golkhl
forum member
After getting my car dyno tuned locally early this year(440 rwhp 396 rwt on a dynojet), my car refused to shift at high rpms. The dreaded 3650 lock out. Previously installed: poly motor mounts, che k-member brace with torque limiters, 1 piece aluminum driveshaft, gen 3 mgw shifter, mcleoud clutch line. Finally got around to installing the 2013-14 GT 500 clutch master cylinder that has been collecting dust for way too long.
Do youself a favor and remove the drivers seat(be careful with removal and reinstall, the seat brackets are sharp, and took two small chunks out of my sill plate).
Under the dash, you will have limited access to the 4 nuts, 2 bolts and various electrical connectors. Not fun, but do able with extensions and a u-joint socket.
Be ready to make a mess when you disconnect the the clutch master, have plenty of shop towels ready to go, also have a vacuum cap for the brake master cylinder nipple(I did not initally, and it made a huge mess). Also try not to lose the clutch line clip, you might need it later(I did).
With pedal assembly removed, swap out the clutch masters.
Removal took me about an hour. Clutch master swap, clutch pedal cover swap, losing the clutch line clip, fml!, a short break and re-install took about two hours.
Used my Motive vacuum bleeder to bleed the master. As always, I have the misfortune of the cap blowing off, spraying brake fluid everywhere and me going into oh shit mode trying to clean it all up asap. After extensive clean up.
Pumped the clutch pedal 20 times and took it for a test drive. During a quick 10 mile test drive the high rpm lockout condition was much improved. Also did a few standing starts and shifting at 6k and the car is fun to drive again!
Still need to put more miles on it and see how this mod plays out. Pics to come.
Do youself a favor and remove the drivers seat(be careful with removal and reinstall, the seat brackets are sharp, and took two small chunks out of my sill plate).
Under the dash, you will have limited access to the 4 nuts, 2 bolts and various electrical connectors. Not fun, but do able with extensions and a u-joint socket.
Be ready to make a mess when you disconnect the the clutch master, have plenty of shop towels ready to go, also have a vacuum cap for the brake master cylinder nipple(I did not initally, and it made a huge mess). Also try not to lose the clutch line clip, you might need it later(I did).
With pedal assembly removed, swap out the clutch masters.
Removal took me about an hour. Clutch master swap, clutch pedal cover swap, losing the clutch line clip, fml!, a short break and re-install took about two hours.
Used my Motive vacuum bleeder to bleed the master. As always, I have the misfortune of the cap blowing off, spraying brake fluid everywhere and me going into oh shit mode trying to clean it all up asap. After extensive clean up.
Pumped the clutch pedal 20 times and took it for a test drive. During a quick 10 mile test drive the high rpm lockout condition was much improved. Also did a few standing starts and shifting at 6k and the car is fun to drive again!
Still need to put more miles on it and see how this mod plays out. Pics to come.
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