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Thanks man! I really like the offset pony - I've grown to really like the retro look and it reminds me of a late 60s Mustang. I'll probably do a small chin spoiler, too - just haven't pulled the trigger yet.

Really? I tried it in a bunch of different spots - ended up liking it best there. It's hard to get totally centered, since there are mounting tabs on the edges and they don't line up perfectly with the honeycomb in the grill.

...after 4 1/2 years of owning the car. LOL I think the new look is subtle but greatly improved.

Finally doing some 'appearance' stuff to my GT after owning it almost 5 years- new grill, chrome FR500s, and 555s. Have a new grill emblem on the way, too. Should show up today.

Sounds like they forgot to ship the brackets - it's supposed to come with them. They forgot when I bought mine and had to ship the brackets separate (among a bunch of other screw ups with my order, too).

If you want it to leave hard at all, you'll want 4.10+ gears. Centri blowers need a lot of RPM to get into boost.

I've gotten caught in heavy rain with 275/50/15 ET Street Radials on the car and the car was surprisingly OK. I got caught once with bias-ply 10.5x26x16 ET Streets once and it was HORRIBLE...constant fish tailing at anything over like 20 MPH. Real dangerous. Honestly the ET Street Radials are...

Just read through the entire thread...street racing in traffic is incredibly dangerous, and anyone posting videos of it should be chastised. That said, I have to say that Shep comes across as the biggest douche in the thread though.

Awesome clean cars. Great pics.

For what it's worth, my TCI input shaft has held up to a solid year of abuse now. I don't make nearly as much power as the guys who've broken them do, though. For the extra $100 it's probably worth getting the Level 10 piece. I was in a rush to get the car back up and bought the TCI one without...

^You're losing some low and mid-range power, though. With the difference in intake velocity/flow, you're able to command significantly higher ignition timing at a bunch of points throughout the band where the IMRC's are closed. You're in a lower velocity/higher flow situation- which can result...

Eh? My Innovate setup has been working fine for a long, long time...not exactly hard to remove an O2 sensor once in a while either.

I disagree - at least about the turbo part. Most of the turbo setups for 3Vs spool VERY fast and make a ton of low and mid range torque. They also seem to destroy stock rods, even at relatively low boost, at at least the same rate (if not more) then positive displacement blower setups do. I do...

Guess you found the reason for the low boost #. Good luck. Hope you get it worked out.

Yep, first thing I figured was pump whine. Glad it's fixed.

Good grief. Go to the track. Get videos. Please.

I disagree- your trap speeds were also down at every marker on the PRP timeslip vs the slip you posted from Louisiana. Lower trap speeds indicate that your car was making less power (probably due to the shitty air). Less power = worse 60'.

-800 DA...can't be that slow. I've been racing at PRP for over a decade and have only seen negative DA once, and it lasted for about an hour. LOL

I can't see how over filling the transmission would cause the converter to stall early. It's probably the air here - Pittsburgh Raceway Park is a pretty slow track compared to the national average. Last night was pretty humid too. Even with stock 3.31 gear, my 5R55S car went from 1.83 60's to...

Agreed, dudes question wasn't THAT bad. It's worlds better then the fucking dry nitrous thread. Lol

You are very skilled. Great job! Love DIY stuff like this.

That's a really good sign.

I honestly think you'll be OK, short term. MAF transfer will definitely be way off, but staying out of the gas pedal, combined with fuel trims and the added protection of pretty effective factory knock sensors and I think you'll be alright. Worst you'll do in my estimation is put some extra...

This - by far the easiest way to add switched power sources cleanly. Here's a diagram that I've used a bunch of times: http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/2009/06/06/2005-ford-mustang-passenger-compartment-fuse-panel-and-relay-table/

AFR between 14.x-16.x is fine for cruising. Like the others said, it pretty much has to be an ignition timing thing. I'd scan it with LiveLink in a variety of conditions and see what your timing is at during normal driving situations.