2011 With some Chemical Muscle

blacks197

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I'd guess 125 shot. That about the same increase in hp I got on the 125 jets


Sent from my Mind using the Darkside of the Swartz
 

Seer

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looks about right, as it was about 30hp/30tq less than I made with a 150 on the dyno.
 

Nitro Dave

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looks about right, as it was about 30hp/30tq less than I made with a 150 on the dyno.

Yea I think there was an area of improvement to be made in the mail order tune. They were also pulling alot of timing. The plugs were telling me it needed more timing.
Dave
 

Seer

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Yea I think there was an area of improvement to be made in the mail order tune. They were also pulling alot of timing. The plugs were telling me it needed more timing.
Dave

I agree, my mail order tune is rather safe too.
 

onebadgsx

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with yalls w.o.t. controller, does it act goofey like the zex one. my zex will actually kick in before im w.o.t., like at half throttle. zex tech support blames the ford throttle body/tuning. sounds like b.s. to me. looking for a better w.o.t. switch and noids, that will activate properly.
 

Seer

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with yalls w.o.t. controller, does it act goofey like the zex one. my zex will actually kick in before im w.o.t., like at half throttle. zex tech support blames the ford throttle body/tuning. sounds like b.s. to me. looking for a better w.o.t. switch and noids, that will activate properly.

mine kicks in at WOT
 

gtmiller1001

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with yalls w.o.t. controller, does it act goofey like the zex one. my zex will actually kick in before im w.o.t., like at half throttle. zex tech support blames the ford throttle body/tuning. sounds like b.s. to me. looking for a better w.o.t. switch and noids, that will activate properly.

Mine works great.

What wire are you using at the TB for the WOT signal?

The falling voltage, brown wire is what I have found works best. Talked to Seer about his and he is also using this wire.

I originally tried the green/violet wire which is rising voltage. It didn't max out until pretty close to WOT, but it was definitely before.

Chuck at Evo Performance wrote up about this same thing and how using the falling voltage wire would be best for a WOT signal.

The thing I love about the Nitrous Outlet controller is how user friendly it is. I haven't used any others so I'm not sure if they all do the same stuff. But the NO controller lets you see what RPM it is reading to make sure you're getting the correct tach signal, look at your WOT signal voltage to make sure you're only getting there at WOT, etc. Also, it will allow you to use either a falling voltage signal or rising voltage signal for the WOT trigger.
 

BPatterson

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I'm still piecing my hardline plate kit together, but I'm trying to read and learn as much as I can. I still need plugs, nitrous feed line from the bottle, wiring, and am considering a progressive controller. I already have and MSD window switch.
 

Seer

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You made 580whp/600wtq on your nitrous setup?
586hp/609tq

Then I had a solenoid issue and it no longer flowed properly. Flow tests were about half of what they should have been after I had that issue. Car probably could have made more power if it had more power if I increased the timing to compensate for the lack of flow I was seeing afterwards.


Basically after by issues the car would 60' in the 1.4s but wouldn't trap worth a damn. Myself and experts all say it was a solenoid issue cutting in and out and only flowing half of what it should be. Sucks to never get a clean pass with it.
 
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blackgt87

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What was the issue with the solenoid? Odd that it worked on the dyno then not at the track.

You put 12v to them and they open, take it away the spring closes them. I would think it was a power/ground issue.
 

Nitro Dave

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I'm still piecing my hardline plate kit together, but I'm trying to read and learn as much as I can. I still need plugs, nitrous feed line from the bottle, wiring, and am considering a progressive controller. I already have and MSD window switch.

I would ditch the MSD windowswitch and get a better controller that has the windowswitch and tps activation all in one. You can also get a progressive that has those options as well to help aid with power management and traction. If I can answer any questions please let me know.

Dave
 

Nitro Dave

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586hp/609tq

Then I had a solenoid issue and it no longer flowed properly. Flow tests were about half of what they should have been after I had that issue. Car probably could have made more power if it had more power if I increased the timing to compensate for the lack of flow I was seeing afterwards.


Basically after by issues the car would 60' in the 1.4s but wouldn't trap worth a damn. Myself and experts all say it was a solenoid issue cutting in and out and only flowing half of what it should be. Sucks to never get a clean pass with it.

I sure wish you would have had our system on the car so you would have had a better experience...

Dave
 

Nitro Dave

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What was the issue with the solenoid? Odd that it worked on the dyno then not at the track.

You put 12v to them and they open, take it away the spring closes them. I would think it was a power/ground issue.

While wiring and wire gauge size is important in order for a solenoid to work properly there is also big differences in solenoid designs and quality that the average user does not understand. To many people think a solenoid is a solenoid.

Dave
 

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