured all my pistons, and found 2 more that are collapsed plus the #8 one that melted, so if I end up going alum block again I'll need 3 new pistons, I wonder what that would cost, might be better off to buy a new set of 8.

I wouldn't fuck around, I would go with 8 new pistons. I wouldn't trust the rods either.

 

[Wes06]

o2sys, id imagine engine braking for us on the street, just using it to gradually slow down a little, is probably a lot less stress than running max RPM's under full load, and suddenly going from ALL the power, to ALL the vacuum and having all the strain, but in the opposite direction

 

[weather man]

I would also carefully label the injectors and have them flow checked.

I will say I have not seen to many guys doing coatings in the 3V world, but it was dirt common in the powersports world for guys modding motors for big power.

 

[swflastang05]

Really? I engine brake all the time. Are you saying this is a strain on the engine??

Yes, but only with the higher power motors and really leaning on them, just messing around on the street is no biggie.

I wouldn't fuck around, I would go with 8 new pistons. I wouldn't trust the rods either.

I will be ordering a complete new set of 8 pistons, probably the L&M custom set. I just gotta figure out if I'm going to do another alum block or go Boss this time so I know what size to order. I'll have the rods checked, but those are brand fuckin new Pro I-Beam rods, they better still be good!

o2sys, id imagine engine braking for us on the street, just using it to gradually slow down a little, is probably a lot less stress than running max RPM's under full load, and suddenly going from ALL the power, to ALL the vacuum and having all the strain, but in the opposite direction

^^This

I would also carefully label the injectors and have them flow checked.

I will say I have not seen to many guys doing coatings in the 3V world, but it was dirt common in the powersports world for guys modding motors for big power.

I already submitted the service request to ID. New pistons will be coated including the top and skirts.

 

[Sky Render]

I just read your entire thread. (Slow day at work.) I was super stoked when you got the third block together, and now I feel like my favorite super hero just died seeing this.

 

[travelers]

I like your decision on new pistons, rods checked and injectors checked. Now for the big question weight vs. strength...