12.2 @ 117, dissapointed.

STANMAN

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Hi all. That is the best time I have run so far. Car makes 470/440 with a Saleen. As far as suspension/traction I have the following: 4.10's, M/T 305/45/18 out back, 274/40/18 in front (I know, not helping), Centerforce dual friction clutch, Fidanza Al. flywheel, Al. driveshaft, Tokico D specs (full hard in front, full soft in back when racing), Steeda Ultralight lowering springs (I know, also not helping), Detroit Tru-Trac carrier, Moser Axels, BMR panhard, LCA, and UCA, along with LCA relocation brackets, sub frame connectors (welded in), with no weight reduction. My 60' is around 1.8ish. The clutch combo is like an on/off switch, so I don't ride the clutch at launch, and I don't powershift. Is this about the best I can expect, I mean I can't launch at over 3K without burning the tires off. I would think that even though I am not running an "optimum" drag set up (the car is more of a street race car to be honest), I still think I should be able to run better times. Please discuss.
 

terry5357

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When you get the 60' lower your ET will also drop......you got a lot of nice suspension mods there though........probably a small tweak somewhere and when you find it, you will be "on like a chicken bone"...........lol
 

stkjock

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Stan - you should be able to do better, IMO, I run a 265/40 tire and have pulled 1.6 60's, also lowered and similar suspension mods, I have to believe my car weighs more as well. My best ET is 11.73 @ 119. I do launch the car at 4700 or so RPM and dump the clutch.

I've seen those tires hook off the line with more powerful cars, they should be good, so my first question is..... how long of a burnout are you doing?

certainly power shifting will help some on the ET.

Do you have any video of the runs?
 

STANMAN

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I don't do John Force burnouts like I had to with my Nitto's, but I thought with the M/T's you didn't have to? On the street the car is a killer, it seems like it hooks better on the street than at the track, without burnouts, and with a street setting on the D specs. Weird right?
 

stkjock

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how many MPH do you see when your doing the burnout and for how long?

I learned from many on this site that you need 50-55 MPH for 3-4 seconds and good smoke for a proper burnout. I usually do a bit longer on the first pass of the day and then 3-4 seconds. Here's an example







is the car squatting hard? video would really help
 

STANMAN

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how many MPH do you see when your doing the burnout and for how long?

I learned from many on this site that you need 50-55 MPH for 3-4 seconds and good smoke for a proper burnout. I usually do a bit longer on the first pass of the day and then 3-4 seconds. Here's an example







is the car squatting hard? video would really help


I don't have video unfortunatly. But yeah I do a good 2nd gear burnout, I probably hold it longer than 3-4 seconds. I set the tire pressure around 15lbs.
 

STANMAN

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And there's a waterbox at my track. I am wondering if I still have water coming down off the wheelwells and that could be my issue?
 

terry5357

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Do you spin to get the tires wet in the waterbox, pull out of the water box and then do your burnout. If you are burning in the waterbox that may be your problem
 

stkjock

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I don't have video unfortunatly. But yeah I do a good 2nd gear burnout, I probably hold it longer than 3-4 seconds. I set the tire pressure around 15lbs.

well that sounds spot on

And there's a waterbox at my track. I am wondering if I still have water coming down off the wheel
wells and that could be my issue?

could be, however I've had the same instance driving thru a water box and it has not seemed to be an issue.
 

Vapour Trails

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, Tokico D specs (full hard in front, full soft in back when racing), .

Those shock settings are opposite to the correct settings. You should use a soft setting in front and hard in the rear.

The soft setting up front will allow the front to rise, transfering weight to the rear. The harder setting out back will help resist compression of the springs, putting more load on the tire. Try 7 turns out front, and 0-3 turns out rear.
 
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stkjock

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thanks Vapor, I dont have adjustables so I wasn't sure and didn't comment
 

Steedman07

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Hi all. That is the best time I have run so far. Car makes 470/440 with a Saleen. As far as suspension/traction I have the following: 4.10's, M/T 305/45/18 out back, 274/40/18 in front (I know, not helping), Centerforce dual friction clutch, Fidanza Al. flywheel, Al. driveshaft, Tokico D specs (full hard in front, full soft in back when racing), Steeda Ultralight lowering springs (I know, also not helping), Detroit Tru-Trac carrier, Moser Axels, BMR panhard, LCA, and UCA, along with LCA relocation brackets, sub frame connectors (welded in), with no weight reduction. My 60' is around 1.8ish. The clutch combo is like an on/off switch, so I don't ride the clutch at launch, and I don't powershift. Is this about the best I can expect, I mean I can't launch at over 3K without burning the tires off. I would think that even though I am not running an "optimum" drag set up (the car is more of a street race car to be honest), I still think I should be able to run better times. Please discuss.

Im no expert, but something doesnt seem right. Does it feel like its pulling timing towards the end of your run? I ran a 12.19 @116 with a 2.03 60 ft.(its crappy, IM not bragging trust me) You should be in the 11's with ease with that 60 ft. and even with the 117 mph. the 12.2 doesnt sound right..was your 470 rear wheel power on a dynojet?
 

chad05gt

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Seat time, powershift, and possibly some tuning issues... trap speed is low for your power.

You'll be there soon enough; remember... THIS is the fun part :beerchug2:
 

Boss281

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Those shock settings are opposite to the correct settings. You should use a soft setting in front and hard in the rear.

The soft setting up front will allow the front to rise, transfering weight to the rear. The harder setting out back will help resist compression of the springs, putting more load on the tire. Try 7 turns out front, and 0-3 turns out rear.

^What he said. Beat me to it... The only thing I'd add is try the above shock settings, then experiment with tire pressure. My guess is a 15-16lb setting might be a good place to start...
 

STANMAN

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Im no expert, but something doesnt seem right. Does it feel like its pulling timing towards the end of your run? I ran a 12.19 @116 with a 2.03 60 ft.(its crappy, IM not bragging trust me) You should be in the 11's with ease with that 60 ft. and even with the 117 mph. the 12.2 doesnt sound right..was your 470 rear wheel power on a dynojet?


Yes, a dynojet. Tuned by Brenspeed, which is one of the tops in the country in my eyes, they have been very good to me. No loss of power, I am just hitting the rev limiter in 4th as I cross the line.
 

Steedman07

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Yes, a dynojet. Tuned by Brenspeed, which is one of the tops in the country in my eyes, they have been very good to me. No loss of power, I am just hitting the rev limiter in 4th as I cross the line.

Whats the rev limit set to?
 

STANMAN

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Those shock settings are opposite to the correct settings. You should use a soft setting in front and hard in the rear.

The soft setting up front will allow the front to rise, transfering weight to the rear. The harder setting out back will help resist compression of the springs, putting more load on the tire. Try 7 turns out front, and 0-3 turns out rear.


That's actually how I started when I first got the Dspecs, then people said that you should go full hard in the front, soft in the rear so the rear can squat, lol. There seems to be differning opinions on this subject from what I have read. I have tried it the opposite way last year, but with Nittos, and they never hooked no matter what I did. Perhaps when I try it with the M/T's the results will be better.
 

joedls

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I am just hitting the rev limiter in 4th as I cross the line.

I think you're clutch is slipping. No way you should be hitting the rev limiter in 4th gear with those tires at 117 MPH. You should be turning ~5600 RPM at that speed with those tires.

Also, your D-specs are the opposite of what they should be, as stated above.
 

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