2011 Mustang GT track log

[neema]

Got a little time to mess with spacers a little more. I can get the 18x12 medium pad Welds to "fit" with 18mm of spacers (had to dig up a little 3mm one) and this is what clearances look like.

Here's what the 11.5 et 34 looked like inboard

And here's an effective 18x12 et38 (et56 with 18mm of spacers)

It looks fine with the 305s currently on the car, but the wheel sits pretty close to the strut (~2mm of clearance maybe?). A tire with a rim protector may rub a little, but a 325 (or conti 320s) should be able to fit with a little fender pull.

 

[BMR Tech]

neema, PM incoming!

 

[neema]

Unfortunately my posts are too old to edit, but I've found out that the front 18x11.5 wheels sent to me had the wrong offset. Must have been confusion either at Weld or from the vendor I purchased them from. Instead of et34 wheels, they're et22(!) wheels. Shame on me for not catching it when they arrived. I must have been too excited. Crazy to think that they didn't rub, but it's still too low of an offset.

I ordered a set of Forgestar CF5s in the correct offsets (18x12 et38 and et58) and will sell the Welds. The CF5s will let me go back to the 380mm Stoptechs--cool. Hopefully I can sell the front Welds to New Edge/Cobra or 370z owners. Rear wheels will work on s197s with bump stop brackets trimmed.

Haven't driven the car much since last July because of work, but I'll be getting it up and running again. The battery died, so I got a East Penn/Deka/Big Crank ETX20L (similar to Braille B2015) and mocked up this mount that I need to somehow make:

Comparison of stock battery weight to the East Penn/Deka/Big Crank.

 

[SlowJim]

You can easily trim down the "hump" in the stock battery tray to allow your ETX20L to sit in the stock location. It will even end up about 2" lower for that hella CG reduction.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=118859

 

[neema]

You can easily trim down the "hump" in the stock battery tray to allow your ETX20L to sit in the stock location. It will even end up about 2" lower for that hella CG reduction.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=118859

Lol, that write-up is hilarious... and way less headache than machining something. I'll give that a shot

thanks for the tip!

 

[ArizonaGT]

You can easily trim down the "hump" in the stock battery tray to allow your ETX20L to sit in the stock location. It will even end up about 2" lower for that hella CG reduction.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=118859

Excellent, timely info there.

 

[SlowJim]

I aim to please

 

[LS1EATINPONY]

Unfortunately my posts are too old to edit, but I've found out that the front 18x11.5 wheels sent to me had the wrong offset. Must have been confusion either at Weld or from the vendor I purchased them from. Instead of et34 wheels, they're et22(!) wheels. Shame on me for not catching it when they arrived. I must have been too excited. Crazy to think that they didn't rub, but it's still too low of an offset.

I ordered a set of Forgestar CF5s in the correct offsets (18x12 et38 and et58) and will sell the Welds. The CF5s will let me go back to the 380mm Stoptechs--cool. Hopefully I can sell the front Welds to New Edge/Cobra or 370z owners. Rear wheels will work on s197s with bump stop brackets trimmed.

Ill have to do some measuring. These might work on my fox after flares are added.

 

[neema]

Ill have to do some measuring. These might work on my fox after flares are added.

Let me know. 11.5/12s would be badass on a fox.

 

[ArizonaGT]

Put a cage in it already

 

[neema]

Well, that was easy.

 

[ArizonaGT]

Excellent.

 

[2013MustangGT]

@neema

What's all of the black stuff (NVH) doing on the fire wall?

 

[neema]

Err, I dunno. Should it come off? #becauseinbetweencar?

 

[Lucky_13]

Neema, great thread! When you get a minute, could you fill us in on how you feel about the Cortex JRi setup? It's hard to find a good review out there, and I'm on the verge of swapping my KW V3s for them (prog rate no bueno as I've started tracking).

 

[neema]

I wish I could say I've been flogging the car as of late but it's been in hibernation for months. I've been chipping away at a big chore list and hope to have it up and running this month. I haven't been more anxious and excited to drive it.

A few comments I have on cortex JRi suspension:
-the front struts add a ton of room; you can easily run square, rotatable 18x11s with either no spacers or >5mm of spacers depending on tire choice. I'm giving square 18x12s (non rotatable) a stab and it should work under stock sheet metal
-the double adjustable shock adjustments aren't the easiest to use (unlike the single adjustable version) but then again once you figure out your settings, you're rarely changing them
-if I could do it again, I would buy cortex front struts and maximum Motorsports rear shocks. I've divorced my rear coilovers and flipped them upside down to give more inboard room anyways. the MM JRi rear shock would be simpler to install and adjust. the valving between the two may not be "optimal"

 

[TheViking]

-if I could do it again, I would buy cortex front struts and maximum Motorsports rear shocks. I've divorced my rear coilovers and flipped them upside down to give more inboard room anyways. the MM JRi rear shock would be simpler to install and adjust. the valving between the two may not be "optimal"

What advantage do you see with the Cortex JRi fronts vs the MM coilover setup?

 

[neema]

What advantage do you see with the Cortex JRi fronts vs the MM coilover setup?

Cortex offset struts provide significantly more inboard clearance for wide wheels/tires and the ability to rotate wheels all around (opposed to, say, 18x11s with different offsets front and rear).

 

[csamsh]

Cortex offset struts provide significantly more inboard clearance for wide wheels/tires and the ability to rotate wheels all around (opposed to, say, 18x11s with different offsets front and rear).

Do you notice any adverse effects from what must be a changed kingpin inclination?

 

[Norm Peterson]

Steering axis stays the same, as this is defined by the upper strut mount's effective center of rotation and the ball joint. For steering axis purposes, the shape of the stuff in between is irrelevant geometrically much like it doesn't matter geometrically what control arms/links/PHBs/etc., are shaped like. What happens to forces, moments, stresses, stiffnesses, and deflections is a different story.

The geometric things that do change slightly are the construction for the FVSA and ultimately the front geo roll center. Since the strut axis does change a little, the construction line through the upper mount's center of rotation - which must be perpendicular to the strut's own axis regardless of the SAI's direction - also changes. A strut design offering more wheel clearance by having its body moved inward at the knuckle attachment should be producing a longer FVSA and a lower geo-RC.


Norm